What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Could you have rebuilt the alternator instead of replacing? @Professional Hand Model

 

You just use an air hose or did you actually wipe everything down or use some kind of spray cuz my EB need a good dusting and cleaning

 

finally had time ....or I say I had time more like the energy (stayed up till like 1am after working all day) .......got the bedliner sprayed and the roof sprayed as well ....cleaned off all the over spray ....don’t have a pic but even got the tool box loaded and bolted back in it this afternoon .....next paycheck goes towards some bills but the one after that is going towards the raptor liner spray kit for the rest of the body ....then it’s on to the headlights/ tail lights ( can honestly say this truck has been my absolute favorite to drive and the one that’s got me more into mechanical and automotive hobbies )

 

So 30 hrs of PHM labor, which includes labeling each nut and bolt, retapping all the threads, an array of different feather dusters, and going through 30 different pairs of gloves (can't let the oils ruin the hand mojo!), that should equate to about 10 normal people hours.

Or 40 for me, since I'll end up snapping a cam in half somehow then have to do an engine rebuild...

 

Just basic bucket of soapy water and wipe down with a throwaway microfiber towel. Only did an Engine Bay wipedown, the engine itself didn't get degreased or anything.

I was thinking of wiping it down plastics with some Aerospace 303, but haven't gotten around to it.

 

The things already mentioned:

1) The wiring harness not being routed properly behind the AC Bracket.

2) The missing fan shroud.

The newly discovered things:

1) No missing nuts/bolts! Although one nut behind the fan clutch was substituted for another. The OEM has flanges. Goofy substituted a non flange regular. He probably dropped it and it disappeared into that frame area. Thought someone might see it in the backward Gates Belt pic above.

2) Looked like he didn’t clean the water pump flange very well of the old rubber and then used sealer over it with the new gasket? It wasn’t leaking so it was sealed, but little chunks were squeezed into the WP area and explains some of the debris I would notice on occasion. I’m sure the Flow of Water Mojo was affected by 5%.

3) Goofy used water pump sealer on the Crank Nut as a thread lock.

I can overlook everything as the engine ran nicely. The Crank Sensor Wire getting nicked torques me, though. It is easy to forget the routing in the process as I did not route it proper before putting the AC Bracket back. I thought about it for a second and then just fed the wires though the bracketry even though its tight and cumbersome, but can be done if you are careful NOT to pinch and pull the little wires.

 

Yes I could have I suppose. Actually thought about doing so, but glad I didn’t based on the amount of corrosion. You can see all the corrosion built up on mine. I suppose Denso washes all the old parts after disassembly and checks everything on their Remans. Money well spent on the Denso Reman.

 

That 30 includes all the parts list making and Rad Flushing Time (consuming doing it properly by draining the engine block).

Key note: The Valve Cock on the driver side doesn’t need to be drained if you pull the Coolant Hose at the oil filter. The Coolant has a straight drop right there. You still need to open the pass side Valve though which holds about 1/2 gallon in the block!

 

Yep. That shroud should be directing air like a funnel. Without the bottom rad shroud piece, the air was sloppily directed towards the skid plate. Almost like a compound issue of bad direction and the funnel suction being reduced.

Looking at the FSM got me thinking about those rubber/foam strips. My bottom one is shrunk (gapping air) and goofy didn’t put the old one back on top when replacing new radiator. At first I thought they might be for vibration, but then it hit me that they are to stop hot engine bay heated air from recirculation back into the front of the radiator. I put my hands (gasp) near those slots and the hot air blow back is huge.

I can see where idling at a stop how the engine temp would rise a little due to the sloppy air. Driving at speed would make no difference as the air is forced into the bay at speed.

As aftermarket thought, I added a couple of foam stops down near the bottom corners of the rad against the frame as tons of heated blow back was coming around them where the skid plate meets. Makes a big difference. Used Rubber Armaflex at top of rad, bottom of rad, and little bottom side corners ($7 for one strip from bigbox). I’ll post pics later.

 

It's been brought up in older threads, but is there any value to an electric fan mod?

 

Not sure as I’ve never had one. My radiator has stayed steady in the 195-200° range in the heat of summer at all speeds since monitoring began a few months ago.

Ran the monitor today for the first time and she was in the 183-186° range. Albeit, the ambient temps are around 72° today so its not a fair comparison.

