Secondary Air Injection Pump failure

The bypass was life saver for me. The stealership wanted $1600 to fix the aip and my go to shop wanted $1200. I thought I only paid $200 for the bypass kit but I could be mistaken

 

How does that answer my question when you’ve previously stated “how is anyone supposed to answer that question?” Always one of you on every forum.

 

Always one of you too.

Googling aip failures will enable you to educate yourself about the system and get a general idea of how they fail

It will also connect you with people who have had this failure and you can ask them questions about it

There is plenty of information out there on this topic. But asking us "What is the likelihood of the AIP system failing?" no one can answer that question. You will just have to decide for yourself how likely it is. One way you can help yourself to make that decision is to GOOGLE

 

If your pumps are working when the bypass is installed there is no need to install the blockoff plates. The blockoff plates are only required if the pump has already failed stuck open and not repaired. Given that yours was just repaired, it's a great time to plug and play the bypass, ignore the blockoffs, and never worry about this issue again. There are other cheaper options to save some dough if $400 is the only downside, I run slyfox homemade system for under $50 on my 07 with no blockoffs, buddies 4.7 with no blockoffs, and my old 07 4runner 4.7 with blockoffs only because I had the headers off, same idea as the $15 relay people are talking about above.

 

Thank you Leo, I was looking for an answer like that. As far as Focal’s question, I think he’s wondering the same thing as I am, if we bypass the system and the SAIS is unused for a period of time, if we then want to return the vehicle to stock and remove the bypass for one reason or another, can the system have failed while it was bypassed and now we are stuck needing a repair anyway?

 

I dont mean to post this as an "end all to beat all" solution but I had this issue on my 2007. Code P2442. Read all the threads and saw where the real solution is $2500 or more and a bypass hit was about $200. Didn't have the cash lying around for the real deal repair but I had this little code reader by Veepeak so I reset the codes and the truck ran fine till the next day when the codes returned and limp mode started back up. So I reset the codes again, several times over the next day or two. That was close to two weeks ago and the codes have not returned. No idea how long it will last but for $20 for a code reader that you need on hand anyway it is worth a try.

 

The first time I reset the code I got six weeks out of it, then a week, then a couple days and then everyday. I think once it throws a code it’s only a matter of time.

 

Quick update for anyone interested. I ordered and received my Gen 2 bypass kit this week and installed it today. Overall it wasn’t too difficult, but the instructions and diagrams show a Lexus install which is different from a Tundra. Some vehicle specific instructions or added notes would cut down on the second guessing for some. Like one of the first steps
Is to remove the AIP control/driver. Well the diagram shows one driver with two plugs. My truck has two drivers and four plugs. Which one do I remove? Well both of them is the answer and replace them with the single unit in the kit. But that isn’t explained, I just had to second guess myself, google it and find nothing, continue with the install and hope for the best.
The block off plates have been left for another day. I attempted to install and was surprised at how easy the bolts came off, but man those stainless steel pipes are rigid and do not have much give even with the bracket removed. I almost had one in but the bolt seemed to be going in at a bad angle. I was loosing daylight and my hands were going numb from the cold so I decided to abort mission since my system is actually working fine at the moment and this is a pre emotive strike.
At one time in life I was an entry level mechanic and always a back yard extraordinaire lol. Maybe my skills have dropped off, but I’ll get those plates in someday when the weather is warmer, even though it seems I don’t need them. Hopefully this is it for me with this ridiculous issue. Thanks to everyone who chimed in.

 

I think you got the wrong set of instructions mine were spot on

In any case, on the block plates, I attached a ratchet strap to the tube and that made it a lot easier to separate it just enough to slip the plate in

But I have jba headers, I don't remember what the oem headers look like for the block off plate

 

If yours were spot on then mine were definitely wrong. They actually showed a Lexus engine cover in mine. Judging by the method you used for the block offs I’m guessing you have a 5.7 motor. Mine is the 4.6 which might explain the different instructions. On the 4.6 the block offs are both above the valve covers, right at the Air Injector Valves.

