2020 1794 JBL Audio question

I have spent the better part of a few hours (here on the boards) reading on how bad the JBL HU is and all the problems I now face in wanting better sound out of my truck.

What I started my search with was for an AMP that would would just plug and play into the system. I assumed, wrongly apparently, that JBL would make a more powerful amp that would plug right into the system. Seems an obvious win for JBL.

I am no audiophile, but I like to hear the bass in my music and this system is giving me nothing. I would like all sound a little sharper/cleaner, without any white noise (which I don't have now and want to keep it that way). Not looking to replace the HU or the speakers.

Is there a simple way to give my OEM system a little more juice for under $300?

Appreciate any help provided. Thanks

 

https://shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=540&categoryId=124

 

Great option, I did this second. Not window rattling, but definitely more bass than the stock POS sub.

I started out though with another option...I changed out my head unit. True, the JBL factory amp is not an audiophile's dream, but a big factor on why the JBL system sucks is the signal gain from the factory radio to the factory amp. It's WAY too low. If you get an after market head unit (Kenwood, Pioneer, Tesla Android Unit, etc.), the signal gain to the amp on most of the units can be adjusted, resulting in better volume. Plus, a new head unit will give you RCA outs, which you can hook up to a dedicated sub amp in the future.

 

Appreciate the feedback. That’s just more than I am looking to at the moment. I’m only about 1/5 into my build and I didn’t expect I’d need to replace the JBL system. My last truck was an SR5 taco and that system was easily 2x better.

but, for future knowledge: if I do replace the HU, will it integrate seamlessly? Last time I went aftermarket HU was 2007 lol, I am way out of the game, and that HU was super high end and SUCKED.

 

"Seamlessly" depends on the head unit you buy...

I have the Phoenix Android HU. I love it. There's a whole thread on this forum on that unit to give you info about it, "Android Headunit". Bottom line, there is no interface between the Phoenix HU and the factory amp that you have to buy, it's pretty much plug and play. A good bit of setting adjustments may need to be done in the HU to get it exactly as you would want it for your trim level (and a good bit of knowledge about Android operating systems), so if you are NOT a tech tinkerer, it might not be your cup of tea...

The Kenwood, Pioneer, etc. HU's need to have a DSR1 interface between the HU and the factory amp to maintain steering wheel controls, and also some adapters for the GPS antenna, USB port, etc.. A little challenging to set-up, but again, plenty of threads on this forum discussing installing, and lots of members willing to help.

I would start with the single sub from tech12volts (James is an audio god), and if it still doesn't give you enough bump from the factory amp, you can always get a new HU and a dedicated sub amp in the future to put more juice to the sub. I went to two of the 10" JBL shallow mount subs with a JBL 1,000 watt amp with a remote bass knob, and it kicks noyce.

 

Currently you can't do anything with the 2020 systems. The maestro isn't updated yet im patiently waiting for them to do that so we can update our systems.

 

Maestro?

 

https://maestro.idatalink.com/product/product/product_id/102

 

Considering I just bought a Maestro DSR1 from tech12volts for my 2020....do you know this to be absolutely true that it won't work in a 2020 or are you assuming it won't based on the dropdown menu on the iDatalink webpage still only showing 2019?

 

I actually don't think the 2020 JBL is all that bad. It's not great but the real issue is there is no bass to speak of but it's clear. I too have Jame's 10" sub right now and the sound depends on the song. It ranges from really good to barely noticeable. My next step is a 5-channel amp to supply more power to the sub and door speakers.

 

RD 900/5? That’s what I’m running and I’m also very happy with it.

 

Anyone know if the Maestro DSR-1 will work in the 2020?

 

I don’t think I follow the upgrade you made. Did you keep your HU, oem amp and speakers minus the sub, add the maestro?, and an amp after the oem amp?

 

how do you plan to hook up the 5 channel amp?

 

So your nephew added the sub that is listed in post#2 and he is happy with that one yes? So if I added that and the 5 channel amp does that make it even better?

 

Yes. Way better.

 

You can't just replace the amp in jbl systems. The amp and headunit work together so the only way you can change the amp is put one in line with the existing one or change the head unit and amp.

 

DSR1 replaces the stock amp and converts the HU data/signal into RCA wires. The RCAs go to the new aftermarket 5-channel amp. Four channels power the four K170 door speakers and one channel powers the sub. The dash speakers are powered directly by the head unit.

