Parasitic drain, solved for the most part

2005 double cab limited leather seats, JBL system. Stock navigation radio, dvd player,after market bazooka sub. Fyi

So I'll try my best to cover all the bases on what I have done.

I had a drain on my truck that caused it to die over about a night and a half so roughly let's say 16 hours truck was dead and completely dead like no lights. So I did your typical paracitic drain test. Found out after letting the truck sit for a while that it had a .69 amp draw. I pulled one fuse after another to figure out which circuit was the issue. My tests proved that the fuse RAD NO. 3 was this issue. A quick search online told me that it was the audio/video circuit. Yaay

After figuring that out with no diagrams on what that circuit exactly went to, I started disconnecting one by one every component dealing with music and dvd. All while checking the amps (draw).

Nothing had worked... I used a lifeline and called a mechanic buddy of mine. He pulled up his all data and it showed that RAD NO 3 went directly to the factory amp. So found where that was a disconnected it. Instantly the amps dropped. (.030)

At the amp it has an aftermarket wiring kit that allows the new subwoofer to have power. So even with the sub disconnected, we removed what was installed aftermarket to the amp and put the factory harness directly to the amp and the draw came back(.69).

So with all that being said we deemed the factory amp to be the issue.

So with all that being said, I know my 2 front speakers in the truck doors are blown, not sure why it was like this when I bought the truck about a month ago. Didnt care at the time I can easily replace them.

So my questions are

1) does the amp typically go bad in these trucks?

2) could potentially my blown speakers be causing the drain on the system?
I didn't think about this until after the fact I was away from my truck. I'm leaving it at my parents where all my tools are and really only have time on weekends to get back to it.

Hopefully someone has some insight on this system, did a few google searches and only find people by passing the factory amp, not neccesarily fixing it or not even sure why. I would like to keep my dvd player working and from what I understand swapping one component is quite difficult with the jbl system. Also I remember reading if you change the head unit you loose the dvd player.

I found an exact match amp on Ebay for $94 and $ 25 shipping. I'll search a few local junkyards if they have an exact match also. But in the mean time just want to pick everyone's brains on this issue.

Thanks, might have missed a few details so I'll try my best to answer questions.

 

Does your amp look like this? If yes I have one that came out of an 05 Double Cab Limited with the JBL Premium Sound and rear seat audio controls on the rear of the center console and remote. I will sell the amp for $75 + 10 shipping. Been planning to sell it on ebay. My 82 year old dad owned the truck from new up until 2018 so it has never been cranked up to 2

The part# on my amp is 86280-0C070

 

Looks and sounds very similar, does the truck have leather seats? Ive noticed the amps say what type of seats so im assuming that makes a difference.

 

My 06 Limited has fabric seats. Looking at amps on ebay. I'm not seeing any difference between the Fabric Seat amp and the Leather Seat amp. The size and plugs are identical.
The stereo info for my 06 Limited from the Toyota Owners site by VIN # says.
EJ JBL AM/FM/Cass With 6 Disc Changer & 8 Speakers In 6 Locations
HY Rear Audio System w/Wired Headphone Capability

 

I'll have to look into it, if I get out of work early I'll go to the truck and get more info on it.

 

Ok so I took a screen shot of what toyota.com says my truck system has. Only thing different is someone added an aftermarket bazooka sub.
So it seems we have similar amps.

Now I was reading some other posts and it seems you might have a great deal of experience with these systems. Do I loose the dvd sound if I decided to by pass my amp and install essentially a whole new system in the truck?
It seems like no matter what you loose steering wheel controls but that's minimal stuff.

 

There are adapters to retain everything but the rear entertainment. Interesting thing is your bass tube may have actually been a factory part, it was offered as an accessory Toyota #PTS20-34040

From the sound of it your better off just taking @weadjust up on his factory amp.

The only other option I think is to replace everything including the rear entertainment with new parts.

 

Yeah I would to keep the dvd player I plan to use it when camping and chilling its it's a cool option in my opinion. Im not 100% on if our amps are the same.

Only reason I don't think so is just the fact mine has a leather seat sticker on it. I don't understand why it has that and why it would make a difference.

So if I stay all factory which I'm fine with for now, how do I go about changing the 2 blown front speakers? Or do I call it the amp causing them to sound like dookie shoes.

 

Could be both honestly, the speakers are easy enough to swap out with new 6.5 units. Crutchfield can supply you with the speakers, mount adapters, and pig tails to make it easy.

Here's the leather seat version #86280-0C080

Might be something as goofy as the mounting tab being slightly different. I've noticed Toyota will even use different part numbers for a left vs right side of a part even if the parts themselves are identical.
https://www.ebay.com/i/123925502491...2GmXSKGseFb0itWPGJDhfBLjmUwCJQaoaAuNpEALw_wcB

 

Excellent thanks for the info, I guess I could be the Guinea pig for seeing if the amps are the same. Unfortunately I feel not Monday people will benefit from this info but wth. Alright I'll look into crutchfield. I have seen in other posts people saying they name the install a whole lot easier.

