2007-2020 Transfer Case Actuator

Hey all...new to this forum. But, it was invaluable to me as I had the same issue with my transfer case not shifting into either 4-Hi or 4-Lo. Steady flashing lights. Here are the steps I took to fix mine. It works perfectly now and in the end, may have only cost me nothing but my time. This forum, and YouTube saved me big money! I've made a Word.docx and attached it at the bottom of this thread of the repair process and attached it if you want to print it out. I don't have Wifi in my garage, so I had to go back and forth between the house and garage to look stuff up. Also, I've attached a bunch of pictures of what I'm talking about. I couldn't figure out how to put the pictures into the body of the thread where I wanted them, so I just attached them. BUT! I did make a Word.docx that I've attached and you can view that or even print it out to use in the garage if you don't have access to wife or your computer there.

Here's a great YouTube video to get you started with the process:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HKEluXwbZo

Here's another one in Tagalog (Pilipino). I don't speak Tagalog, but watching the video, it was easy to make sense even though it's not in English:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAK4reaebR0&t=366s

1. Took it to local mechanic to diagnose. Diagnosis: Electrical supply to 4WD actuator good, but actuator not working. Need to remove transfer case and split open to remove actuator. Replace bad actuator. Reinstall transfer case. Cost = $5-6,000.00. The actuator from Toyota is $1,700.00, or $500.00 online from Rock Auto.

2. Brought the truck home and inspected. Noticed vent hose not connected. Removed top cover to 4-Hi motor. Motor was rusted and frozen. Removed motor components and the gear fell out so I didn't know where the timing was supposed to go back.

3. Afraid that I wouldn't be able to get the timing right and it being below freezing where I live, I bought a used transfer case with actuators attached from a local salvage yard for $325.00.

4. Once I got it home, and after reading these forums and watching YouTube videos, I decided I'd see if I could get mine to work. Disconnecting the old transfer case and bench pressing it down and out, and the used one up and in seemed like more work than I wanted to do.

5. See image of the actuator to see how it looks on the rear of the transfer case as you'll see it when you're under your truck. The electrical connectors you can see are at the top, or closest to the underside of your truck. You'll need to first remove the two shields that protect them, then disconnect the three electrical connectors and the vent hose, if that's not already come loose and caused the problem in the first place.

6. See image of what the 4-Hi actuator looks like once you've removed if from the truck and taken out the gear mechanism.

7. Next image is what it should look like, though this is a mirror image and should be reversed.

8. Next, I removed the motor from the housing by taking out 3 larger screws and one tiny screw. Tilted motor up breaking electrical contact. Wiggled small gear on end of motor shaft and unfroze the motor. Cleaned rust off of housing as best I could with a small Dremel wire wheel. I applied a small drop of light oil to both ends of the motor shaft and reinstalled it. I then soldered the motor contacts and connected it to a 12v motorcycle battery (from my wife's Ninja) with some speaker wire. It spun smoothly and quietly. Wasn't pretty, but worked sweet!

In another image you can see where I soldered the contacts on the motor. I used fine gauge circuit board solder.

9. I cleaned out the rest of the motor housing and applied white lithium grease to the contact areas where the mechanism spins and basically everywhere the old grease had been.

10. Then, I slid under the truck and looked at the actuator rod. It was pushed all the way in. There are about 18 teeth on the rod. If we'd call the first tooth on the end of the rod #1, and the last tooth #18, and with the rod pushed all the way in, then the 18th tooth is just barely visible where it goes into the hole into the transfer case. So, if the truck is in neutral, and the 4-Hi disengaged, it should be all the way in.

11. I referred to several previous threads, as well as YouTube videos to check the timing. In the next image are the three spring tabs that need to be aligned on the circular electrical contact paths and where you align them.

12. Because there seems to be so much confusion as to where to align them exactly, I opened my used transfer case actuator 4-Hi cover and removed the motor assembly to reveal the gear mechanism. It usually falls out and that's when you realize you don't know exactly how it was placed in there and then don't know the timing. I carefully pulled up the cover, and wiggled it slightly so the gear would stay in the case. In the next image, the three spring tabs are at the 3 o'clock position if the transfer case is at 12 o'clock. I removed the gear, and checked that this rod was also pushed all the way in. Another picture shows how the three spring tabs are lined up exactly with the black plastic tab, or rib in the case underneath it.

In the next photo, you can see the transfer case. That would be the 12 o'clock position.

13. Yet another pic shows where you can see where the three spring tabs rotate on the circular contact as the gear spins. When reassembling, carefully line up the 3 spring tabs on these three contact dots/points and ensure that the actuator pushrod is all the way in.

14. Next image shows that there is a mark, or groove on the gear mechanism the aligns with one of the contact as shown below, just so you can double-check. Probably marks for assembly at the factory.

