El Two’s ‘18 CM TRD Off-Road Build

I was also annoyed and good question. The short answer is yes. My husband had a knee replaced and he always uses the grab handle. As for me, I find I use the handle mostly for getting out of the truck. Installed are Carhart canvas seat covers and they’re not the easiest to slide on. I grab the handle to help pivot around when exiting. I’m making an effort to not pull on the steering wheel - don’t want to tweak anything in the column.

Thanks for the feedback. Glad you’re finding the info helpful.

 

I put my air tank and compressor in about the same place. That fuel tank takes up a ton of space.

 

Interesting build! Do you already have the TT? How much did it cost?

 

Thanks! The TT is still on order. Hopefully it’ll be ready by mid April. Gotta msg yesterday from the dealership asking about mods to the TT. Hah, more mods. Think I’m in heaven.

 

The cab of the truck is currently torn apart while working on several different additions. Figured I’d better start capturing the activity before I forget things. This is the mount for the front Anytime camera. So far I like it.

Finished product, front and rear pics.



The mount is made from 1” square aluminum bar and fits perfectly between the plastic lattice of the egg crate grille. I cut a slot in the bar to sandwich in a small piece of aluminum. A hole was then drilled in the small plate and the camera secured to it.



To secure the mount to the grille, holes were drilled in the plastic on each side for the machine screws. At this point I realized the machine screws were a pivot point and provided a small amount of play to change the angle of the camera. I drilled a few more holes and added an adjustment screw.



A few coats of paint and the finished product.

 

Finished installing sound dampening on the floor of the front cab and lower A & B pillars. My husband had enough extra insulating foam mat left over from another project that I was able to add a layer to the footwells and up the firewall. This completes all the sound dampening planned for the truck.

 

Was getting tired of hunting for things at night in the cavernous pit we call a center console. Installed small LED lights and a switch to light up the pit by tapping into power from the cigarette charge port.



The center console has a Tuffy security insert installed. Three LED lights were used (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F2GT3QI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8), one is in the front wall above the lip of the security insert. The other two lights are on the back wall. Locations on the back wall are limited due to a metal plate that is part of the console lid, air conditioning ducts, and also the plastic support ribs. The rear lights are lower than I wanted but there weren’t many options. A step bit was used to drill the holes. If you’re drilling into the console go slow. The plastic is thin and the bit can fall through pretty easily if you’re not careful. The wires go along the bottom of the console and follow the path of the OEM wires from the rear cigarette charge port.



The switch (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KP67FY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8) is illuminated, which makes it easy to locate in the dark. A location for the switch had to be made so it would line up with the front cigarette charge port. There was a horizontal plastic rib that almost touched the cigarette port. To remove the rib, a cable management clip was relocated (see pic). A Dremel tool made quick work of the plastic rib and a step bit was used to drill the holes.

4” pigtails for power (+) and ground/negative (-) were used to tap into the cigarette port wires. The three lights are connected in parallel. The male blade connectors on the back of the switch are very small, much smaller than any female connectors I had on hand. I ended up soldering pigtails to the switch: blue wires are positive (+) and green with black marker are negative (-). How the switch was wired can be found in the pic below (see insert).

 

Been working on several things while the front of the cab and dash was torn apart. This update is on a WeBoost cellular signal booster install. I purchased the “Drive Reach OTR Fleet Weboost 471254“ version mainly because it had the antenna I wanted along with the hardwired power supply. This forum had a GB promo code happening at the time with AllTech Source (https://alltechsource.com/product/drive-reach-otr-fleet/) so saved a little bit with the discount.

The back of the Crewmax cab has had the rear seats removed and a plywood platform installed. The front support of the platform made a great place to mount the main WeBoost box. The external antenna cable is run from the truck bed and brought into the cab through a floor grommet next to the B pillar.



The external antenna itself is mounted to the cargo basket using a luggage rack mount with a fold down feature (https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Antenna-K540-Adjustable-Luggage/dp/B07MBKNMT1). When the antenna is folded down it tucks nicely behind the cab and is secured using a mini-QuickFist clamp (https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Fist-Clamp-mounting-equipment/dp/B006NOC8Q6/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Mini+Quick+Fist+Clamp+for+mounting+tools+&equipment_5%2F8="+-+1-3/8"+diameter+(Pack+of+2)+-+30050&qid=1617728021&sr=8-1) to keep it from bouncing around. I had to notch out two places on the wind deflector in order to attached the mounting brackets to the front edge of the basket. The antenna mount seems to work pretty well. I recently did an 8 hour trip through New Mexico and Utah with the antenna extended and had no problems at all.



The antenna cable is run down the rack’s corner tower to the forward rail and drops down to the pass-through at the front of the bed. From there the cable is run along the frame on the passenger side and enters the cab using the floor grommet located next to the B pillar.