 

The DSR1 replaces the stock JBL amp and the software "acts" like the stock JBL amp for compatibility but you do totally remove the stock amp.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Vcva0lW_6A

 

FWIW....James at Tech12Volt states he has used the Maestro DSR1 in 40-50 2020 Tundras with absolutely no problems.

 

Man!! Thanks so much for linking that. That vid explained the audio in my truck so well that even I understand it.

 

I'm convinced this is absolutely true, despite what dsr1 propaganda states. Had missing portions of the audio in a 2019 and now in the 2020 running the dsr1 without the JBL factory amp.

For those of you saying the dsr1 works perfectly -- do you use Waze through CarPlay and do you hear the nav directions and alert audio? Unmodified, my JBL system plays these through the dash speakers only (maybe only left dash), and with the dsr1 installed without the factory amp the music volume lowers for the rest of the speakers but the Waze audio does not play through. Called Rockford, called iData, emailed James, no solution. I'm going to try leaving the JBL installed to keep running dash and center from that, but running dsr1 with the speaker level inputs vs maestro harness. I'm sure that will open another string of issues, but I really want all of the audio to play. If anyone has valuable input I'd appreciate it.

 

i don’t have the JBL but tried to keep the factory Entune as well while replacing all the speakers, adding amps & subs as well....it sounded much better but with only base, treble, and mid adjustments I just couldn’t get the sound that was satisfying to me and there seemed to be music “missing”...so I switched out the head unit as well and difference was significant with with the Kenwood. Will add some cost but for me was well worth it so that would be my advice.

 

I thought dash speakers were power directly from the headunit and not at all from the stock amp (could be wrong). I haven't used audible directions in any form in any navigation system in the past 15 years so I can't answer answer your questions but I can say yes, you can just replace the JBL amp with a DSR1 and it works great although perhaps not 100% perfectly. On a scale of 0-10 for seriousness of an issue using the DSR1 the inability to play Waze directions out loud is about a 0.0001 out of 10 for me and is easily trounced by the HUGE improvement in sound.

 

Something I'm just looking into is the DSR1 has a built-in 31 band EQ as well as the ability to do positional tuning using time delays. For someone with the right gear/ear the DSR1 has a lot of features to finely tune a system. The JBL HU also only has three adjustments - my hope is the DSR1 will more than compensate for that limitation.

 

Update - James had me also piggyback the front tweeters with the front door outputs coming out of the amp - so five channels are driving 7 sets of wires and the center and R/L dash are still powered by the headunit.

 

I should have said earlier that what the dsr1 is putting out, run through an amp and decent speakers, sounds great. I know Waze audio isn't a necessity for everyone, but I've come to appreciate it. In my area folks are good about marking police locations, so it's saved me from about a dozen speeding tickets. I don't actually use the turning directions but thought others might and could tell me if they were hearing it through dsr1. Having to look at the screen constantly to watch for alerts is not something I can accept.

PWMDMD, are you sure your dash speakers are producing sound? If so, I'm stumped. We appear to have the same truck with the same harness from James. I've read several places the head unit in JBL systems does not power speaker, everything goes thru JBL amp for power. If I unplug the factory amp I get zero, including the dash L/R/Center. I have to land the wires to the new amp to get sound.

 

It would make sense that the 3 dash speakers are powered by the headunit and the 4 door speakers and sub are powered by the amp. If I were to get a new system I would get a 5 channel amp and a new head unit and just power the 3 dash speakers using that.

 

ME, it might make sense from a design standpoint for these small speakers, but i don't think that's what's happening. If you pull the three connectors from your your JBL amp, I don't think you'll have sound at the dash -- I don't. I suppose these signals could only pass through the amp with power from the head unit, but that would in effect be the same for my purposes. Everything is pointing toward a compromise of one sort or another. I'm very reluctant to change the head unit.

 

I'm positive for a few reasons:

1. James sold me a new center speaker and Rt/Lt dash speakers knowing what I was going to do

2. When I hooked up the amp I hooked up the Rt/Lt front door speakers, Rt/Lt front door tweeters (these were piggybacked into the same output as the door speakers) (Channels 1 and 2), the Rt/Lt rear door speakers (Channels 3 and 4) and the subwoofer (Channel 5). Those are the only speakers being powered by the amp and I absolutely still have sound coming from the Lt/Rt dash and center dash speakers. To my knowledge, these could only be being powered by the HU.