Horn honks continuously

Thank you in advance for your time and advice. My 2006 tundra horn won’t stop honking. I was driving and was stopping at a red light normally; I didn’t slam on my brakes; and my horn just started to go off. I removed the relay from the fuse box under the hood just to get it to stop. I waited a day and slightly banged on my steering wheel thinking it was stuck and I then tried to reinstall the Relay but as soon and it makes contact with the relay socket it still continues to honk. If anyone can help with anything into it will be greatly appreciated.

 

This happened to me in a1998 Montero...it was the mechanism in the horn pad that stops the horn contacts from touching and setting the horn off disintegrating and not doing it's job.

 

Your DC might be similar to my 2004 DC and while I wouldn't 100% expect the Horn relay to stuck in energized state or welded contacts, you could eliminate that as a problem. There are 2 other identical relays to my Horn relay. Perhaps you could check the same on your 06 and temporarily check if it's the relay. Do you have access to a VOM ?

 

Hit it harder you’ve got to hit it (him) harder!!! (What About Bob)!!!! Sorry it just came to mind!! I wore my Winnipesaukee shirt today!!

 

Jump higher, maybe with your knee more!

 

Like BubbaW suggests. Switch the horn relay with one of the identical ones. I'd be willing to bet that the horn relay is stuck.

 

In the meantime unplug your horns in the front and wire a test light instead to troubleshoot.

Your neighbors well appreciate it.

 

Here is a thread with horn relay issues just for additional troubleshooting info.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/tundra-horn-relay-and-thanks-for-all-the-info.45936/

Crap, nevermind, I just realized that's for a second gen Tundra. My bad.

 

Any update to this thread? I have same year tundra and same problem. Only difference is my door locks aren't working right. Need to use key to enter vehicle, then can use buttons to unlock and lock. Its an aftermarket security/autostart which has been installed for over 10 years, and i had it in an '06 access cab tundra for 3 years prior... I mistakenly went to thread artsr2002 referenced, only to hand my mechanic a fuse assembly for the second gen tundras.

 

You know, I read elsewhere on here where someone had a leak in the cowl or driver's side firewall area and it was dripping right into one of the bulkheads and causing all kinds of crazy problems due to corrosion. Could it be something like that?

May be worthwhile trying the relay swap mentioned above to rule out a bad/faulty relay.

Or maybe your truck thinks you're really horny?

 

If the relay doesn't solve it, it could be the clockspring (I think Toyota calls them spiral cables) in the steering wheel has shorted and tripping the horn.

 

I would bet on the clock spring.

 

Thanks all for your help. Had to share a big development.

Mechanic and his electrical guy have covid19 like symptoms and have been unable to work on it. So i picked up my driveable but not honk-able truck, since i still need to get around. First ride after getting it home had image below.

After instinctually yelling "red alert, shields up!" i had the presence of mind to stop in my driveway and take a video.

GIF is pretty blurry, but reading left to right, the blinking LEDs are ABS (orange), cruise (green), and tire monitoring (orange)

Vehicle was actually in drive, cruise was not on, tires were not visibly low.

Starting to think this is similar to the second gen tundra issue where the guy had the fuse assembly go. Locks are also still being temperamental and not working with aftermarket clicker.

Would a clock spring or relay explain all this?

 

Not sure about your dash set up which is different than mine in the 2002 AC. Are your volts low? Can’t read the numbers.

 

I know this bumper sticker won't fix your problem but it may be a temporary solution.

 

You are #1 in my book.

 

Volts are right near middle (little less than 14V) as meter is from 9 to 19. Battery was replaced about 1.5-2 years ago. I don't think that is the culprit since it starts just fine.


EDIT: mistakenly thought middle was 12 and dial range was from 9 to 15.

 

@blkhawk661 I am suspicious you may have something that leaked into your firewall bulkhead or some corrossion. I'm having deja-vu as I type this, I swear I mentioned it before but ... yeah, that looks a little whack.

Looks about where mine was when I posted the odd video of my fluctuations here.

That was from this thread over here where talks of voltagables has randomly occurred.

 

Update: bought a clock spring ($34) and a relay ($13) online.. mechanic charged me $200 to replace both (fair price?) and now horn, autostart, doors, and alarm all work. ABS and tire sensor are no longer flashing, but cruise light is flashing. Cruise functions fine even if light is flashing regardless of what it is set to. Mechanic said it might take a while for it to reset, and let him know if it continues. Whatever... i'll update if it doesn't go away

I wanted to share this since I could not find any similar incident on any of the four tundra forums i visited and i won't be the last person to have this issue. I had asked the front clerk to get the mechanic to see if only the relay or only the clock spring would do the trick. That was either lost in translation, or both parts were required as i would have preferred to return a part if possible.

 

Wow only $34 for a clock spring? Seems cheap but I've never priced one for a Tundra.

 

parts geek

 

Probably not OEM, right?

 

not OEM. Brand name was "replacement" which i've seen on several sites. If they can't figure out how to make a commonly replaced part after 15-20 years of the truck hitting the streets.... well, they wont be in business long. Not that i think my '06 tundra will last me another 14 years and 200k miles anyway.

 

There are few, if any, parts I'd buy aftermarket these days. Most are made in china and don't last or don't fit right or break during installation. If I was going to get rid of something quick, I might consider it.

 

I agree. That's an EXTREMELY low price. And if properly maintained, that truck will last way longer than the next 14 years/200k miles.

 

Good evening,
I have a 2011 tundra, the horns quit! Then a couple of days later the horns starting blowing for no apparent reason. I had to disconnect the horns.
I had checked the horn fuse when they quit, I have also checked (where the horn relay should be in the fuse box, under the hood.) There is no horn relay. Could it be located somewhere else? Any help would be appreciated with this problem.

Thanks,

Jim

 

Many moons ago I had a 67 chevy pickup that had same problem. Leak was right above fuse block. It was a nightmare. One day it died on me, and I ended up installing inline fuses on every circuit just so I could get home.

 

This thread is in regards to a first gen Tundy issue. Original OP fixed it with a new clock spring in the steering column. Your truck is 2nd gen and may have an entirely different issue. Try reposting in the 2nd and 3rd gen forum to get more relevant info. I expect a shooing when you've been discovered here....

 

shoo, shoo!