 

Fired up the Truck yesterday. No codes and no sucking sounds from the pumps haha

@hewitttech kit works great

 

I noticed this morning no sucking sound from the pumps. First time the truck has been that quiet on a cold startup. It was noticeable

 

I'm reaching out to the community for help in Northern New Jersey. I have a 2008 Sequoia with 99,700 miles that has the SAIS problem that started two weeks ago. This truck has been good to me and since I'm a big guy, it fits me well. I'm kind of lucky (so far) that my code is P2443, valve stuck closed but that can change. I got the Hewitt kit and the built quality is nice.
My problem is that I'm somewhat disable and can't put the kit in. I'm not capable of getting back behind the intake manifold or bend to do the plates. I have been to 12 different garages, called 4-wheel places, etc. and no one will do it.
I'm asking if anyone knows of someone who can help me with this. I'm not looking for charity and am willing and happy to pay for your or anyones time.
Thanks in advance.

 

Those connectors are a real PITA haha

I would do it for you but I live in SoCal. I'm sure there is someone on this site close to you who would be willing to help out.

I would suggest calling small independent mechanics that are familiar with Toyotas. A small shop might be willing to help

 

Thanks osidepunker, I appreciate the gesture.

 

JTX,

I bought my tundra in limp mode because of the same issue you’re having. I bought the kit from Hewitt Tech and have been driving the truck for 2 years with ZERO issues and no more codes or check engine light! I highly recommend their bypass kit!

 

I did the trumpet delete mod. Added about 13 ponies off the line. You can really feel the .8oz weight savings.

 

How long have you been running it this way?

 

Since early April, 2020. My problem was bank 2 valve stuck open. Thanks to this forum and others, I got a general idea of the problem (crappy air filter leads to corrosion and/or gunk in valve). So I started with the air pumps. They weren't throwing codes, but they were nasty looking. In the picture, you can see the red/brown filter gunk and a chipped impeller tooth.


So, knowing that my pumps' filter had disintegrated, I jerry rigged a breather filter from OreillyZone. Pump issue resolved (I hope).

Then the valve. See below.


I didn't do the bypass kit. I replaced the valve. One of the local Oreillyzones had it in stock.
Cleared the codes and been problem free ever since. Knock on wood.

 

Nice, may look into doing something like this for upkeep... I haven't seen this issue, knock on wood, and I've done some off the wall stuff, like splashing through large puddles, and mudding (3cm of standing water on dirt LOL).. can't hurt to clean it out and do preventative maintenance... mind sharing the valve part number from Oreilly's??

 

I like your ingenuity. I bought a new SDHQ relocation kit from @T-Rex266 for a sweet price. My AIP's were still good. The SDHQ kit does pretty much what you did but the kit comes with adapters and aircraft grade hoses with little K&N's that get routed up into the engine bay and attached behind the washer fluid tank. Much quieter when relocated inside the engine bay...

 

There used to be a YouTube vid where a guy took his AIP's apart. Strangely enough it's usually only one pump that gets fouled. Forget which one. Yep...sometimes a good cleaning can restore the pumps to working condition. That's my plan if that issue ever comes up. Don't really expect it to. Knock on wood...

 

makes 2

 

This kit is not on their website. At least I couldn't find it. Maybe it's under a different model than the Tundra? Has it been discontinued for some reason?

 

I would call them. If you Google SDHQ Tundra AIP Relocation kit it comes up with a link to where it's located on their website. Weird....

 

its there, I just looked too...
https://sdhqoffroad.com/collections...uilt-secondary-air-intake-pump-relocation-kit

 

That is weird cuz did what you suggested and here it is.

https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/07...uilt-secondary-air-intake-pump-relocation-kit

 

It's a pricey kit but made of high quality materials and keeps you legal for those that worry about that. Some states are pretty strict about modifying emission systems and the fine can be yuge. Colorado isn't too bad now, but we will be adhering to Kali's emissions soon enough. Playing it safe and glad I did it.


Edit......waiting for clarification on the "legal" definition from SDHQ. I'm not concerned at all here in CO but Kali for example is quite strict when it comes to emission systems. It comes down to what "modification" is.......this particular kit doesn't affect the AIP system function per se since it only relocates the two pump's air intakes into the engine bay with air filters and "should" improve longevity of the AIP system, especially when the pump's original air intake location is highly susceptible when exposed to severe humidity, or offroading in wet conditions, etc. It certainly doesn't degrade the system. To me....a flaw that needed to be corrected by Toyota.

 

Its not legal in a state like CA. Modifying any component of an emission system with a part that is not CARB approved renders the whole system not legal

 

That's why it's best to call SDHQ to see if the kit is compliant with your state. A total bypass kit fooling the ECM would definitely fail in most states if caught.