I've got screeching issues

My 07 tundra 5.7 has started giving me a half second screech when I turn the key, most times it still starts and the screech stops and it doesn't happen again the rest of the day. Sometimes after the screech the truck doesn't start I turn the key again and it does. I thought it could be the belt so I changed it but still get the screen and sometimes doesn't start. Any ideas

 

I suspect your starter solenoid is old, has weakened, and is not engaging the starter to flex plate gear with youthful vigor.

Welcome to Tundras.com.

 

I put a new starter in it last year do you think it would go bad so soon?

 

DIY or shop technician? Toyota remanufactured, or PartsRUs remanufactured? Short answer...Yes, it's possible. It's possible it may have lasted a week, or been DOA, if it were PartsRUs reman.

Understand that if a starter solenoid is functional, it will be reused in the re-manufacturing. No testing is done beyond exterior visual inspection to determine if the solenoid winding insulation is breaking down and the solenoid is approaching end of life. If you received a warranty, it was probably for 90 days.

 

I had a shop do it. Looked way too complicated for me. Don't know where they got the part from but I did have to take it back a week later for them to reconnect the ground wire that "worked its way loose" and shorted out on the side of the starter

 

Toyota dealers will probably cost a little more in labor. Regardless who does the work, I would specify Toyota parts (new or reman considering cost) if I were having the work done. Possibly even bring the part to an independent shop...If they aren't happy with that, C'ya.

Independent shops make the labor dollars, plus they get PartRUs reman at a commercial discounted rate or wholesale. The sweet spot for them is buy cheap, charge you the Toyota price, and hope that it lasts until they can legitimately say, "It wasn't our fault". Some have integrity and will stand behind their work, most will be afflicted with the "human condition".

 

I called the place a few mins ago. They said bring it in they will check it out. They have life time warrant on parts but 90 days on labor. Of course it was past 90 days ago haha. That's if it is the starter.

 

If it's the starter, and you plan to keep the truck a long time, have them buy the replacement at a local Toyota dealer and provide a receipt. Labor for that job won't be cheap...reason enough to buy only high quality parts.

 

Yeah the labor was like 600 last time and I paid ≈850 total. Starter was about 250 I believe from them

 

For comparison: https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-starter-281000s050?c=Zz1lbGVjdHJpY2FsJnM9c3RhcnRlciZsPTMmbj1Bc3NlbWJsaWVzIFBhZ2UmYT10b3lvdGEmbz10dW5kcmEmeT0yMDA3JnQ9c3I1JmU9NS03bC12OC1nYXM=

Dealer list is $254.16, TOCS online price $171.90. One year warranty. Of course, shipping will eat up the savings big time (Forum shipping discount from TOCS). I suspect that is a Toyota remanufactured starter, but I could be wrong. In your place, once the diagnosis is confirmed, I would be leaning toward ordering the starter online from @Roman, and then shop around for cheapest replacement labor.

If you don't plan to keep the truck long, then let your guy install another PartsRUs starter, pay the labor money again, and call it done.

 

10-4 thanks for your input. I've been cussing and discussing upgrading to a newer year but I hear so much good about the 07 models. I've seen the million mile videos as well. I've got 236,000 or so on mine

 

I can identify with you. Having an issue on a vehicle you like doesn’t help your attitude sometimes.

Keep your chin up, it’s not the end of the world. You still have a good engine and transmission!

I would talk to the shop and see if they are willing to make things right. Maybe they have options with the parts suppliers,and can help lessen the burden on you financially.

I don’t really know,I’m just trying to be optimistic!

Seems to me though,if they already had to re-do a ground wire,then they should step up to the plate since that shows there were prior issues.

Again,I know nothing but hope the best for you!

 

Yeah I'll go talk to them and see what kind of a deal we can work out if it is the starter. Thanks again for your input and ideas

 

Wasn't the starter. They changed it out and still had the same problem. Took it back and they couldn't figure anything out. So oo. I traded it in for a used 2014 platinum this weekend. Nice truck 84,000miles. Guess what. It has the same issue. I started it this morning and it almost didn't start. Clicked on me a few times screeched and finally started. It has what is possible the original battery in it maybe I need to replace it. Do you guys think it could be an alternator problem?

