Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with.
Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.
Things we learned:
1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.
2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).
3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.
4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.
Other tips.
Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.
Picture notes:
Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").
Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
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From the manufacturer
About us
On October 6, 1958, a Pennsylvania corporation was formed and was called Corrosion Reaction Consultants. The company began making and selling “CRC Corrosion Inhibitor” – a multi-purpose corrosion inhibitor/lubricant that with later modifications, developed into CRC 5.56.
The first CRC product came to New Zealand in 1961 as an agency line and was sold to the automotive and electrical trades.
In 1973 CRC Chemicals NZ was formed based in Wellington. In 1974 the New Zealand operation was moved to Auckland and by late 1974 small warehouses were set up in Wellington and Christchurch.
Reviews with images
Worked well giving an etched look
Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with.Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.Things we learned:1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.Other tips.Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.Picture notes:Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
Top reviews from the United States
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Reviewed in the United States on May 10, 2022
Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
Overall experience: Worked well and gave a finish I was happy with.
Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.
Things we learned:
1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.
2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).
3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.
4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.
Other tips.
Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.
Picture notes:
Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").
Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
Used this to engrave flasks as a gift for cast members of a show.
Things we learned:
1. 2 coats really is necessary to get a darker finish. It dries quickly though and you can prep multiple items at one time and just have them staged/prepped for the laser.
2. Each laser is different, so I can't really give you suggestions on speed/power levels. Do some practice burns on the product you're going to use. We had to figure out a power level that etched the flasks without warping the finished product (cheap thin-walled flasks).
3. Cleanup. A spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol works great. Spray it, then use a paper towel to wipe the moly off initially. Follow up with another light mist and a cloth shop towel. Rinse with water and double check the product for any remaining moly. Spray isopropyl on a paper towel and cleanup any missed spots of moly.
4. Finish: This will not give you a clean black finish like like laser bond spray. Instead it will give you an etched-looking dark grey finish. I actually liked this better than the laser bond as it looks more etched vs. looking like a acrylic wrap on the flasks.
Other tips.
Build a jig either on your laser bed or on some scrap wood if you're going to have to create your product in mass.
Picture notes:
Dark grey flask is an early prototype. This shows 2 coats of moly but we burned it too long and warped the flask (see the bending around the word "Syrup").
Silver flask is after clean up but there was still some moly on the flask to the left of elf. A 2nd pass with isopropyl alcohol polished it up. We hollowed out the text to reduce the amount of focused burn on that part of the flask to reduce the amount of warping (it significantly improved the end result). We reduced the power and increased the speed significantly for the final product.
Images in this review
Reviewed in the United States on December 4, 2023
Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
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Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
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Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
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Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
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Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
Reviewed in the United States on September 28, 2023
Size: Original VersionStyle: Dry Moly LubeVerified Purchase