Thanks for the info.

 

When I called Crutchfield and used their website the information provided on the front door speakers didn't fit my 06 Tundra with the JBL premium sound system. Crutchfield's front door speaker size is wrong for the JBL Premium system so Crutchfield sent the wrong size adapters and the wrong speaker wire adapters. They do make the right adapters and wiring harness adapters but I ended up making my own adapters and cutting the wiring after getting the wrong parts twice.

Your front door speakers look like the pic below. The amp sends the mid/bass sound signal to the front door mid/subwoofer speakers and separate treble sound signal to the tweeters in the pillars. If you keep the JBL amp and replace just the lower front door speakers and use existing wiring your only going to get mid/bass signal to the lower door speakers.



Crutchfield's 06 Tundra JBL system info shows the front speaker without the mid speaker. The speaker pic below came from Crutchfield's web page with their info on the JBL system.

https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx?vid=18814

 

I mostly understand what you're saying just a little confused on what I should order from them. I can easily make whatever i need to, I'm quite good when it comes to wiring and installs so I'm not worried about that. Just o dont want to make this process take much longer. So if you dont mind just let me know what I need to order to make my original speaker system work. As of now i really only want music back to my truck without it dieing on me. I dont necessarily care to upgrade, but if itll be cost effective I'll start to look into it before I spend too much money on fixing it. Again just bought this truck a month ago and just want to be able to drive it.

This weekend coming up depending on work I want to take a look at my timing belt and replace that if it hasn't been done already. I'm going to call the dealer and see if they have any records of it being done. With that being said I dont want to "waste" much more time with the speakers.

Thanks for all your help so far weadjust.

 

You can probably just go by the impedance listed on the bottom of the speakers and find matching drivers (e.g. 2 ohm 3.5 inch, 8 ohm 6.5 inch, etc). Just be advised that throwing in a full range speaker for the 6.5 inch woofer won't net you any better sound range, since I'm pretty sure the amp has crossovers built in.

 

If you're going to keep the existing JBL head unit and amp which is a 2 ohm 6 channel system. The cheapest option would be to replace the subwooofer speakers in the front doors. The mid speakers are probably OK. You could use the existing toyota speaker mounting system by removing the 4 screws that hold the subwoofer to the mount. There is no speaker wire adapter for the subwoofer only. You can search for a 2 ohm subwoofer but I didn't find many when I went down this rabbit hole. Power Bass makes some 2 ohm 7" and 6.5" speakers that will probably fit with some modification or may fit perfect. The Power Bass 7" looks like the closest fit but I do not know about the depth situation. The depth of the factory subwoofer is aprox 2 1/2". I ended up removing all of my JBL system and replacing everything with a aftermarket 4 ohm system.

 

JBL systems in Toyotas can be a little tricky. You have a woofer, midrange and a tweeter up front. In most all cases just the woofer needs to be replaced. The front speakers from the factory are 2 ohm. Most aftermarket speakers will be 4 ohms. If you replace the front speakers with a 4 ohm, you will lose volume. I would, have to recommend another 2 ohm for the front. The rear speakers are 4 ohm, so you can put just about any aftermarket speaker back there. I got you set up with Powerbass components for the front. They come with separate tweeters, you can install them, to replace the factory tweeters, but that will not be a plug and go job, the 6.5 inch woofer will. The rears can be a more affordable Kenwood, our most popular replacement. you will get all the brackets and wire adapters except for the small tweeters, those we do not have.


That's the reply I got from crutchfield. in my opinion it sounds like he is setting me up with exactly what you guys have been saying.

If you think this is the right stuff I might just go ahead and purchase it.

 

Seems like it should work, though I'm not sure what you'd need to do in order to hook up the tweeters. The owners manual says the tweeters are 3ohm, so you'd need to pull the factory ones and see if you're within an ohm of those... I'd go for it. $120 isn't bad for the set, and the few reviews I've read sound promising, especially for this type of application. Worst case, just use the woofers like Crutchfield recommended.

https://powerbassusa.com/media/uploads_file/2017/10/06/a59d80b87c3b9b2.96797546.pdf

 

Those speakers are what he paired me with. I'm also not 100 percent on what to do with the tweeters but if it is only my woofers that need to be replaced than maybe I'll just go with them. I'll try to hook up the tweeters and see if I can get any luck but if not and it still works well then I have spares.

 

I would probably just use the 6.5 Power Bass speakers and see how it sounds. The tweeters may fit if you take the tweeter speaker grill and mounting hardware off and just use the speaker. Its real easy to access the tweeter to try out the Power Bass tweeter and see how it sounds. Check your PM for amp info.

