The definitive Steering Rack Thread - with solutions - Updated 10/2020 in first post

I think mine has failed as well...after 200k I'm not completely shocked, but I did find the front sub-frame stained with fluid on the driver side, doesn't appear to be engine oil, but stained non the less....... This should be way more fun than the starter, lol...

 

135k but recently upgraded to 35s then installed 5.29s and swapped out a readylift leveling kit for OME 614s (612s not 614) and Dakar rear springs...about 2months into the set up so maybe 1500 miles...rack failed...sucks, but this thread will be super helpful, thanks in advance.

Also found these two videos, not very step by step but helpful none the less.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEZFrvaIRw0 and part 2 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=20DVDWMoMGE

 

This is a great thread. Just blew out my rack doing a 3 point turn in a driveway, fluid pooled in the inner boot. I'm on vacation near Glacier, MT so can't do it myself. Shop said 20 hrs, WTF. I explained how to do fix it in 5-8 hours and they didn't believe me. After chatting with a dealership, a tech said to look up repair process for 2016+ and has new method that is 5.75hrs according to Toyota. They quotes $870 plus parts and alignment at the dealer. Told the shop to look up repair for 2016+ and all of a sudden the job went from pulling the engine and tranny (20hrs) to 6-8 hours. Thinking of saving the old one to rebuild myself to have a backup, anyone rebuild a rack before? Worth it. This thread and another saved me 12 hours of labor cost. Thanks guys.

 

hey brotha I have to replace steering rack bushings and I have the BDS 7" , DID YOU NEED TO DISASSEMBLE shocks , ball joint, etc to get the diff drop bracket out of the way so you could get to the steering rack bolts ???

 

No!

 

cool so just unbolt diff mounts ??

 

yeah the best way to do it now is to pull the front diff. PM me if you need some more info. The way i did it in the original post is the old method, there are ways to screw that up. So shoot me a PM and we can chat

 

Are the OEM racks better than AM?

I replaced mine 3 months after i bought my 2006 DC in 2017. also, changed the PS pump
truck had 135k on it, no lift stock size tires. Now 168K same stock tires and the rack is bad.
Goes from hard to easy to steer after turning.
Going to replace with the same rack, because it came with lifetime warranty (Advance Auto).
But 30k miles is BS for a stock truck

 

Yes stock are better than reman or aftermarket

 

Have y'all tried doing it w/out dropping the front diff but removing the inner tie-rods? I read somewhere of guys doing it that way & it seemed the easiest/fastest. Mine shit the bed yesterday & waiting on a new OEM unit to arrive so I'll be doing this this week/weekend. I'd really prefer not to drop the diff.
Also, if you remove the gear box from the rack, what precautions need to be taken to make sure it goes back on in the correct orientation?
I don't know if it matters but I have 2016 w/ a ~3" OME lift.
Thanks.

 

Yes, I've done it. It sucks. Drop the diff

You don't need to pull the inner tie rods. Pull the input shaft and remove all the hydraulic connections from the rack and you can maneuver it out the passenger side. But that method takes twice as long as dropping the diff.

 

I have 7" bds so I had to drop the diff .. its more time consuming than anything... match marks , fasten the steering wheel via seat belt method .... have fun

 

I used to advise that way, however you have to separate the steering gearbox from the rack and there is huge risk to damaging it while putting it in, just pull the diff and slam it in, way easier and faster trust me I've done 10 of these. diff drop is fastest and easiest. See original post its been updated.

 

I’ll be doing this myself on my shop floor. Can the diff be dropped with only one person? I’m mostly worried about boogering up the drive axle diff seals sliding them back into the diff.
Thanks.

 

Yes it can, do you have a trans jack? you can do it with a regular jack and use a strap to hold it in place, just support the passenger side axle tube. you wont screw up the seals. its all super straightforward.

 

I don’t have a tranny jack but I have straps. Do I have to pull the hubs and everything at the wheels to pop the axles out of the diff?
Also, about how low does the diff need to drop, I’m assuming about 6”?
Thanks for all the input!

 

Just drop it to the floor, its 5 bolts( the diff mounts), one electrical connector and two breather hoses, you probably won't lose more than 1/4 cup of fluid if you keep it flat... i drop it down and slide it to the rear of the truck out of my way so i have plenty of room to work. and no you just disconnect the upper control arm uniballs. then bring the knuckles away from the truck, that's enough room to pull the inner cv stub out of the diff to clear.

 

Trying to do this now. This is as far as I can get the axle out of the diff. What am I doing wrong?

 

Did you disconnect the upper control arm from the spindle?

 

Yes.

 

well, if thats not enough try disconnecting the spindle from the lower control arm; two bolts. Thats how I normally do it. when you reassemble, those bolts need to be torqued to 225 ft/lbs and use red loctite

 

there is a lot of play with them, they should angle enough to pull completely out. worst case just drop the diff and the inner cv's will angle down and clear it. But they absolutely should pull out , are the tie rods disconnected from the knuckles?

 

@The Patriot 1776
id put the upper control arm back on loosely just to hold it up

 

I got them by removing the tie rods from the knuckles. Destroyed both diff seals in the process.

 

how are they destroyed??

 

Ate up from the splines binding on them and one side shit the seal spring.

 

sry man that sucks

 

Do I have to remove the front driveshaft from the diff as well? It appears so.

 

yes, 4 bolts

 

oh yeah shit.... forgot about that part... ill adjust the directions, sorry about the seals, i would have assumed the tierods were off the knuckles... that's the key piece.