Shaking on braking at higher speeds

So my new to me DC does this dumb thing; at highway speeds if I hit the brakes hard at all, it shakes/shimmies pretty bad. Definitely feels like it’s coming from the rear but it’s enough to make the steering wheel shake some.

Doesn’t do it at lower speeds, drives smooth, accelerates smooth. Feels like it would when you have warped rotors but the dealer I got it from has paperwork that they replaced all 4 corners. I’ll tale a look at the rotors when I get home, maybe they only did pads.

Any ideas?

 

Sounds like rotors specially if only vibration when braking

 

That was my initial thought too.

Just checked the rear rotors and they’re definitely new, can still see the cross hatch on them lol. New pads too. It’s strange. I’ve never had a set of rotors come warped from the factory, but anything’s possible I suppose.

 

How many miles since you bought the truck

 

2-300. Dunno if it’s done it since I owned it, I just noticed it tonight when I had to brake harder at highway speed.

The TPMS light gives me fits too, randomly blinking, sometimes staying on, sometimes going off. Pressures are good, figured I’d address that when I get new wheels/tires when I lift it haha.

 

I would take back to the dealer specially if you bought at Toyota dealer

 

Would also ask for what was done when they did the inspection

 

Warped rotors.

 

Also check for wheel balance or warped wheels..

 

Was a Chevy dealer lolz. Think I have some paperwork they gave me with what they did. The previous owner worked for Toyota. Not that that means much, but it seems it was well taken care of.

 

I thought about that too, but it drives so smooth I kinda ruled it out. Would not hurt to have Discount Tire verify wheel balance though.

 

Can still see cross hatch on the rotors though. But that was my initial thought as well.

 

They can get heated up and warp before the cross hatch is gone.

I went through deals gap in my old F150 several years ago about a month after I bought it. I did take it harder than I should have with a bike on a trailer, but the rotors were warped with 2500 miles on a brand new truck.

If it shutters when you hit the breaks; it’s what the breaks are catching or how the breaks are catching. More likely what they are catching.

Warper rotors.

 

Good info! I wonder if it’s more cost efficient to have them turned since they’re so new or just say eff it and grab a new pair. Lol.

 

During hard braking if you feel it in the steering wheel, front rotors are warped, if you feel it in the pedal, rear rotors are warped...feel it in both, you car's jacked up.

 

Just my opinion; Replace them.

I work in steel. Metal holds a standard within its molecular structure. If it’s warped, it has a weakness that allows a deformation when hot that allows it to expand or holds it tighter. If it’s weak or strong now, it will be weak or strong at its base after it’s turned down.

It’s within the steel.

 

I suggest trying the break-in procedure all over again. It was probably never performed. I like to do something like, three fast stops from 35 to 10 mph. Then from say, 45 or 50 down to 20 about as hard as I can 3-5 times Then bring it home and park it. Let the brakes completely cool off before driving again. What you are doing, is leaving some pad material on the rotors so that they will stop evenly. It’s worth a shot to try.

 

Think I found the source. Looks like the slide pins weren’t greased up properly or the caliper is sticking. This was the driver’s side pads. Also found out the e-brake was never adjusted. Are these auto adjust in the rear? Or do you need to set them first? No e-brake pressure.

 

Front pads?

 

Rears, sorry.

 

Looked at the service manual for e-brake adjustment. Easy peasy.

1. Put rotor on, e-brake not engaged at the pedal.
2. Install lug nuts to keep rotor centered.
3. Move the adjuster wheel (thru hole in rotor, with a screwdriver) UP (looking at the rear of the wheel, that’s clockwise).
4. Lock the shoes out, and move the adjuster back DOWN 8 notches).
5. Install remaining brakes/wheel.
6. Check pedal operation, should engage at 6-9 clicks. If not, adjust cable under truck where the one e-brake cable goes into 2. Re-test; shooting for that 6-9 click engagement.

 

Not always. My steering wheel shook pretty bad when slowing down from high speeds. Noticed the rear rotor looked pretty messed up so I put new pads and rotors on the back and it went away.

 

Yeah. USUALLY that’s the rule of thumb; if your steering wheel shakes it’s the fronts. But when it feels like it’s coming from your ass, and THEN the steering wheel shakes, it’s usually the rear end. Lol.

 

UPDATE: After seeing the drivers side brake pads above, I opted to clean the slide pins on both calipers really well and regrease them. Replaced the pads on both sides (even though they were newww), and set the e-brake shoes the correct way.

No more shaking!! At least for now. Downside is, I found out that the e-brake cable needs to be adjusted where they both connect to the pedal cable. Didn’t bother with that right now because my ToyTec lift should be here in a week or two and I’ll have to extend them anyways.

 

I'm having the same issue. What did you use to grease the pins?

 

Standard brake component grease. Can be found at any auto store. I cleaned the slide pins with brake clean, and took a wire wheel on a drill to them to knock down any standing rust. Also cleaned out the holes in the caliper bracket where they go, lightly sanded those out, and cleaned it with brake clean again. That’s typically what I do on every brake job, just keeps things lasting for longer and operating correctly.

 

High temp wheel bearing grease will work well too, but the brake component grease tends to stick around a bit longer.

 

https://www.autozone.com/brake-and-...can-grease-stick-brake-lubricant-4oz/752442_0