100,000 mile maintenance

My 2013 Tundra is getting ready to hit 100,000 miles. Aside from the oil change what are everyone’s thoughts on these items:
1. Transmission oil change...it seems some people swear by changing it and others say never to touch it. Who’s right? Reasons why over the other?
2. Rear diff fluid change
3. Coolant. Should I do a full flush or just drain and fill? Never had any temp issues and the fluid still looks as pink as new fluid. Should I just leave it alone?
4. Brake and power steering fluid.
5. Any other items I may have missed that are recommended??

 

At 100,000 miles I would def have the ATF changed out. NOT flushed. Just the fluid removed and replaced. Same with diff, coolant, brake, power steering, transfer case and front diff if 4x4

 

I’d do spark plugs as well.

 

I use 100k for the major tune up overhaul as it's an even marker that's easy to remember. Go thru every thing that is a consumable.

To your questions, I do spill and fills for ATF. Less intrusive and understand it's you'll only be refreshing 1/3 of the capacity but less prone to problems.

If you're doing the rear diff, go do the TC and front diff. Also check and see if your rear diff breather isn't seized/plugged.

Coolant may look clean but pH and additives may be gone. Look up the engine block drain on the passenger side too if you want to get out as much as possible.

Someone already mentioned plugs.

Add serpentine belt

Do your paper filters. Lube your driveline if your aren't already doing so. Address any rust.

 

Also check your suspension.

 

Spark plug brand recommendation?

 

Your owners manual has a comprehensive list of things to do, add in extra service as if you use the truck in severe conditions.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra-maintenance-guide.315/

 

I have seen some people mention if you aren’t going to change all of the tranny fluid, you aren’t doing a whole lot of good. Thoughts?
Directions on serpentine belt change?
I looked for any zerk fittings on the driveshaft and couldn’t find any. Probably doesn’t matter but it is a two wheel drive truck. What am I missing?

 

Did you jack up the rear end (chock the front tires) and put the transmission in neutral so you could hand rotate the drive shaft? The zerks will often times get covered in grime and might then be hard to visually identify if you're not well versed.

 

Power steering fluid change? Check levels and color, yes. But change it out?

 

I have always liked NGK.

 

Take a look at your water pump too, it could be leaking by 100k. Mine is at 120k and I have a new water pump and plugs ready to go in, along with fluids. Toyota has a maintenance guide online that you can download.

 

Denso OE.

 

It’s easiest to do this from underneath. Took me about 15 minutes as I recall.

 

I sure would. It’s not hard or expensive.

 

Any good comprehensive write-ups, videos, threads, or articles on this forum or anywhere else about complete 5.7L 6-speed transmission fluid change? I have seen a few videos on YouTube that are not the most detailed. Recommendations?

 

Any video or articles for directions on how to change it?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/changing-serpentine-belt-in-2012-tundra.32312/

 

Some new fluid on a regular basis is better than old fluid. I plan on riding my truck til it dies.

Bunch of videos on youtube for the 5.7 regarding change the serpentine belt. Like a few have said, go at it from the bottom side. Spin all your pulleys while the belt is off and check as needed too.

You didn't mention you had a 2wd. I recall 2wd doesn't have zerk fittings.

 

This is a great question and something everyone should consider especially if you plan on towing. With my tundra hitting 93k miles, I've already done the diffs and TC. I couldn't break the drain bolt on the front diff and had to suck out what I could and replace. That bolt was way over torqued.

Have plans for the rest of the fluids and belt/tensioner over the coming months along with upgrading the shocks/struts and the brakes. When I hit the road with the travel trailer, I want as much maintenance completed as possible.

 

I had to use an air chisel to back my front drain plug out. Make sure you have a replacement to go in before attempting.

 

Always remove the fill plug BEFORE removing the drain plug. What if you drained all the oil out of your diff or t-case and could not add more because the fill plug was stuck?

 

I have always used NGK in all of my motorcycles and cars for the past 45 years, never a problem! They are great plugs.

 

So I found this informative video about changing the transmission oil out completely (see below). It seems fairly similar to others I have seen, except for one step. At the 7:45 min mark he puts a paper clip into the OBD2 sensor. He then proceeds to put the truck in neutral and drive repeatedly. Based on if the "D" light stays on or flashes lets him know if the correct temperature has been reached in the transmission which lets him know if the correct amount of oil is in the transmission. This is how I interpreted this process. Is anyone familiar with this method and if my interpretation is correct????


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ujx6BkbMGic