Torque Wrench, NO CLUE?

Hello all,

My younger years I just tightened everything by feel, now they have all this Torque stuff and I have no clue how to read or use this Torque Tool I bought below!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Any advice or input would be greatly appreciated!



Need your brain power, I just bought a N-fab step bar and installed it but it said to torque to

1. Torque each bolt location to 15ft/lbs.
   

I have a TRD dual exhaust coming and the instructions says to

1. (b) Remove OE heat shield and replace with TRD heat shield using OE bolts to secure. Torque: Min. 4.0 lbs-ft (5.5 N-m),
   
   Max. 9.0 lbs-ft (12.5.0 N-m)
   

c) Install the M8 nut on the bolt. Make sure the hole and bolt are centered. Then tighten the nut to 26 ±3 lbs-ft (35 ± 4 N-m) of torque. Confirm the bracket around the nut is flush to the frame rail. (Fig. 5-2)

1. (e) Tighten the OE bolts to 35 ± 5 lbs-ft (48 ± 6 N-m) of torque. (14mm deep socket)
   (Fig. 6-3)
   

(c) Tighten bolts evenly. Tighten to 35±5 lb-ft (48±6 N-m) of torque. (Fig. 7-3)

1. (b) Align the LH tailpipe with the LH outlet pipe on the muffler and install nuts and bolts. While tightening the bolts, set a gap of 30±5 mm between the exhaust tip and the rear side panel (Fig. 7-2).
   
   
2. (c) Tighten bolts evenly. Tighten to 35±5 lb-ft (48±6 N-m) of torque. (Fig. 8-2)
   

The check list says

Inspection torque – muffler to converter assembly.

Inspection torque – tailpipe assembly to muffler outlet connection.

Inspection torque – heat shield Inspection torque – LH tailpipe bracket


35 ± 5 lb-ft (48 ± 6 N-m) of torque
35 ± 5 lb-ft (48 ± 6 N-m) of torque
6.5 ± 2.5 lb-ft (9 ± 3.5 N-m) of torque
24 ±5 lbs-ft (32 ± 6 N-m) of torque


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

Did you receive the torque wrench yet? It's super easy. On your handle you should have a bunch of numbers. They will all be in whatever format you bought (like foot pounds, lb ft), to adjust the torque you turn your handle to the right number, then lock the handle by twisting the bottom of the handle. Tighten with it only and when you feel a click, that's the correct torque. I would imagine there are videos on YouTube that explain it better.

Always store your torque wrench at the lowest number setting.

 

That's a nice torque wrench, I recently bought the same.

 

I just installed a TRD exhaust on a '17 this morning. I torqued it to pretty tight with my 3/8" SnapOn impact gun. Hope this helps.

 

I got it yesterday and the exhaust will be here M or T,


these are what the settings look like. thanks for the response bro!

 

Sorry I sound so dumb guys, Just want to learn this at my old age, l

 

The left pictures shows the wrench set to 10 ftlb. As you twist the collar, you add that number to the most recently displayed number on the shaft. 1 click to the right is 11, 2 clicks is 12 etc. Once you reach 20, that 0 will pop back up so you're adding 0 to 20 meaning 20 ftlb. Keep twisting and you go up and up.

 

thanks for the help brothers!

 

I've had that same Tekton for a couple if years now. I use it for everything and it's yet to fail me. Don't need to sped $150 for a good wrench.

 

Doing it the right way... good job!
Click-click

 

Yep, it's pretty solid and seems a good quality even though I've never used one, lol

 

Yes, cause if I ended up snapping a bolt off, well then i'de snap!

 

Now it's $25.00 and I paid $36! Lol. Guess I'll send mine back and order this and save $10,

$25. that's a sweet deal

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

If it's the same. I'd ask them if they can match price. Save you from having to send back.

 

Just a tip do don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts or as a breaker bar. This can mess up your calibration of the tool.

 

I have the same 1/2" drive torque wrench and a great tool with lifetime warranty. If it's lighter torque numbers, you can probably just go by feel with a ratchet or box end wrench. It's the higher torque numbers 75 and up that I would use the actual torque wrench. Tip.........Make sure you back off the torque wrench setting to 0 before storing it away at the end of the day. There is a spring inside that can eventually wear out if left compressed. Good luck with everything......

