Secondary Air Injection Pump failure

Seems like this price is pretty typical from what I've researched...which is ridiculous. Looks like the design of the intake part allows moisture into the system.

 

https://rutechsolutions.com/

 

This thread has mostly been discussing our Gen-II units but there has been a mix of Gen-I discussion and I think there needs to be some clarification. This may get a little long but I will try to only hit on the important parts to keep it shorter. If anyone has specific questions after reading through this please give us a call Toll Free 1-844-307-7671 or email us directly Support@hewitt-tech.com as I never seem to get notifications from all the forums I am on.
First let me just start by saying you absolutely cannot do what our Gen-II units do with a home brew solution or any other competitor's poor quality knock off of our older units.

Our older Gen-I kits, be it the V36H for the 2005-2007 vehicles or our V54H for the 2008-2011/12 vehicles can only stop the system from running on your cold starts (engine off for 7hrs or more). The closest you could get to one of our kits with a home brew would be one of our much older versions of the V36H kits, but even then it is only the extreme basic functionality of our kit. Starting on the 2008 vehicles a much more complicated solution with an extra connection to the engine temperature sensor and embedded logic is required to to prevent a P011B temperature sensor correlation code from coming on every other start. This is where the V54H kits took over and any home brew solution is no longer viable. This is also why the poor quality knock offs of one of our much older V36H units is not compatible with anything 2008 or newer. We sell our units to customers who go the cheaper route first pretty much daily. With any of the Gen-I solutions all of the systems components like the air pumps and air switching valves must still be connected and within proper electrical spec. This is because the air injection control driver(s) that talk to the computer and control the pumps and valves is still active and looking for those components even though the system no longer runs. If you were to remove you are pumps with a Gen-I kit you would get a P0418/P0419 code just like you would if the pump motors burned out. For this sort of electrical fault codes we have kit addons that are added to the Gen-I kits to take care of those electrical fault codes.

Moving The Gen-II units which are the best solution available, they completely emulate the secondary air injection system by replacing the factory air injection control driver(s). They communicate directly with the ECM so that whenever the ECM commands the secondary air system to run, it appears the whole secondary air injection system is operating like it is supposed to. It will also let the emissions monitor for the secondary air system to show as complete/ready even if you were toss your pumps. You don't have to remove the pumps if you don't want to for visual purposes but they are disconnected as part of the installation. The Gen-II kits can take care of the P0418/P0419 codes by itself and there is no way you can get them in the future like you still could with the older solutions. This is also the same for the air switching valve solenoid codes P0412/P0415 but you will typically leave the air switching valves in place since the ECM and Gen-II units need the pressure sensors that are built into them. There is simply no other solution available that is as complete as the Gen-II units to make sure you have no issues with the system ever again. They are a complete stand alone solution that does not have to mess with the temperature sensors or rely on any starter relay triggering requirements, they simply do what they do all by themselves.

Again, if anyone has any specific questions please give us a call Toll Free 1-844-307-7671 or email us directly Support@hewitt-tech.com as I never seem to get notifications from all the forums I am on.

 

There are failures from direct water ingestion but it also has to do with water condensing out of the pressurized air and it has to go somewhere. In many of these vehicles like the 5.7L the air pumps are the low spot in the system so it settles there. They have addressed this in the newer vehicles by adding a heater to the pump to drive off the moisture and by making the air pumps run on shutdown to blow out the water.
Systems like this have and always will have problems though. Anytime you have a valve that has to open and close in contact with exhaust there is going to be issues. Luckily we have all of the vehicles covered now from 2005-2021 with our Hewitt Tech Gen-II kits. This even covers the Flex fuel and those certain 12-13 5.7L Tundra and Sequoia that get re-flashed to operate like ALL the 2014 and newer to run the pumps at shutdown.

 

IDK how I ended up here. I went from searching for part upgrades after 12 yrs of ownership to youtubing and reading up on the infamous P2440 code.

Mind you I don't have any error codes. My 2008 Crewmax 5.7L has 110K miles and is error-free but this P2440 code really worries me. I've seen the DIY fix-it videos and it looks very labor-intensive. I love doing my own work but not at the cost of throwing my back (I have a bad back). And this DIY job requires a lot of hunching over which increases the chances of hurting my back.

My truck mostly sits in front of the house collecting dust and the only parts I've had to replace was the water pump and serpentine belt. Not that it warranted replacing but for preventative measures I had it replaced.