15. Place the small gear on the shaft in the position shown in the next photo.

16. Now your unit is ready to put back in actuator case on the transfer case. Again, ensure that the actuator rod is pushed all the way in. Then, use a thin blade knife to hold the gears in the case lid as you turn it over and reinstall it. Once it is installed, gently remove the knife blade. This will keep it from falling apart again.

17. Make sure the rubber gasket/o-ring is seated correctly in the lid groove.

18. Replace the 5 screws. I tightened them in a star pattern.

19. Reconnection the three electrical connections. If your vent line looks deteriorated or cracked, trim some off. I took about 1/4" off with some small sharp scissors. Reconnection the vent line. If it is stretched too tightly, it might come off again and allow water to enter the vent tube. So I used a small zip tie to make sure this didn't happen again.

20. Reinstall the two shields/skid plates.

21. Keeping your fingers crossed, start the truck and place the shifter in Neutral. Place the selector switch in 4-Hi. Move the shifter to Drive. Wait a second and you should hear some noise and it should engage. You should have a solid green 4-Hi light. If this works, place the shifter in neutral and repeat the process for 4-Lo. You may have to drive a little bit in drive, completely stop, switch to 4-Hi, drive, stop, neutral, 4-lo and drive. I did this several times to ensure it worked in all application. You should be able to shift from 2WD to 4-Hi on the fly or while you're driving (but I think you're not supposed to do it over 60 mph). But of course, you have to completely stop to engage 4-Lo.

In conclusion, this fix saved me about $5-6,000.00. Now, all I have to do is sell the used transfer case for $300.00 and I'll be good. If you have any questions about this operation, you can message me.

 

Nice write up man! i am currently in the same position where my vent hose went missing, top actuator motor locked up. I took them apart and got the motor cleaned and freed up. Everything worked, then it did not. I took it apart again and noticed this stupid plastic switch had broken off. I think this is all i really need to fix my truck at this point. Would you happen to still have this part from your old parts? I will pay!

 

I’m curious to know how often you engaged your 4wd system?

I’ve been trying to be religious about engaging it every month in the hopes that it keeps my 4wd in working order as long as possible.

 

Rph74: In my opinion, it's not how often you engage your 4WD, though doing it on your schedule of once a month can't hurt. The problem seems to be the vent hose coming off and allowing water/moisture in the actuator housing. My 4-Lo actuator motor case was clean and dry and looked brand new. The 4-Hi looked as though it had been underwater for a few years. Like you, I'm going engage it every so often for peace of mind.

 

Can you snap a pic of said vent?

 

Here you go (see attached Word.docx. It's on the top of the actuator just under the cab floor. Right next to the small electrical connector.

 

The bottom of your pic is cut off. Is the vent tube like this one?

 

I believe your picture is from a 1st Gen Tundra or from the front or rear differential/axle actuator. The 2nd Gen is like the one in the picture I posted. It has two rods coming out of it that you can't see as they are in the transfer case and require transfer case removal and opening it up to remove them. You have an '07?

 

That looks like a pic of the front or rear diff actuator. Here's pics from a YouTube video I have linked in this thread that are of the actuator. You can see the vent hole circled in red.

 

That’s perfect thanks for taking the time to post that.

 

Once a year we should have a engineer beating ceremony.

 

Great write up. This should get added to the DIY section on the forum.

 

I don't know how to do that...add it to the DIY thread of the forum. If you do, let me know and I will. Yesterday a fellow poster and I texted about this problem. The little switch on his gear mechanism broke. Another common problem. He said he was going to 3D print one! I thought that was quite McGuyver of him. In the end, he went one better. He used a safety pin and some epoxy to make another switch! He said he reassembled it and it works! Someone should make a kit fix for this. Motors and switches that can easily be replaced instead of $6 grand to the dealer for a complete repair, or $1700 to the dealer for the actuator, or $500 to Rock Auto, or $325 for a used salvage yard transfer case and actuator. We both fixed ours, as have others, for free or just a few dollars. And I did just in time...3 inches of snow last night!

 

I think an admin has to add it but yeah. The solution is awesome. This is what makes forums such a big wealth of knowledge.

@Pinay

 

There's no thread for 2nd gen. maintenance/repair info dump, like the 1st gen does.

By all means if this gets a lot of posts on how helpful it is, tag me again and I can make it a sticky.

 

Cool, yeah maybe this will be a first.

 

I have read another user on this forum had an interesting technique for setting the timing. If i understood correctly, basically you could reassemble the gears to the actuator case in any orientation. With the actuator assembly together, but not attached back to the transfer case (or actuation rod), you would connect the wiring harness back to the actuator case. You can then actuate using the dash switch. That sends signal to the motor and starts turning. There are position switches inside the actuator case that will self align the assembly after on cycle and off cycle. once that is reset,then you can then install back to the truck. Curious about this technique and will try it when i do mine.

