1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

I put 6-700 miles on the truck since installing the catch can. I was curious if anything was in there since many said it wasn’t worth the trouble. I’m due for an oil change so this time around I will wait the 5k miles before emptying again.

 

I was thinking about this last night. I think I will have both varieties on hand for those locations. If the neo-wedges don't work I'll put in OEM incandescents. Sending back whichever doesn't work.

Waiting on bulbs to arrive before I get into tearing things apart. This one should prove to be tricky.

 

For all in the group:​

I ordered a variety pack of bulbs with good reviews in case anyone asks about the drivers side window switch swap. Multiple colors to choose from. Let me know something.

Currently I've only done the Access cab switch. I have a plan in the works to experiment with the Double cab switch on the cheap.

 

Since I’m here, if anyone wants to upgrade there sound I have a few things for sale.
Meridian 556 2 channel amp $850
Linn LK100 2 channel amp $350
MIT AVT-1 8ft speaker cable pair $300

 

I'm pretty sure the battery indicator light cannot be led as well. @Tundra2

 

T5/74 led trim job is a succes with leds I had on hand. Still worked even though I trimmed off some of the end.

Leaves about 5mm of contact surface for twist sockets.

 

If your cluster lens is real bad here is option b

 

I don't think its that bad, but I will save this post for future reference.

I only really notice the scratches in the correct light. I've only wiped the lens down with a new, clean micro-fiber. Can't say the same for the previous "owner."

I'm sure yamashita, the original purchaser would have kept it twice as immaculate as PHMs at all times.

 

Have you tried a 5,000 grit wet sand and finish it with a polish cream? Similar to headlight cleaning

 

I haven't done anything yet. I think @shifty` had a good suggestion, but I'm open to all ideas. My first time polishing plastic, or anything. I want the bulbs to be here before I pull everything apart again.

Tear down once, polish once, cry once.

Been perusing here or there for T5/74 led bulbs that are not polarity sensitive. Not sure if such a critter exists, but if they do it would save me some trouble. Especially since some of the lights I plan on replacing aren't as easy to activate as the back lights.

 

I've got a similar one in my cluster for the backlighting. For the one bulb behind the speedo that takes the 74 you'll want to dab some black paint on that top chip or you'll have a bright spot right there.

 

Really, Novus is super-flexible. You could just use Novus 3 one or maybe two passes, then follow-up with Novus 2 once, then spray and buff with Novus 1, skipping wet sanding entirely. It will get rid of 99% of the scratches, as you'll see here.

However, when you read what I wrote you must know, I am an OCD, anal-retentive SOB and I want nothing less than perfection at the end, even if it takes 3x longer. I'm almost always that guy. Click on the link in my signature and look at the condition of my truck and you'll see roughly what I mean, just know I'm not done yet

This is the main reason I choose to wet-sand in multiple stages before hitting it with the Novus products, I want 100% smooth, not 99%. Your truck may not warrant that level of detail, that's for you to decide. 99% is light years better than what your lens is today. After doing dozens of acrylic turntable lids, nothing rustles the jimmies of my OCD worse than finishing my Novus 2 step only to see a single faint scratch, causing me to start over on a step.

I can't stress enough, though - The Novus kit is fabulous. It blows away the regular one-step automotive products and many other polishing products like Brasso when it comes to clear plastics. Novus 3 is their coarse polish. Novus 2 is their fine polish. Novus 1 is a clarifier and sealant treatment of sorts. I don't know what it's selling for on big huzzah huzzah right now, but it's worth every penny.

Whatever you do, ignore the videos you'll see of people pouring copious amounts onto acrylic and plastics then buffing. It's totally overkill. I can get away with using a small capful of product for each pass and get the results of people dumping 3-4x as much on their stuff.

The most important part is to thoroughly clean beforehand, always use different CLEAN towels for each step, never mix/match towels used with different levels of product.

 

I hope the car works out for you! I'l drive it to Indiana for you.

I told my oldest son when he turned 14 we'd get him an older car and fix it up together. I was hoping he'd pick a 3rd gen 4runner, but he's in love with the MR2 spyder. They pop up in Denver from time to time in decent shape for under $4,000.

I test drove a 2003 celica 6 speed gt-s a few weeks ago and forgot how much fun a manual is. Someday...

 

Mr2 is probably the last car I’d want a kid to have. But as long as he knows the dangers of the designs tendency to snap oversteer he’s good

 

Didn’t Toyota address the snap oversteer around 93’ish?

 

Don’t start talking manual 4 bangers, I really miss my S2000. So much fun and definitely not the car for a youngster, they will get in all kinds of trouble

 

I really miss the 05 base taco I had, it was only 2wd but a lot of fun. I only had to replace the WP in the 60k+ miles I put on it, sold it at like 110k to the dealer that I bought it from, for 3k over blue book! It was great!

 

Made it better but they still do it if your not use to how a mid engine drives

 

Love the MR2! They’re already stupid expensive out here. This beauty just came up on CL a few days ago...
<24K miles!

 

I’m disappointed. Guy went a looked at it for me. The cars a salvage title. Even if I get a rebuilt title my insurance won’t insure rebuilt cars

 

Really!? That sucks. The title is listed as clean in the ad. Fn liars!

 

Received a labor only price ($2100) for installing:

1) Timing belt/WP

2) All front 3 front engine Sensors.

3) Alternator

4) Rad and Hoses

5) Oil Cooler Hoses

6) Fan Clutch

7) Cam Seals and drive seal.

*** They provide Toy LL Coolant and shop supplies.

Parts are around $1700 in addition to labor which will be provided to them from their parts dept through their programme.

 

Oh no not that car lok

 

@bmf4069 I thought you had a build page. Was looking for it to pull up that pic of your Intake Manifold Removed for study purposes.

Is there Coolant Fluid Draining involved in this? Can those intake ports and valves be cleaned safely while on the block portion? Feather Duster or Brillo Pad?

Anyone else?

 

If you want another one, my FIL in Miami has a silver-grey convertible S2000, manual, he's original owner, I think under 40k on the clock? Despite the mileage they have driven it regularly into town and back, dealership maintained. Oh, and best part, it's lived its entire life in a covered parking deck, so no significant sun/rain/hail damage. Top is original and probably needs replacement.

I told him I'll be pissed at him if he doesn't give me first crack, but the more I think about it, the less I want it. I can ask him if he's interested in selling. He knows what he's got, though, so I reckon he'll charge A+ premium price.

 

Thats a sexy sounding engine and exhaust on the S2000. The headlights are sweet, too.

 

https://youtu.be/OQSNhk5ICTI​

 

I really love luxury sports car the most but little 4 bangers are fun. Honda took that up a notch with the S2000 and once you get acclimated it’s now 1 of my all time favorites. I had the 2000 which many dislike because of the snap oversteer but I tamed it by swapping out the rear sway for a 09 CR and fortune auto digressive coilovers. I wish I could buy another one but unfortunately I’m just really focused on retiring in the next 5-7 years. If I can pull that off then I just might be ready, hopefully I can find something like what you are talking about. Clean and well cared for machine

 

we lost power last winter for 5 days, lost all the food in freezer and fridge
homeowner's cut us a check for $400 and did not touch our rate