 

I would start by putting a new battery in there. I saw your other post and you said it’s OEM original. Start there. It’s done

 

10-4 thats what I was thinking when I saw it had the battery from 14 on it. That just makes me worry I traded in my 07 because a battery issue. I did just put a new one in that truck in December though. But I could have gotten a bad one I supoose

 

I don’t know about the battery being a problem on your other truck. But since you said this one was clicking and almost didn’t start, that’s a definite battery issue in my eyes. The squeal could’ve come from the alternator struggling right out of the gate. On your previous truck, I would’ve been looking at any pulleys and Tensioners. One way that I used to find out if a pulley was squeaking, was to individually spray WD-40 around each pulley. Start the truck and see if the noise changed, turn off the truck and try another one and repeat the process. It would only be a temporary fix but sometimes if it changed the noise a little bit it could steer me in the right direction. Not a guarantee but worth a shot.

 

Yeah when the screen first started on the pld truck I replace the belt thinking that would solve the issue but didn't have and luck. And the screen only lasted for a fraction of a second right as it started. The new one is doing exactly the same thing. Yesterday morning only screeched. Ran and started regular the rest of the day. It sat over night then this morning did the clicks then screeched and started I did hit a gas station and got it a second time but it started fine again when I got to work and shut it off then restarted it

 

Those momentary squeaks are really hard to track down. Probably nothing to worry about other than being a little annoying.

 

I wouldn't really be worried about it except when it also doesn't want to start. Sometimes it starts with a screech sometimes it clicks a bunch then just barely starts but still give a screech. Then when its been driven already it starts God with no issue at all

 

The fact that professional technicians confirmed the starter diagnosis, then changed the starter, then changed it AGAIN when the problem persisted, indicates to me that your 2007 truck actually had a starter problem. They might have taken advantage of you to change a perfectly good starter the first time, but they would not have done it again on their labor dime if they knew the problem was actually a dead/weak battery. The fact that they couldn't figure out the problem, however, might suggest incompetency. I believe you should quit worrying about trading a perfectly good truck because of a dead battery. Sounds like you found yourself a really nice above-average 2014.

During startup, screeching noise may come from the serpentine drive belt, but that is due to high startup RPM. It occurs as the engine roars to life, not during cranking. That noise is not unusual, and is not necessarily an indication of malfunction.

My experience is that as traditional battery power drops, you will have decreasing cranking speed, and shorter cranking time, until it just stops cranking altogether, and starts clicking. Recent Toyota batteries (2016+) tend to fail suddenly by dead cells (non-conductance) rather than slowly fading away. Your older 2007 and 2014 battery was/is more likely to fail by fading away rather than a dead cell. With dead cell failures, my experience is you don't get any cranking, maybe not even clicking.

Having said that, the first thing a professional should check when experiencing failure to crank, or cranking issues, is the battery. With the engine not running, the battery should have 13.6V or more volts, 14+ with the engine running. Alternators, while they do have problems, are highly reliable compared to a battery, which is a consumable, wear and tear item. Alternators should be checked out only after the battery condition has been eliminated as a cause.

 

If I could’ve given your post a heart, I would’ve LMFAO.

 

Thanks for the input. Yeah I'm voting for incompetent shop on the old one. It did need a new starter last year. When they replaced it they didn't hook up the wires properly and I had to take it back a week later to have that fixed. Only reason I went back this time was because if it was the starter again it was under warranty. This time the first day they said it was low on oil(which it wasn't) and that's what caused the screech. I started it again with a screech after they added oil anyway so they decided it was the starter and changed it out because it had a life time warranty. It still had the screech so they decided they couldn't do anything for it. I traded it in for the 14 model that night

 

Think I said too much? Probably could have shortened it to the last paragraph.

 

Nope, it was perfect!

 

I just put a new battery in it. It shows 13.8 running and 12.9ish not running. The old battery was at 12.1 after work before I started it and got down to 11 before I turned the key all the way. It didn't start the first time but did the second try. Went right to the Orileys and got the new one. So I guess watch it and see if it drains and if it does i see what's draining it

 

Well 3 days later new battery is running at 14.5 amps while running and 12.7 give or take after sitting all night or day while I'm at work. Hasn't screeched any more and is starting on the first try with no clicks. Truck is running great and liking it more every time I get in it. Found the adjustable headlight dial last night. That's pretty neat

 

Consider putting a smart charger on it overnight (link). Your alternator may eventually charge the battery up to full capacity, but the battery should be close to 13.6 volts with the engine not running. Leaving your battery in undercharged condition will lead to sulfation and shortened battery life. Depending on how long the battery was on the shelf in charged condition, it may need desulfation anyway. Charger below automatically tests for charge and condition, and desulfates when necessary.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FRLO9Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

I had thought about a trickle charger or something like that. Would I use that for a few nights just at night time or hook it up and leave it for a while?