 

I want to thank you all for the excellent advice, great people great forum!

 

That is an excellent price I have one very similar.To me it is worth it to get a 3/8 drive inch pound wrench for the smaller stuff for no more than they cost....I use mine on my Harley all the time.
Just a lil tip for the new user if a torque value is called out in in/lbs this can be converted to Ft/Lbs by dividing by 12. Ex. 240 in/lbs becomes 240/12=20 so 20 ft/lbs. and to convert from ft/lbs to inch/lbs multiply by 12
.

 

Ok,

would the 1/2 drive be good for working on the Truck or do I need both, just curios

Thanks

 

The 1/2 drive ft/lb wrench will work good for a Tundra.....I was just saying a 3/8 drive in/lb wrench is a good addition to the 1/2 drive. They are cheap and for what we are doing a high dollar calibrated top-o-da-line precision wrench is not needed...unless you are gonna rebuild your motor

 

Thanks for the explanation, I will get a 3/8 and even think I may get this too, seems a good tools as well

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MWVAUT6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

Yes good price on that and good reviews as well. Every tool box should have a half inch breaker bar.

PS.
I finally read through your first post and noticed this
6.5 ± 2.5 lb-ft of torque
The 1/2 wrench probably wont even go that low..if it does it wont work well, hence the in/lb wrench set at 6.5x12=78 in/lbs you will get much better feel

 

On top of a 1/2" breaker bar I have a 2' long 1/2" ratchet that is great for stuck suspension and frame bolts.

 

I have a 1/2" and /8" torque wrench, had them for years and used them a lot too. I have but 1 question: do they need calibrating occasionally? I always store at 0, but wonder sometimes if the drift out of cal over the years.

 

They can and will fall out of calibration from time to time depending on frequency of use. The best you can do is have them checked or just send them in to the manufacturer to be recalibrated. On a torque wrench that cost <$100 I would just buy a new one every few years. On torque wrenches over > $100 I'll have them recalibrated. It's been a couple years since I've sent one in but I think it cost around $50 to recalibrate.

 

I got this from the interweb and it's basic good advice. Do some reading, it's pretty basic:
Tighten fasteners in two steps—first to half torque and then to final torque.

Clean dirty or rusted threads before tightening, but don’t lubricate them unless instructed to by the equipment manufacturer.

Always dial the wrench back to zero (never below zero) when you’re done with it.

Never use your torque wrench as a breaker bar—that’ll damage the torque mechanism.

Carry it with kid gloves—a single fall can knock the accuracy off by as much as 30 percent. If you do drop it, get it recalibrated (calibration firms listed below) before using it again.

 

We calibrate & repair all torque wrenches, torque multipliers, hydraulic devices from 0.5ozf-in to 20000 lbf-ft here at Transcat's Denver lab. Tektons are pretty decent for the money. It all depends what you are using the torque wrench for. 4% accuracy is OK. Repeatability at 4% is paramount. I've seen brand new "off brand" wrenches fail calibration right out of the box. We actually have some customers bring in Harbor Freight torque wrenches that are used on production lines and they almost never meet mfr specs let alone stay in spec very long. Most torque wrenches need to be re-verified every 6 months max. Aircraft applications sometimes require 1 month cal intervals. I'm lucky. I calibrate my personal torque wrenches here at the lab.

 

I have my 1/2" checked roughly every 6 months as I use it daily. I rarely use my 3/8" so I have it checked every 2 years. When my Craftsmen torque wrenches went out of spec, I just replaced them with SnapOn. Personal preference but I just don't see the point in fixing an $80 torque wrench. Granted, they earn my paycheck so I'd rather have a higher quality wrench anyways. Would be fun to visit the lab.

 

Snap-Ons are hard to beat for accuracy,repeatability, reliability. As far as repair, our rule of thumb is to not recommend a repair if total cost is more than 50% of current value. Usually works out. Our lab is pretty nice. We just finished up our biannual NIST NVLAP audit. You can check out our Scope of Accreditation (capabilities) on Transcat.com. http://www.transcat.com/calibration-services/lab-locations/calibration-lab-denver/

 

What is the average cost of calibration/repair?