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Leak: Oil pan or crankshaft seal?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by MrAristo, Sep 24, 2020.

  1. Sep 24, 2020 at 12:29 PM
    #1
    MrAristo

    MrAristo [OP] Hounty Bunter

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    Sup everyone, noticed my truck started leaking some oil (was inevitable eventually) and this is where it’s coming from, leaks a bit much. It’s either the crank seal or oil pan gasket... which I pray it isn’t, that requires lifting the motor to remove all the bolts from what I’ve heard.

    Any input/experience?

    8AABE219-594F-43EB-A198-7AEA45991856.jpg
     
    Last edited: Sep 24, 2020
  2. Sep 24, 2020 at 1:40 PM
    #2
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Might be from one of 3 areas, or a combination:

    1) Oil Pump O-Ring. A .50c rubber ring that requires engine to be pulled to replace.

    2) Crank Seal.

    3) Cam Seal(s).

    I have a weep around this area, but up higher around the TB Tensioner. Yours looks like a drip. Hope its NOT the O-Ring/Oil Pump for the both of us. I’m doing my TB Replace and will know more in a few days.
     
    MrAristo[OP] likes this.
  3. Sep 24, 2020 at 7:49 PM
    #3
    MrAristo

    MrAristo [OP] Hounty Bunter

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    Starting to think it’s my gasket, had a couple buddies feel the same. I’ve also seen a few owners who’ve experienced gasket leaks after switching over to synthetic oil, which throws me in as I did the first change since owning it myself about 6k miles ago... food for thought for you all.. not to mention it looks like previous owner didn’t use FIPG.

    Does dropping the pan REALLY involving lifting the engine? Cmon Toyota..
     
  4. Sep 25, 2020 at 5:42 AM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    How many miles on your engine?
     
  5. Sep 25, 2020 at 5:43 AM
    #5
    MrAristo

    MrAristo [OP] Hounty Bunter

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  6. Sep 25, 2020 at 5:45 AM
    #6
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Looks like the drip is dropping straight down from crank seal.
     
  7. Sep 25, 2020 at 6:33 AM
    #7
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Check the name tag. You're in my world now.

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    You could always try the Mobile 1 High Mileage that supposedly has something that helps the gaskets. I've been using that in our Rav4 which was leaking from the rear main. It hasn't leaked since. I use it in my Tundra also. Or switch back to conventional and see if it stops.
     
  8. Sep 25, 2020 at 9:04 AM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  9. Sep 25, 2020 at 9:15 AM
    #9
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  10. Sep 25, 2020 at 9:35 AM
    #10
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer Vinyl Spinner

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    Clean the area, especially above the area and to the right as pictured, then check for the source of the leak after every drive.
     
  11. Sep 25, 2020 at 9:49 AM
    #11
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    How can he clean the area above when its blocked by the Timing Belt Cover? He’d have to remove everything to get to that spot. By then you’d better plan on replacing TB and all Cam Seals due to the enormity of the job.

    I have Aces up my sleeve(s) for the possibility of an Oil Pump Leak (without engine removal-ain’t happening:D) part of which is to tighten the Oil Pump bolts down. This would be similar to a Valve Cover tightening except I have a separate trump card I might use and will reveal this when the time becomes necessary for a win. :D

    Won’t know until I get the golden hands in there to feel where the Mojo will take me. :yes:
     
  12. Sep 25, 2020 at 10:06 AM
    #12
    Rex Kramer

    Rex Kramer Vinyl Spinner

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    Don't remove anything.
    Spray de-greaser or Simple green on what is visible below, and spray again up top around the valve cover. Spray enough so that gravity has it running down the front of the block. Hit it with the hose after allowing it to soak in and the surfaces should be clean enough to notice where the leak is coming from.
     
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  13. Sep 25, 2020 at 2:24 PM
    #13
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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  14. Aug 14, 2021 at 9:45 PM
    #14
    two2cal

    two2cal New Member

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    Did you guys figure out your leak/weep?
    I ran into this today. I’m contemplating pulling the oil pump and resealing. Not sure though. I m gonna clean it with degreaser in the am.
    From the way it’s starting up higher it could just be bad water pump gasket I hope.

    70CCF17B-0FA7-4FA0-A1B5-D721CB701642.jpg
     
  15. Aug 14, 2021 at 9:58 PM
    #15
    mbreed2

    mbreed2 Is not right

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    Above the crank just looks like rubber dust.
     
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  16. Feb 18, 2022 at 1:22 PM
    #16
    NotecsonlyMechanics

    NotecsonlyMechanics New Member

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    All hoses and gaskets that is needed to keep oil in. Cleaned oil sending unit. And hoses all around oil filter Valve cover gasket Why would I modify I just want the truck to stop sqeeking I know the belt tensioner I do have a half cat back cherry bomb open wide exhaust and KnN air filter and rerouted my transmission fluid I don’t like milkshakes
     
  17. Feb 18, 2022 at 1:34 PM
    #17
    NotecsonlyMechanics

    NotecsonlyMechanics New Member

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    All hoses and gaskets that is needed to keep oil in. Cleaned oil sending unit. And hoses all around oil filter Valve cover gasket Why would I modify I just want the truck to stop sqeeking I know the belt tensioner I do have a half cat back cherry bomb open wide exhaust and KnN air filter and rerouted my transmission fluid I don’t like milkshakes
    Lol why and who told you the motor needs lifted to simply drop an oil pan from the engine. Maybe you misunderstand it probably suggesting lifting the truck for better clearance and work space. On reason a motor mush be lifted is of the mounts are bad and so bad it’s out of line with the transmission or vices versa. Transmission support goes and any Drive train related support repairs should and will need lifting one or both to line them back up from engine to trans to diff. To get max torque to the rear wheels. I’ve seen you tube mechanics just put some rubber seal on mounts or suspension parts and wait for it to harden. With out jacking up with the sunken components. And wondering what that clunk is. But ignore it because at least the shaking is gone and stiffness of the overall feel. Makes them think job well done until the gears strip and that’s when they knew they done mess up. And the YouTube mechanic that showed them DIY on major drive is easy as 124. Anyway no disrespect and I know a lot of that was not related. I just wanted to point out the problem with misinformation on the internet. Before you follow a channel on how to do your do Diligence. If they say f*ck up your truck like me at your own risk. As a disclaimer. And if they don’t take responsibility for the content they spread. Shows lack of confidence and they prob aren’t a good act to follow. Good luck god speed
     
  18. Feb 18, 2022 at 10:16 PM
    #18
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 Zoinked

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