Auto Harness House Non JBL install issue

Hey folks,
I'm in the process of installing 2 10" Fosgate subs and a Fosgate

$220 R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

R500X1D amp. The subs are 4 ohm dvc so I bridged them in a series so they'll at least end up as 4 ohms at the amp. Anyhow, I added the harnesses from AHH and ended up running the black wire, I believe it's pin 9 on the 10 pin harness as the remote to the amp, and the grey and white wires, 4 total, to the amp for the High level input connection (no LOC or RCAs used). After all was said and done, only the front speakers are functioning as they run off the HU. Anyone else run into a similar issue with this setup? Per the pics, I utilized butt connectors for everything, but not sure if that is necessary. Any and all help would be appreciated!

 

Here's the amp as it sits...

 

Update...I was able to get power to the amp, triple checked all my connections, but still no dice. When I turn the ignition, and go to audio settings, a music note with a circle and slash appears on the top left. So currently, the only speakers functioning are the one in the dash and the rear tweeters. And suggestions would be greatly appreciated as I've spent A Ton of hours on this and near the end of my rope...

 

You still need to have all the wires connected for your door speakers to work.

Connect each wire, color for color. The white and gray wires from the RF amp need to splice or "T" in to the connected white and gray wires for your adapter harness.

This harness basically allows you to tap speaker wires without modifying your stock wiring. You're just building a simple T harness. Make sense?

 

This thread was the best one that I found for info on my install (@TundraTex): https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundratex-2016-crewmax-audio-build.7394/

 

So I ended up using pins 3, 8, 9, and 10 from the 145 connector, (signal wires), for the high output amp connections. So it sounds like I'll need to splice these into the adapter harness then?

 

Thanks, I believe I came across this one...since I'm not using a LOC, I didn't look too deep

 

@TRDFerguson I got the idea for using the signal wires on the J145 connector from one of your posts...did you end up splicing these connections back to the harness?

 

Are you using a line out converter before the amp ?
-edit -
I see you are not -
Yes , a splice will be the only option for now, but i doubt you will be happy with the performance. The OEM head unit is not capable of a very clean signal to the amp

 

Yes, everything must be spliced together! Trust me man - connect everything together, color for color, pin for pin. Then tap or splice the RF high level harness into the white and gray wires. These wires you have disconnected go directly to your door speakers that's why you have no sound. I'm assuming the red/yellow/black wires are 12v accessory/12v constant/ground that are disconnected causing your amp not to power on as well.

EDIT
Just to clarify, you'll want to do the splicing on the speaker side (output) wires.

 

Yep, no LOC...I plan to eventually add another amp and swap out the stock HU

 

I trust you bro, was just asking if he spliced as he didn't make any mention of it (or perhaps I missed it). The colors were off from the factory harness with those on the AHH adapters, so I just lined up everything pin for pin. The amp has power and is running the subs, just no door speakers as this point...sounds like I need to get to splicing...hopefully it won't degrade the signal to the RF

 

The way you'd use the wiring harness is going to be entirely dependent on your use case... in my setup with an aftermarket HU, I'm just going to be using it as an amp bypass, so I'll only be matching up the speaker inputs and outputs, leaving the power and ground connections alone. If/when I add an aftermarket amp back into the mix, I'd only be interested in the speaker outputs and the power/turn on leads, and then use RCA cables for signal and a dedicated amp wiring kit for power from the battery.

It sounds like you are missing a connection or two, possibly looped back to an incorrect pin? I got messed up a couple times on my first bypass attempt, swapping left and right, positive and negative connections. Like multiple people mentioned, you're going to want to splice into the speaker output lines. Do you need the plug diagram or do you already have that handy?

 

This is the diagram I've been working from, just using the pin positions and ignoring colors: https://www.tundras.com/threads/amp-wiring.40096/#post-1019766

 

Thanks bro, yep, that's the diagram that I was referencing as a lot of the colors didn't line up

 

Spliced the remaining loose wires with butt connectors, and all good...sounds Rad, so I'm Stoked! Thanks for the suggestions/insight, and big thanks to Brian at AutoHarnessHouse.com...even took time out of his weekend