All dash lights blinking

Have to love great forums. Unlimited research. So this is my 2nd post. Again. THANK U to all for the help.

08 5.7
Start the truck , no dash lights on. Start driving , push foot on brake , ABS kicks in , computer telling the truck to kick in ABS ? ALL lights stay off till I hit exactly 20mph. As 20mph hits, boom ALL dash lights flash and stay flashed till i shut'er sown.

Also worth noting.

Only way to engage my 4W is to shut the truck , same with disengaging 4W.

Changed out the passenger side "brake sensor" i think it was called. It took care of the problem for about 5m.

Could the Driver side sensor have gone ??

Cheers

 

Anyone ????

 

Scan tool codes?

 

I would start by connecting a scan tool to find out what codes are popping up.

 

Alternator...battery....I’d check those first.

 

My truck did the similar junk when my battery was pilling up.

 

Battery is 100% ok as are connections. I dont have a scan tool. And the crooks at the dealership will not help me out unless i fork down $150 to connect a wire to a code reader. That shit should be criminal !!

 

That sounds like a short somewhere. Is there any aftermarket anything on the truck? Radio, fog lights, brake controller?
Has the truck had any damage?

 

Yes there is. A stereo system that was installed professionally. No damage to the truck. I dont understand how that would f with the truck. Everything works fine up till 20mph. No lights flash till then. How would a short tell the system to go faulty , not till 20mph ?

 

Auto parts stores will generally run a scan for free.

 

These things have an electrical system about 1,000 times more complicated than the Apollo Moon lander. Unless your stereo installer worked for NASA or Toyota, I would start there. Maybe he spliced wires, or used the wrong harness, or both.
These trucks tend to run forever without major issues...if they are kept stock. Are you the original owner? Are you positive it was never in a body shop?

 

Also, look for chewed wires and rodent nests. A nosey squirrel can cause many thousands of damage to an otherwise tough truck.

 

Positive on no Body work ever. Im the 2nd owner. Stereo dude was legit , builds custom competition style set ups. Stereo was also put in 5yrs ago. This problem started last yr.

 

That actually could be it, a 5 year old stereo install. Maybe something like a ground wire rattled loose or corroded after 4 years of exposure and bouncing around, you could ask that installer to check their work for something like that. If you revisit the installer (maybe a different one), also ask them look for signs of rodents, any flood damage or corrosion while they are inspecting it. How many miles do you have again? Did you or the truck ever live near saltwater?

 

wouldn't a bad sensor do this as well ?
no rodents , no flood , no rot , rust , etc. truck is solid and clean
116k on the truck
ill look at the ground wires , check the stereo , i just find it very difficult for a stereo faulting this.

 

If it was a Chevy, a sensor would be normal starting at 36,001 miles( warranty end). It surely could be a sensor, but at 116k, that would be premature for a Yota, in my experience.
On another note, I have a brother who had a 2001 HD silverado, and when the oil change place did his transfer case fluid change when the truck was 4 years old, they used the wrong fluid, and he suffered all kinds of electric issues(the transfer case turned into a generator I am told, due to magnesium bits), before the gears in the case welded themselves and locked up, making for a 6,000# yard ornament. Jiffy lube paid for that fix, eventually! At least you did not have that happen!

 

KEY word in that one , """ JIFFY LUBE """" wtf would ever take anything there
i basically need to get this sorted out , asap . Code Finder seems to be the best route as of now

 

You need the codes read.

So either take it to autozone and ask them to read the codes, then hope you can diagnose from there, reason I say that is you might get a code for one thing, but the actual problem could be up or down the stream from that sensor, all the codes do is give you a general starting point.

Or take it to a dealer, pay the $150 to have it checked out. Reason they charge that is you only want them to tell you whats wrong so you can take it elsewhere to have it repaired, they have to fund that shop, by doing diagnosis for free they cant do that. You could always ask them to discount the fee if you agree to let them make the repair.

Autozone and others will read the codes for free because odds are you will walk in the store after and buy a part or parts from them if the first one does not fix the issue.

Good luck hope you get the issue resolved.

 

I have a buddy with a reader , just has to find the time to get over to me.
I will NOT contribute to the dealers theft. Its horrible the way they run their outfit. I will not name the dealer , but i have been in the waiting room there , listening to the absolute garbage they sling to people. Especially Women and Seniors. I aint down for that noise.
Thanks all for the suggestions , snow season is upon us , i gots ta get my lady ready.

