Oil questions, and any downside to 0W30 oil in Gen1 Tundra

So, I just did an oil change in my 4.7L 4Runner and 4.7L Tundra, both use 5w30 synthetic. I have another 4.7L Tundra to change soon.

I started my Tundra and heard a quick "rattle" for about 1-2 seconds at startup, and then again when I moved it when it was cold. The rattle disappeared when warm. Anyway, I wondered if 0W oil would run a little faster in the cold.

I read something about the advantages of 0W oils. It got me thinking. Should I be doing these in 0W30 or even replacing at least 1 quart with 0W30?

I think the temp range of 5w30 is something like 30 degrees Celsius below zero (-22F) to 35 degrees Celsius above zero (95 F).

0W30 gives a bit more low end range, down to minus 35 degrees.



I live in a region that never gets down to -22F. But is there any real world advantage of replacing 1 quart with something that flows a bit better in frigid cold, or just going to full 0W30 changes in winter months??

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Next somewhat related question, who are the morons who created these arbitrary oil weight and weather numbers which correspond to nothing in the real world??? SAE 30 corresponds to nothing temp related. 10W40 corresponds to nothing temp or weather related.

Also, engines get hundreds of degrees hot. So, how does a 30 weight oil good for 95F degrees work in a engine running 200 degrees?

 

I’d just stick with 5w-30 if I was you. I notice when my oil is newly changed I can hear that little rattle/knock in rhythm on the drive side. Once the oil ages a bit over about 300 miles I do not hear it any more with a cold or warm engine.

You should do a little study on the oil weights. Straight weigh is non-detergent. Different oils weighting also mean different things for each oil.

I’ve been using Mobil 5w-30 High Mileage since taking over service on my truck. Prior was whatever the Service Shop put in.

You can get cheap Toyota YZZD-3 Filters at your Stealer. I think those are more important than the brand of oil you chose.

 

I've got 13 Mobile 1 filters in inventory for my rigs, and over 40 quarts of synthetic 5w30, so we're good on supplies for my 3 Toyotas. Just wondering if there's any small advantages to be gained by even just putting a little 0w30 in...

 

How cold does it get where you live?

 

Give it a wurrl and let us know.

 

Excellent query. Northern state, can get frigid. Typical winters are within the ranges covered by 5w30, but... theoretically it could dip below and even if with in the ranges doesn't 0w30 imply better cold weather protection??

 

0w or 5w is the cold pour viscosity or 'flow'. For those that don't know the 'w' stands for winter, not weight.

Both provide 30 weight protection when warm.

I'd go with all 0w-30. No 'loss' in protection at operating temp and more cold start protection.

 

For so many years all we ran was 10w30 10w40 , even at 30 below , newer oils don't get as thick at lower temps as old oils used too. And newer batteries also have alot more cranking amps. So all this 0- stuff is just how the oil acts at lower temps. and the 20- 30 is how it acts at operating temps. As for protection , it's always same protection , just spins freer at lower temps.

 

I use nothing but 5W-40 Rotella T6 in all my cars/trucks. Extreme temperature. Live in AZ, gets toasty.

 

Just carrying this topic one step farther: Why doesn’t every vehicle require 0w-40 since it would cover all the bases and keep things simple?

 

The love of oil thread.... Never ending.

 

I'm not even close to an expert on this stuff, and most of what I know I gleaned off this website.

It is my understanding, the the the oil recommended by the manufactures isn't totally driven by lubrication.

I believe it has something to do with meeting certain government mpg regulations. Something to do with thinner oils create less friction and the engine parts slide past each other more efficiently, but it might not be lubed quite as well, either. Kinda a trade off between lubrication and engine efficiency.

And the reason we don't run 10w-30 or 10w-40, like we used to has something to do with newer engines being built to tighter tolerances than older engines and the older thicker oils won't get into all the nooks and crannies.

Or something like that.

 

The starting sequence at low ambient temps, where 0W excels, only lasts for seconds. That's probably a good thing too. Cold cranking is the only reason for 0W viscosity motor oil. Ideally, in really cold climates (like 30 degrees below zero F), you could start up the engine with no oil in the crankcase, then add oil after it's up and running. Or, have a block heater to maintain the oil at a reasonable pour point temperature.

After startup, higher vis motor oil than 0W is desired for "mechanical protection". Operating time at 190-220 degrees, where higher vis oil is desirable, will last the rest of the vehicles running life. The higher the viscosity of the oil at operating temperature, the higher the "windage" losses. That's why they're now tinkering with 0W16 motor oil. With higher viscosity oil, less power is delivered to the transmission. More throttle is added to compensate for the higher losses. More fuel is consumed.

Now, you begin to see that 0W-20 motor oil is more about politics, than it is "protection". Full synthetic or blended motor oil is available now relatively cheaply at low viscosities. 0W = easy cold cranking at low temps. 20 SAE weight at operating temp = less friction losses which keeps the swamp happy.