 

I had thought if we could put a link to the DIY list of stuff; I think @T-Rex266 started that thread on all of the MODs and fixes. I’ll defer to the OP but would hate to lose this thread into some of the older pages.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/diy-mods-tutorials.257/

 

Yeah, I copied and printed out all the instruction that were written on how to get the actuator to re-set/re-align itself. But being old and not wanting to keep having to crawl under and out from under my truck in 30 degree weather on a cold garage floor, I just opted for the "one-and-done" method. I simply aligned the spring tabs in the location I posted photos of, reinstalled it into the actuator using the thin bladed knife trick referred to on this thread, ensured the rubber 0-ring was positioned correctly, tightened the 5 screws, trimmed and reseated the vent hose, plugged it in, and it worked! I drove it several times testing in in 4-Hi and 4-Lo and no issues. Then I reinstalled the two protective shields and I was done. Those timing marks in the photos I posted, and the ones of another poster, are right. Refer to the attachment if that helps...Good luck!

 

Well, now that we know this can be an issue, here's what I did/will do. I trimmed the line to reveal clean, pliable rubber...about 1/4 inch. It was slack enough on mine to reattach that. I wiped off the nipple/vent tube surface, made sure the tube was clear of obstructions, and pushed the hose on to the base. Then I took a small zip tie and cinched it down tight and trimmed the end. That's it. I will crawl under every couple of months for a while and make sure it's still attached. Another thought was if that end gets dry/brittle again, I might go further up the line and cut it, put in a black plastic tube connector and add some fresh rubber hose to it to make it long enough to reach. But, it must have lasted about 10 years from the factory before failing as mine's an '07 and I doubt it had been off for more than a year or two. It was pretty rusted in there, but I live in the Pacific Northwest for the last 5 years and we do get some moisture compared to where I lived in the high desert before. Any one else have any ideas?

 

What if after doing this, none of the 4wd works? I did this in hopes it would fix it, no change what so ever. Thanks for putting this information out though

 

Scratch that, I missed that there were two of these on this TA. Thanks for the information again.

 

So now I can hear it trying, yet nothing happens, 4hi light still blinking. It sounds kinda grindy but steady for about 1 second, maybe 2. Any recommendations?

 

So Leayeon, what exactly did you do? Can you be more specific on the steps you took? What was the condition of the motor? Was it rusty? Did you free it up and test it with a 12v battery to make sure it works? Did you align the spring tabs as shown in the pics? If you did all that and reinstalled it correctly and it still doesn’t work, I’d try the following: pull up the passenger floor carpet and disconnect the computer from power at the computer and wait several minutes to let it reboot. I’d also drive it around the block, stop, put in neutral, enage 4Hi, see if it cycles and works, put it in drive and go around the block in 4Hi. Do the same for 4Lo (but don’t go around the block...just straight for 30 yards or so). If you did all that already and/or if it still doesn’t work, It might be the front axle actuator on the differential...

 

Gday guys,
Im from Australia and I believe this is American post about Toyota Tundra. Im having similar issues with transfer actuator with my 2008 Lexus LX 570. Im wondering if the part would be the same. By the look of it it seems they are. Can anybody confirm please. By the way, @sixweeds its a great write up and if you have noticed your youtube video hits going up, it was me.

 

Scallywag. Any chance you could post a pic(s) of the transfer case actuator. One look and I could tell you. If it looks the same to you as the pics posted, I’d check to see if the vent tube is cracked
Or has come off. If so, and the actuator (either 4Hi or 4Lo), then that’s most likely your problem. Keep us posted!

 

Hey sixweeds, thanks very much, photos attached, sorry for the photos with the guard on. I will take better pic over the weekend without the guard and can send it.
I didnt see any vent, may be i couldnt get that far with the guard on.
So what happens with mine is this.... when i press the difflock button the light comes on and starts to flash. I can wait for a bit or just walk away turning ignition off the light will go off and everything is fine. I dont take it off road but when i took once it did the same thing and worked in the end. So looks like a connection issue or issue with the motor inside.
Thanks again for having a look at this.

 

The last picture, below the white tag with the “30” on it, looks like the vent tube right below it and that it is not connected.

 

Thanks, I'll get underneath and check. So, whats the function of the vent tube?

 

That's what others have referred to it as. It is just a black tube that attaches to a nipple. Mine was cracked and had come off and allowed enough moisture in the nipple to cause the motor to seize. But after freeing the motor (I took it out and freed it up and lubricated it and then resoldered it back in place and assembled as shown), I cut the vent tube a little bit to have a clean/tight fitting to the nipple. Works fine now. Also, I live in snow country as well as regularly go through a car wash with underbody spray, so those may have nocked the tube off and or contributed to more than normal ability for water to get in the actuator housing.