uh oh unhooked the battery...

My 2016 5.7 is bogging just when you turn the key. I found some crud starting to build up around the pos post so I pulled both the pos and neg at the same time ,duh... anyway cleaned the post with backing soda and water and post brush. put neg back on first then when I tried to fit pos cable it honked the horn twice and started clicking so I pushed unlock on key fog to disarm it,that did nothing. but now it won't start and no head lights or radio. overhead light comes on and a red lock symbol on dash comes on. Owners manual is no help at all.Help me ,please.

 

I'm guessing you blew a fuse. Have you also tried disconnecting again, the right way and reassembling in kind?

 

Red lock symbol is at bottom of tack.

 

Is it flashing?

 

My guess is your battery is bad or shorting out. I’m sure you know most auto parts stores will test them for free. If it’s good then it may well be a fuse, my money is on a bad battery! Good luck.

 

Tried it the right way, Pos post first then neg. Now I have no lights at all, and key turn is all dead. Just before I did this I hit the unlock button on fob and it set off a clicking sound. Red flashing lock symbol in lower tack window is now the only thing alive.

 

That clicking sound is definitely a battery gone bad/dead, take it out and into AutoZone, you'll probably be walking out with a new one..

 

I will check the fuses, I was just in Costco yesterday mounting new tires. I asked him to check the battery, and he said he had no way to test it. I thought that was very strange. 2016 Almost 5 years old ,your probably correct.

 

It wasn't that kind of sound more deep and low

 

Yes

 

Is it a lock over a car?

 

The red flashing lock I believe is your anti theft system. Replace the 5 year old battery and if that doesn’t work try unlocking the truck with the key fob a few times and trying again.

If nothing check your fuses. You may have blown one that controls the anti theft.

 

Okay will do that in the morning. It is a red lock that looks like it is open, but something else is next to it that I cannot make out because it is blinking so fast.

 

Positive first, then ground. Ground is first thing to come off and last to go on.

 

It’s a car behind a lock. You’re anti theft system is trying to tell you something. You may have fried your immobilizer or the system isn’t recognizing your key chip or fob. I’d say you fried something judging by the info you told us.

https://www.kendalltoyota.com/car-wont-start/

A great link to help you get to the root...

 

The 5 year old Yota battery was fine, it was the cable ends that go over the posts, truck came from Pensicola FL. Salty costal air gets into everything. I soaked them in baking soda brine and tooth brushed the crap out of them and Hooked everything back up with the key fob in my hand when I reconnected Pos terminal. Everything is good in KC Thanks

 

X2. Big risk of shorting if you do it the other way around

 

Its a good chance that by having the battery disconnected for 15 minutes or more it reset the electrical components.

And the order you connect your battery wires really is more about making sure the battery isn't connected to the body/chassis of the vehicle when removing/replacing the positive.

If you're removing the positive before the negative and your wrench makes contact with the body/chassis and arc's out, that's when you can really damage some electrical stuff.

 

What really freaked my out about the whole thing and the reason for this post was I have a 2010 Audi A6. Like this truck I had just bought it when the battery started to go, Dealership quoted me $550 for new battery installed. Being the cheap bastard I am I got a quote over the phone for the battery for Audi parts department $425 so I went with the self install. Audi requires a code on the battery be entered to reset the computer from charging an almost dead battery to a new one. If you do not enter the code it will not realize there is a new battery on board and over charge it. You almost have to buy their battery because most, not all brands do not have a code to use. And they are charging you to reset it. But more importantly you must keep 12v current present and running though the system while the battery is out of the vehicle, or the computer will go into what they call safe mode. Computer will shut down everything, but car will start and drive to dealership for a computer reset $$, and that's about it. You can keep power present by attaching a battery charger or minder on trickle charge. Just guess how I know all this!

 

that's insane

 

Well. I’m never buying an Audi.

 

I had an Audi R8 in 2008

Beautiful car to drive, girls panties drop when you drive by them but if you ever have an issue with it you better bring a lot of money with you.

 

Amen brother, I already have another engine light on! Glad I bought an OBD11. Love the supercharger though.

 

The 2010 Audi has an engine light on, not the 2016 tundy...

 

This would stroke me out, absolutely insane.

Go to Toyota and get an 84 month battery, it's about the same price as other auto parts stores and has a much better warranty