 

Who is worse, Jiffy Lube or Dealer? Lol
I have great service at a local shop called ToyoDoctor or something, I take my 2011 Tacoma there in the rare event something needs to be fixed(it happened once, I broke something). They are f-ing great. Perhaps you have a Toyota Specialist shop near you,if so, check reviews, and save alot of dealership induced repair fees. No Jiffy Lube, ever.

 

haha , ill go to jiffy lube to buy some mushrooms or a bag a grass. having those cats service my whip.... no way bro.

 

Some dealers are better than others, I deal with the same one since 2012, no big issues, couple small ones but they were handled quickly and to my satisfaction.

 

I have another jiffy lube family tale. My dad had a 1997 S-10. After the warrenty expired, he regularly went to JL for service. At 190k, I borrowed the truck for a 3 week road trip, put it up to nearly 200k, took it from Chicago to Washington, down the PCH, to LA, and back through a meandering southwestern route though about a dozen national parks. Dangerous cliff hanger roads daily. About a week after I returned safely, my brother took the truck on a short 10 mile trip to a nearby town. THE GODDANG UPPER BALL JOINT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE WAS NEVER LUBED, AND THE WHOLE WHEEL FELL OFF WHILE HE DROVE!!!! FOR 8 YEARS JIFFY BOOB NEVER LUBED THE PASSENGER SIDE BALL JOINT! MY DAD ALWAYS WENT TO THE SAME LOCATION! They did however do a great job keeping the easy-to-access ball joint on the drivers side greased. Not a drop on the other, for 8 years! Could have killed me, ffs. To give due credit, they paid for a new wheel and the repair. Receipts go a long way when arguing fault.

 

100% true. I had horrid service at Autonation, yet fantastic service from Groove Toyota, up the road. I had terrible experiences at Extreme Ford in Crystal Lake, Ill(they went under, shut down by the state for shenanigans) and bar setting service at Buss Ford, in the same area.

 

sooo have you driven to AutoZone, O'reilly's, Advanced Auto Parts, Napa...(need I say more) to get the codes read? That will be your simplest route in both time and labor to see what the ECM is telling you.

 

Do you have a brake controller or a remote starter. I just got mine back for flashing lights after thinking it was the AIP and it turned out to be the remote starter. The starter was cut into the main wiring harness. The dealer ripped it out and resoldered the wiring. Apparently- it was causing all sorts of codes to go off.

No flashing lights after the fix... yet.

 

interesting , i do have a remote starter . . never had an issue with it. no brake controller.

 

AloHA Friday !!

? U all cool or not cool with replacing worn OEM ABS-Sensor with After Market ? Pretty sure thats part of my prob , it flashed on the computer

Cheers

 

I am going through this issue. Get yourself this ODB II reader:

for Android Phones ONLY - Wireless Bluetooth Diagnostic OBD2 Scanner Car Code Reader and Scan Tool for All 1996 & Newer Vehicles ELM327 Compatible OBDII

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Product..._7?keywords=odb2+reader&qid=1574524913&sr=8-7

Then install this App for Android: MotorData ODB (https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.motordata.obd&hl=en_US)

The app itself is free. The Bluetooth ODB readers unless they come with expensive Apps cannot see all the functions and read all of the ECU codes like ABS but this app you can buy a Toyota Plugin for $14.99 and read all the ECU codes, like ABS/Brakes, Restraints, etc. It works great and I was able to read the code for a failed Right Rear ABS Sensor.

Turns out the sensor isn't bad because when I pulled it out it was covered in grease. Looks like I have to replace a bearing to fix but the symptoms you had are the same I am dealing with. So definitely pull the sensor first to make sure no grease.

I recommend everyone getting their own ODB reader on the cheap like this so they can see what is going on and not have to worry about taking it somewhere to dig the code out. The total cost is about $37 bucks to have a decent way to look fully at your Truck's ECU.

 

BTW, before I had a clue what was going on I had a big bad plan just to replace all my ABS sensors, I bought two off of E-bay for cheap. I replaced the front driver one with one I bought on Ebay and the problem didn't go away, so I finally decided to get into the ECU to see what was really going on.

The ABS sensor I bought on Ebay is still in the front and working absolutely fine, reads the wheel speed perfectly. It was like $19.99 for a pair of them.

NOTE -- Be careful removing the ABS Sensor, they break easy. Spray them with some good lubricant if you decide to remove the one yourself.