Per the electric fans: From my readings, many were chasing overheating problems or created electrical problems with these fans. Separately, I remember a guy having overheat problems and discovered someone (prior owner) had mangled the radiator shroud to fit an electric fan and then switched back to a regular fan. The shroud mangle messed up the air flow and was fixed with a new shroud.

 

Couple of pics of the Armaflex Sealing.

 

@Professional Hand Model did you order the Denso radiator off Big Gurl or somewhere else? Curious how well it was packaged.

 

Ball busting aside, you did your due diligence and did a proper job, fixing many hacks in the process. I know you did everything 100% to spec and did a great job.

Ball busting time: if you do your next money comparison thing you do, and decide to sell, me and the crew are gonna fly to St Barts and poke you with sticks.

 

Its all good!

I’m underwater on her right now on paper in all regards other than if having sold her 2 years ago. Still sitting around $300 a month for the past 2.5 years after doing nothing for 16 years.

Back on track, I returned my core for the Alternator ($75). Chapter closed on this job.

 

So what's next on the list?

 

Ordered from Stealer Programme. Packaged very well. Same price as big gurrrl ($140ish).

 

Nothing major at this point. Long term some new rear springs and some Morimoto LED Projectors once the funds allow.

 

A blurry shot of the Alternator to Neg Post Redundant Ground Wire.

 

I'm afraid to buy any Denso stuff off Amazon these days.

 

That's why I was asking. When I ordered that Denso radiator from Amazon last year it came loose in a box with zero packaging material and dented fins. I sent it back. It sounds like the dealership program knows how to ship them correctly.

 

is that a Half-Life sticker?

 

@Professional Hand Model how did the old timing belt look, still decent, starting to develop cracks? How about the water pump, crusty?

 

Buy it from the Denso Store on that site. Everything I’ve gotten from the Denso Store has been awesome. Denso dot com even links you to that Denso Store on big Gurrl so its legit.

Some stuff is the same price from Stealer, but other Denso stuff you can save $$$.

Ignition Coils, and o2 Sensors I saved ton$.

Hitachi (OEM Toyota) makes a great MAF Sensor. Bought that from their Hitachi big gurrl site. Had the Toyota Stamping, but was scratched off for trademark purposes.

 

Good to hear about the Denso store, I will keep that in mind.

I had a Hitachi tv that lasted forever, it never even failed just became super outdated. I didn't realize they were in the car parts game until 2 years ago when I found Hitachi coil packs for my VW. They've been very good so far.

 

Belt looked fine. No cracks. Still hanging up on a nail and I’ll grab a pic later. Water pump seemed fine. No grindy like the fan bracket and tensioner pulley. Probably could have put off this job in retrospect for another 1-2 years, but who knows when that Alternator would have gone bad? That right there is a $1000 stealer job easy and would probably happen at a bad time requiring emergency repair.

What I did was get ahead of that and spent $1500 total in parts and 3 days of my time.

Feeling good about this new tensioner/fan clutch/shroud correction/heavy duty belt. The air flow is nice now.

Lastly, I wanted to see where this oil weep was emanating. Thought it was the Cam Seals or Crank Seal, but confirmed its the Oil Pump O-Ring similar to that Otramm youtubes vid where they had to pull the engine to replace the .50c o-ring. I’ll post up a pic of what I did to hopefully stop the leak and/or divert it to the sides of engine versus going into the Crank Gear area which had some cakey build up at the lower drain port. Oil on the timing belt is not good.

 

Peace of mind is priceless and you were rewarded with the satisfaction of not only accomplishing a significant task, but knowing it was done the right way.

 

Cracked open the old fan clutch just to see inside.

 

Took the chrome mirror caps off my SR5 and color-matched them along with the chrome molding strip on the side. I also did the lower chrome trim piece on the front bumper. The bumper trim piece took some rock chips in the first day or two, which I suspected might happen. I didn't put the double-sided tape on yet, so I'll just pop it back off and refinish it when I do the other 2 chrome grill pieces this weekend. I think I'll sand them with a rougher grit and use adhesion promoter before priming, which I didn't do the first time.

If anyone's wondering I used the dupli-color perfect match, which I'm actually pretty happy with, the color is almost spot on to the original if you take your time and do multiple light coats.

Also found a cool looking black TRD bed decal to replace the original white one