Regardless of the age of my truck, low mileage, and residency in Socal (inland), I know it's inevitable and I will eventually run into the infamous P2440/2431/2432/etc. code. But would it be better to wait till I do encounter the code or am I better off replacing the parts/buying bypass kit now? Or should I just buy the revised trumpets since I haven't encountered any of the codes as a preventative measure?

Does the Hewitt kit cause the SAIP to be inactive? If so, what are the cons to disabling them?

Is there anyone out there with over 150K miles that's never encountered the P2440/2431/2432/etc. codes?

Below mod is a possibility but I really like plug & play.

Okay, what sorcery is this?!!! Are you telling me all I have to do is plug & play those two connectors and it works just like the Hewitt Bypass Kit?

 

Never got codes, only had 60,000 , and went with HP KIT, Now I'm not worried at all when 150,000 comes and goes. Also not worried about getting stuck in limp mode in some far away place , and having added expenses, and still having to put kit on then. Just my opinion. GET IT DONE.

 

That's what I did on my '07. I know it was just a matter of when it would happen...again. It happened to the previous owner of my truck, twice. I wasn't going to let it happen to me so I got the HP Gen I kit. It was super easy to install.

 

This disabled mine..

https://www.tundras.com/threads/breaking-down-the-d-a-p-the-what-and-the-why.17031/

 

Were you experiencing any Pcodes?

 

Hmm...just read the youtube comment: "I would like to say avoid buying this unit if you have a 2008 or high year truck. This will give a code of Po11B after install. It is a know issue and Tim continues to advertise this unit for trucks over the age of 2008. I asked for a refund and Tim said to send it back which i did and have still not heard back from him. Avoid this unit."

Oh-uh!

 

Hmm...may just drill a hole in the AIP like this guy till I get the dreaded Pcode.

https://youtu.be/2KGoxyarJFQ

 

No.. Was kinda a no brainer? Tune and AIP disabled! It definitely is not howling on start up anymore! And it’s been cold! The colder it gets the louder the howl usually was.

 

I don't understand. You're claiming the tune disabled the AIP but DAP never confirmed it does.

Oh, so you're going off of the howl???

 

Yep. It’s very obvious. Im 100% sure the pump is bypassed! When it below zero the start up sound was obnoxious for 20-30 seconds or more. You can still hear the clutch fan.. big difference. Is this a real fix? Can’t say for sure. Others claim its a legit fix. Check his Facebook group page..

 

I can vouch for the P011B code popping up consistently after doing the DIY approach described on this thread. It wasn't every other start, but it was annoying enough that I went ahead and purchased a Gen-II kit, which I installed today. I was able to get the plug n play kit installed without too much trouble, though the ACV connections were a nuisance until I got the angle of my hand right after loosening the wiring harness.

I was able to install the block-off plate on the passenger side, but for the life of me I couldn't get the driver's side to loosen up enough to take the block-off plate. I tried everything I could think of...multiple whacks with the dowel/hammer, extended PB Blast soak, even propping up a portion of the connection with a jack-supported dowel to try to get some separation. Nothing worked. Ah well. Hoping I don't have any issues now that I have the Gen-II kit installed. @hewitttech do you anticipate any issues with just a single block-off plate installed?

 

Shit, at 106k miles now. I had heard about this, but in all my Tacomas, FJ and now Tundra days had not worried about it. Truck stayed parked from Friday after work until this morning to go back to work. Found out what limp mode is today.

Ordered the Gen II kit today, not messing around with this stupid mishap Toyota will not fix. Man, $500 could of gotten a pretty cool mod but I need my truck to run even more. Cannot wait to get the 2x modules so I can rip the whole system out. Thanks for taking my call today Hewitt peeps.

 

Welp! My Hewitt apparatus came in today. It was all very easy, even the block off plate since I had 2 Day shipping time to wait on the parts from Hewitt and sprayed PB liberally both days.

It was all very easy EXCEPT the last plug. The 2nd bank. I did everything in about an hour including block offs but that last damn connection on the passenger side! Well, that took me about 2 1/2 hours and a lot of cussing, a couple beers, some walk off moments, etc. to get but alas, it finally came free with some 90* needle nose pliers. Got it buttoned back up finally, cranked her up, back in FULL power mode and running like a champ. Thank heavens for this bypass. I am so mad at the EPA or Toyota or both for basically bringing back the 80's vacuum problems but at least there is a fix for off-road use only

 

Is this something I need to do? Same truck as far as I'm concerned. I guess I need to do some research here

 

That’s a tough one. It’s expensive to do for a just in case scenario. I’m just glad it worked! Went a couple days without the truck, luckily I could work from home..