 

So I recieved the amp from weadjust. Looked them both over and sure stuffs, they are the same. The part numbers are different but only by one number. Like fester had said it much just be toyota specifying leather vs fabric seats not sure why. So quick installed it while reading draw on the battery and no additional draw after amp hook up. So the fabric seat aml works in a leather seat truck. Turned the radio on I have volume and sound in all speakers. Unfortunately my front woofers are blown. But I do have the new woofers I ordered from crutchfield waiting to be installed.


Now just for wondering purposes, wonder what killed it. Only aftermarket piece in the audio system is the sub. Before I hook that up I'll have to double check the wiring to that. I have my doubts that the wiring is an issue just on the looks on how it was wired. Very professionally looking, small solder joints and heat shrink on every connection. With that being said can never be 100%.

Orrr I'm just over thinking it lol.

Thanks again guys for all the help

 

hey bud , so just wondering if you got the power bass woofers installed in the front doors and how everything went? Did you wind up using /installing the new tweeters that came with the kit? If you did was it hard to get the tweeters figured out/fit/wired? How’s everything sound ?! Thanks!

 

Hey man, I have a write up in the audio section in what I did. I didnt use the new tweeters. I did a quick job on it. Couldve made a little bracket to hold the speaker in, but I didnt.
Other than that everything they sold me from crutchfield was good. Mainly the wiring adapters were great. I'll try to find the post i made but, where I'm at we cant have our phones.

 

Very nice write up and felt the need to share the link for others interested.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-jbl-front-door-speaker-upgrade.56102/

 

Thanks man.

 

thanks for the reply before , and yes I did see your other post and it is good work and thanks for the details. However still a couple questions . So you told me you did not install the included tweeters that came with the PB kit . Your truck does have the original tweeters up in your door pillars though correct ? Are those the tweeters you mentioned that did not temporarily work before you saw the pinched wire? Or were you referring to the smaller speaker in the door next to your new woofers as the tweeter? ( I believe the small speaker in door is supposed to be a “mid” speaker and pick up the frequencies between the lows of the big woofer and the highs of the tweeters that I have (and you?) up in the door pillar area. If that’s the case , do both that small mid range speaker that’s on your pictures- as well as the factory tweeter up near your door pillar- both still function ?

 

Well I'm not quite sure what the function of either of the "tweeters" are. I only assumed they are both tweeters mainly on their size. But yes both smaller speakers work, after I fixed the pinched wire. My lower tweeters seemed to always work. I can hear the highs down by the woofers and also up by the pillar. I can only assume my upper speakers (tweeters/ pillar speakers) didnt work cause I never really noticed them working, until I fixed the wire. Could be the placebo effect, ya know change your oil and your truck seems like a race truck lol. I didnt replace the lower ones cause I didnt want to go through the trouble of mounting them, specifically cause I couldnt hear much different between the 2.

After the speaker install (which my woofers were audibly cracked) I was able to hear all front door speakers working as they should. Very crisp sound out of this truck. Which I'm very happy with.

Any more questions I'll try my best to answer. I'm not a pro at this but with the help of other people on this fine forum we have here I was able to get a very good understanding of out JBL system.

 

That's similar to a saying by a regular poster around here, can't remember his name....'Paint your truck black and it'll go faster"

Spoiler

@Darkness

 

I have a 2002 and it only has tweeters up high with one large 6.5”? speaker down low on each of 4 doors. All OEM.

I tested my tweeter when I had the door panels off for some other work. By testing, I mean turning the sound up with all 6 speakers hooked up and turned ON and up fairly high.

Result: Tweeters barely had any output. Not an expert here and didn’t go to MIT Sound School.

 

Usually these amps do not fail under normal conditions. However the internal audio output IC's TA8254BH are sensitive to shorted speakers or wires shorted to ground. If this happens it tends to burn out these IC's which could also result in a parasitic drain. I have successfully replaced these IC's restoring amp to working condition. Most importantly you must find the cause or the IC's will fail again. In one case I had a customer that had his truck repaired by a body shop and when they were working on one of the front doors they carelessly tightened down a bolt crushing the tweeter wire underneath it. It wasn't a direct short. I couldn't even detect it with a normal ohms check, but using a megger on the 50v setting it was clear there was bleeding to ground.

 

I posted the install of my speakers on this site too. If you find it, which it doesn't matter, you'll find that my one tweeter which was working, had a wire crimped under a nut. Looked like it had been like that for a long time. I would almost assume that it was like that from factory. I didn't see any signs of someone being in there previously.

 

Found your pic. Right front tweeter mounted near door mirror had that same nut tightened down on the speaker wire. That looks exactly what mine looked like. So this my be a common assembly defect. My customer did have body work done and it looked like the plastic under the door panel had been removed at some point, but perhaps the body guys were innocent of this issue. It is hard to find repair shops that do good work these days especially in Los Angeles, so I usually would assume the worst. I guess anyone that has one of these systems in a double cab or I believe sometimes referred to as a crew cab should check to make sure they don't have this same problem.