Bilstein 5100 Rears Too Short?

I just installed Bilstein 5100's on the rear of my 07 Tundra with a 1" lift block and the Bilstein's were about 1" too short at the bottom with the springs fully extended (truck frame on jack stands; had to jack up the differential just to install them); these shocks were advertised as okay for a 1" lift, but they were at best 1/2" longer than my stock 4600's, has anyone else ran into this?

 

Did you cross reference the part number? I know it's longer than the oem. Do you have after market shackles? Measure center of the hub to the fender.

Mine is 24.5 center hub to fender. 40.5 ground to fender opening with 275.65.18. I have a 1" rake.
2" level kit and I adjust the rear hight with airbags.

Update:

@rustytoys I just measured my shocks as it sits with my current setup. 26.5" tip to tip. 21" from bottom of cylinder to the bottom of the bushing stop. I have 4" of extension travel based on their specifications.

 

Sprinter thanks, they are part# 24-186971 - and several website's all reference that as the right one. Appreciate the measurements, I will try to jack it up tomorrow and see what I get, but my truck was a stock TRD Tundra before I installed the 1" rear lift blocks - the shackles, leafs, etc. are definitely stock.

 

Here are some pictures, the 5100's are just barely a touch longer than stock; I also have brand new factory Toyota lower cushions on the 5100's (as pictured) which pushes them downward much farther than a worn cushion, so the fact that they still come up 1" short is really frustrating.

 

Just curious...since when does a shock have to extend the entire length with the axle fully dropped and wheels off the ground?

 

So in your opinion it's okay for the entire weight of the rear suspension to fall on the shock body and shock tower? Do rock crawlers or serious off road trucks exist that are limited by shock travel rather than spring travel, is that a thing? I am genuinely curious, not an expert here - but I am also aware of shock towers blowing out due to this very issue on a different non-off road vehicle I owned where everyone was buying rear shocks spec'd around 1" too short and a weak tower design couldn't handle it.

 

They say max lift in the rear is 1", so you should be good, put some load on the leaf spring and line it up and bolt it in.

 

Thanks, this is what I did and I have been driving it, but if I ever went off road or over a sharp hill fast to where the suspension and rear axle snaps its weight down on the shock body then that just concerns me a little, it's not a huge thing, but just disappointing when you buy something advertised for a 1" lift.

 

I never expressed an opinion. I asked a question.

 

Understood, I am also asking the question as I am not an expert, but common sense is telling me that dropping the entire weight of the rear axle on your shock tower or shock body is probably a really bad idea, but I'm open to any opinions from people with more experience, thanks.

 

Okay. I'll offer an opinion. I don't think it's a problem. That said, I don't go off-road. But it seems to me that with a 1" lift you are limited in how extreme your off-roading can be and any off-road excursions that can be prudently accomplished with a 1" lift will not be in any way hindered by those shocks. That's my opinion, and you know what they say about opinions.

In many vehicles, cars mostly, the shock is the only down stop on the rear suspension. The axle, if not supported, will drop to the floor if the shock is removed. Won't happen on a leaf spring, obviously, but only with coils. Think about what it is that provides the down stop on your front coil-overs.

 

Ditch the block and get Toytec shackles..
I had 5100 rears on my 2014 with the Toytec shackles set on the 1" setting..
Swapped them out for 5160s when I found them.
All is good....






Just a heads up, the 5160s didn't ride any better than the 5100 rears.
They just look fancier, I should have kept the 5100 rears with my 6112 fronts...

 

@rustytoys The difference in lengths is very minimal, but the housing in the 5100 is longer that gives you and additional stroke. I think you will be fine and it will be better than your older shocks. Once you put a load back on your truck you'll have the longer range/stroke.

https://www.suspensionconnection.com/f4-be5-e429-h0-tundra.html
https://www.suspensionconnection.com/f4-be5-e236-h0-tundra-rear.html

 

I prefer blocks to shackles as the block keeps the correct pinion angle from what I understand and handling with my 1" block is exactly the same as stock.

 

Sprinter, thanks did not consider the stroke aspect; it should be fine, but just doesn't seem ideal. The shocks handle and feel great - its a huge improvement over the worn 4600's - I also have new 5100's up front too, so very happy with the ride - just the shortness of the rear concerned me.

It's interesting as that Ready Lift website even advertises the 5100 rears as good up to a 0-2" lift, so I guess they're not concerned?!

 

How do those 5100 fronts ride?
Are they really stiff?
My 6112s are very stiff even after 3 years...

 

I have the fronts on the middle notch and its a more firm ride but in a good way as stock was too soft for me - it ended up slightly less than a 1.5" lift. I'm adding 3/4" Toytec top spacers in the next week or so - that way I don't have to preload them any more than the middle setting though... If I had it to do over again I would have bought new linear coil springs too if they exist?! Maybe that would help ride - although didn't your 6112's come with new coils and they are still stiff? What lift or notch are you running your 6112's at?

 

I've had 5100s for 1.5 years. 5100s slightly better than stock (Sport Bilstein 4600s red) at lowest setting. Middle setting a bit harsher. Top setting.... well I just ordered 6112s at the top setting (2.5") from @BOSS4x4s

 

I think they are ok. They are the limiting factor in our suspension. Don’t forget you have abs and brake lines you don’t want to tear either. I think you dropped your rear axle too much so they appear short but in actuality are fine. It’s only 1”extra of travel and if you are worried about the down travel being limited by the shock I think you can install straps. My leafs rest on my TRD sway bar at full extension so there’s also that insurance. I don’t think you’ll have a problem.

 

Well, my rear axle is at its natural resting position in that picture - nothing is unbolted or loose other than the shock, but yes good to hear and a rear sway bar to limit travel sounds like a decent idea too.

 

So if I'm reading your signature right your running 2" lift shackles on the rear with Bilstein 5100's - no issues?

 

Correct!

 

I am also running the ToyTec shackles on the 1.5" hole w/5100s.

 

I'm running my 6112s on the second to the lowest setting with 1 shim on each side.
I was hoping the shim wouldn't preload them any more than needed like you stated.
It gave me 2.5 of lift.
The ride isn't intolerable, but it hits bumps in the road pretty hard.
I hated my stock black shocks, it was like riding in a boat, floating down the road....

 

Thats interesting to hear, thought those 6112's would be smooth no matter what the preload notch considering they come with new coils I think? and everything. That boat feeling is how mine felt too stock - not totally sure if it was just due to my shocks being bad or the spring softness, or combination, but it doesn't have it anymore.

 

Good to know, I may move from a 1" up to a 1.5" rear lift - I mean the shock is already short 1" so whats another 1/2" ...

 

The shock is shorter and acts as the limiting factor, not the leaves. This is why it's not a very good offroad shock. Constantly slamming them out will destroy them over time. Street use with mild offroading should be fine. The 5160 is I believe longer, not just a wider diameter shaft.

 

Bilstein advertises the 5100 to be good for up to a 1" lift....readylift website advertises up to 2". Less than .5% of my driving is off-road, so very little chance of extending them all the way out. Because of this I went with the 1.5" hole.

 

I ran into this with my taco. I had 5" of rear lift and it would bottom out the shock extension on my OME shocks while turning in driveways. I changed to a b110 that was longer and longer brake hoses and it no longer lifted a tire wheeling either. It made it way better offroad with longer droop. And it quit clanging when it hit full extension .

 

Thanks, wow those 110's look great! Should have gone that route. Was looking at Old Man Emu, but had no idea they were so short considering they're advertised for 3" lifts!