 

BALLS!!!
I drove to work today and even ran some errands on lunch. Stopped on the way home once, cranked up & drove home fine. Parked, sat for about 30 minutes.
Went to go to AutoZone for stuff for valve cover change this weekend....
Limp Mode Again!!! P1613
P1613
What freaking now?!? Dammit.

 

That is a code for the control module that goes with the system. It's not a particularly expensive part, and I would just replace it. I would have good confidence in a used module myself, as this is a pretty uncommon issue. The Hewitt kit deals with the moving parts and hardware that fail, but this particular failure you have is an electronic module elsewhere, so you'll need to replace it.

There are two of these modules in the trucks with a different part number depending on which side you want, so be careful to get the right one!

 

I cleared the codes by disconnecting battery, so far so good, ran Good Friday afternoon but haven’t run it again yet.... this is Sunday around noon now..

 

Ok, limping again... so confused.. the story:
2008 5.7 w/ 106k miles

I had heard of the secondary air failure bc I am a Toyota guy but never researched or had a problem related to it.

Parked truck on a Friday after work, super muggy unusually hot weekend, did not move the truck again until starting up to go to work on Monday morning. Dash lit up and limped to nearest AutoZone.
Codes: P2442 & C1201 were thrown.

Read up online and immediately ordered the Hewitt Gen II kit
Did not drive the truck until the kit came in and installed. Great success, I thought. Codes were cleared overnight and I drove to work next day (25 miles one way). Even ran some short trip errands during lunch. All was great. Went home just fine after work (25 miles) and parked it. Left to go to grocery store about an hour later, had a cell, went to AutoZone instead.
Codes: P1613 & C1201

Limped home from AutoZone (1 mile) and parked it again. Read a lot over the next few days and drove wife's car to work about a week but on weekend needed the truck to bring something to my brother's the next day (20 miles). Unplugged battery night before, cleared codes, drove over fine. Left running while we unloaded, jumped back in and had to limp 20 miles home. Limping in Texas sucks by the way, people do NOT go slow here.

Off to AutoZone the next day..
P1613 & P1614

Called Hewitt, told them the whole update. Traced wires over the phone. I decided I wanted to order the PSO's just to be sure. Paid for 2x PSO's to be overnighted, just want my truck back right.
Installed those when they came in yesterday. Codes had cleared form battery being unplugged. Test drove it around about 5 miles last night, seemed all good again.
Drove to work this morning (25 miles), fine. Drove home today after work, fine. Parked for a couple hours, went to go to the store, cell and codes! y this time I have bought an OBD2 reader for myself so this is what my reader tells me below today about my new limp mode:
1. P2441
2. P2445
3. P2441
4. P2445

What in the HELL y'all? Seriously, I'm reading all these posts about partially rebuilding the system, jerking the system out, building your own bypass and now DAP Tune.

Is there any hope? What works? Should I just stop spending money on this thing and buy another vehicle? That would suck because I just dropped about $3k into maintenance, then Hewitt equipment was almost $1k. Hoping this ridiculous series of codes will trigger someone's memory. If not, does anyone know if DAP really writes itself around this whole thing?

Sorry so long but I wanted to be thorough in case the right eyes hit this..

 

@camillethetoy any updates on your truck?

 

Yes, so sorry. I ended up getting a bad bypass module. Seriously, my luck. The Hewitt staff was very helpful in helping me determine this by process of elimination.

We ended up replacing the module part of the SAIS delete system and my truck has been running wonderfully for a full week now.

 

Sounds like a GREAT SUPPORT TEAM.

 

Yes, they were. I would not buy any other kit after this experience

 

Had my AIP replaced wish I would have checked tundras.com first. I am leaning towards the DAP tune instead of going with the Hewitt bypass kit, but it comes down to the cheapest cost option because I dont want to sink too much more money into the vehicle. Why isnt the secondary air pump even there if it can be bypassed and isnt needed?

 

Smog reasons

 

More specifically it is used to heat up your catalytic converter by pumping more air into it. This gets the cat hotter faster and hence save the environment. Once the cats reach the operation temp the pumps turn off. Which is why u usually only hear them on when the car is left overnight or a long duration.