 

40 weight is just slightly thicker. Not necessarily better lubrication. With newer engines and tighter tolerances oil doesn't flow well enough if it's too thick. No flow = higher pressure and less protection.

Oil doesn't just lubricate. It also acts as a coolant to directly control bearing, cam, etc. temps. If oil doesn't flow they get too hot and that also leads to damage/failure.

 

Past, current or future Swamp? : ^ ))

 

Pretty soon we’ll be discussing the best Rare Earth Mineral Ratios for our battery cars. I’m a Nimby and care about the Earth so I prefer mine to come from chyna.

 

Lets beat a dead horse... How often are you changing oil? I've checked my oil after 5-7k miles and it was still light and golden... I change around 7k miles and I don't even sweat it when it reaches 10k miles but that's my comfortable maximum.

I know someone reading this wants to shoot me.

 

heavier oil affects gas mileage. thanks to EPA regs, companies try everything to get all the MPG they can out of cars.... hence why toyota now has 0w-16 in the new 4 cylinders

 

Is it ok to use 0w-16 on a 4.6 2013? I'm trying to stop ticking

 

thinner oil isn’t going to make ticking quietet. Thicker MIGHT but who knows if it bad in other ways.

not recommending it, but my experience is that 5w30w oil reduced my ticking sound in summer heat

 

Might be the same morons who decided when your cat is failing let's run rich on fuel. Im still annoyed by that.

 

I've heard others say that. Not saying I don't believe it, but it's clear that I'm personally feeling another part of this elephant. After a year and 2500 miles, my oil is black and smells rank.

So...that raises another question (I thought of making it a poll. ): If your oil is light and golden after 5-7K miles, is the additive package in your motor oil DOING ANYTHING? My point is, if the additives are working, shouldn't all the blow-by combustion products be SUSPENDED in the motor oil instead of clinging to the inside of the engine? What, your engine doesn't produce ANY blow-by? That's the whole reason for detergent additives; make the oil black while keeping the black scum off the internals.

Before anyone says it, I'll say it: I should catch a sample and send it off to Blackstone.

 

My oil is black night after 3000 miles as well

 

Really a great point John. I replaced the motor in my Honda recently and that oil is black after 1500 miles. I'm doing quick intervals to see whe it starts staying "clean" longer but that makes me feel better about seeing the oil turn black. The motor I put in is imported, no telling how long it sat or how it was maintained.

 

Pennsylvania is a northern state. So is Maine. This guy really practices internet safety, same as what I tell my six year old daughter when she's playing games online. Don't ever give out any personal information sweetie, bad, bad people out there..

 

I read something interesting, (might have been on here) . . . it was from a guy who maintains a fleet of vehicles & heavy equipment.
He said they work in a really dirty / dusty harsh environment. He was saying that they change oil filters and leave the oil in, and then afterwards top-off the oil back to the right level. Obviously this would be a big mess for most of us and not practical . . . but I thought the reasoning behind it made sense given their application / work environment. They saved money by going longer between 'complete' oil changes, while maintaining good filtration.

 

I cant speak to heavy equipment practices, but for fleet vehicles the companies I worked at did similar because they disposed of their fleet vehicles every 3-5 years.

 

Some interesting information here. Oil turns black from contaminants (mainly carbon soot). A properly tuned and functioning engine can run pretty clean and produce few contaminants. An engine that has incomplete combustion, excessive blowby, runs too rich etc. may produce more carbon and introduce more into the oil. Poor air filtration would be another good way to get contaminants in the oil, but unlikely to be the cause of dark oil. If your oil is black after 3000 miles, I would be questioning everything. Gas quality, oil filter choice, spark plugs, engine operating health etc. I would use the recommended 5W30 as that's what Toyota recommended based on engine tolerance and normal temperature range. I've had the valve covers off of my engine and seen down into the cylinders with a color borescope and it's pretty clean in there after 259k miles. I've used synthetic oil only for the last 160k miles (since I've owned it) and do 10,000 mile oil changes or once a year, whichever is sooner. I use the larger Mobile 1 filter. My oil is usually a dark clear amber color when I change it. Truck doesn't smoke, gas mileage has never changed, runs great. I've done the same with all of the vehicles in my fleet (wife and 2 kids) and have never had an engine issue. This of course has gone along with a maintenance regiment for all consumables, filters, plugs fluids etc. Replacing any parts that fail or are questionable. Zero engine failures or issues. My experience anyway.

 

I've got NO clue, lets just be honest about that.

I will say that I've owned at least a dozen other cars which had brand new fresh oil turn dark/black within 1000 miles. Sometimes way less... The Sequoia on the other hand, golden, light, clear oil even after 3 months. I have no idea why that is, but it is.