The power cable is run under the driver’s seat, along the driver’s side door sill, and through the firewall. There is a small power brick that is tucked up under the dash and velcroed to the carpet near the firewall grommet. To help protect the internal antenna cable, a wire sleeve was used and the internal antenna cable run under the center console, up into the dash, and behind the dash trim. I tried as much as possible to keep some distance between this cable and any other wiring in the cab to help cut down on signal interference.



3M VHT was used to tape the internal antenna to the back side of the dash trim panel. The trim is made from plastic so it shouldn’t block any of the cell signal (I hope) but only time will tell.

 

Added seat jackers from Desert Does It to the passenger side - https://desertdoesit.com/collections/comfort/products/tundra-front-seat-jackers

 

How much of a difference has this made in terms of noise and insulation? Worth the struggle?

 

Here’s the short answer - last week I returned from a 5,000+ mile trip and could definitely tell the difference in the noise. The last time I took a long trip my head was bugging me after 7-8 hours on the road. It was like the engine/exhaust drone was still reverberating in my head hours after getting into the hotel room. This most recent trip I had no problems even on the days when I was traveling for 10-11 hours. So glad I added the sound dampening.

As for the insulation, it’s too early to tell. The weather has only now started to warm up (70* during the day).

Here’s the long answer - The Dynamat install was broken into three phases: 1) ceiling; 2) doors; 3) floor of front cab. The ceiling was phase one only because I was working a mod that required removal of the ceiling console plus running cables through the ceiling. I figured if I was going to mess with the headliner I only wanted to do it once. Because of all the effort, time, & money invested, I really, really wanted to hear a difference once the sound dampening was in the ceiling. Honestly, couldn’t tell that much difference.

However, there was a noticeable difference once the doors were completed. I could tell the road noise and engine/exhaust drone was reduced. What surprised me was the stock radio system actually sounded better and had more bass. I’m no audiophile by any measure but I could tell the difference. I’m not talking about a major eye popping, tingling all over difference but there was an improvement once the doors were sealed.

The front cab floor has the sound dampening up the firewall as far as I could reach and rearward to the back edge of the B pillar. To clarify what I mean by “front cab,” I can’t add sound dampening to the back half of the Crewmax cab because of a rear seat delete and platform & storage install done last year. In hind sight, really wish I had put sound dampening across the entire floor and back wall before adding the platform. Here’s a pic to give you an idea of what I’m talking about in the rear cab:




Hopefully you have the context after this lengthy explanation. If I were to do this all again, I’d proceed by adding sound dampening to the doors first, floor second, and then determine if anything was needed in the ceiling. I’d also cover the whole floor because a lot of the exhaust and road noise is coming from below. Even though I’m not able to deaden the rear of the cab, I can definitely tell the difference and am glad I did what I was able to do.

Hope this helps. L2.

 

So many useful mods in this thread. @El Two You guys are doing a very nice job setting your truck up with personal touches and for your intended use.

 

Thanks!

 

Subscribed! So much great info and extra details in here. Great work!

 

Very helpful, thanks. I did the doors with Dynamat too and trying to decide if I want to tackle the ceiling. I think I will try the firewall and floor first with what I have left of my Dynamat and foam liner.

 

Awesome! Glad you’re finding the info useful.

 

Finished installing the AJT black out trim a few weeks ago. Soooo much better than dealing with flashes and reflections off the stock trim. Did the vent rings, shifter & cup holder areas, A/C knobs, and 4wd knob. I found @2020Platinum ‘s videos very useful, especially for the 4wd knob. His videos can be found here -
www.youtube.com/NitroZ18Fishing.

 

Installed a new switch plate insert below the A/C controls. Corey George from BlackCatWorks.com was awesome to work with. He was willing to modify his original panel design (https://www.blackcatworks.com/Third-Gen-Tundra-Switch-Panels_p_26.html) to accommodate an air pressure gauge for me. I sent him the gauge and he figured out how to make it fit along with six switch positions.

The gauge is the 1.5” model from Viair (https://www.viaircorp.com/air-gauges/in-dash-gauges/1_5_single_gauge). I’m still working to install the air system so the gauge isn’t functioning yet.

Changes include:

- swapped out the two cigarette charge ports for USB ports (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B077P7GYG6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8)

- added the Anytime Camera switch (https://www.anytimebackupcamera.com...ucts/anytime-backup-and-front-camera-full-kit)

- relocated the rear window switch so someone in the passenger seat can work the window. Used a relocation wire harness from 12Volt Solutions (https://www.12volt.solutions/produc...elocation-harness?_pos=1&_sid=ce6850e32&_ss=r)

- added a little humor for those long road trips (Hope my husband’s not reading this thread) (https://www.aironboard.com/online/push-switch-9b85nb-12volt-toyota-oem-passenger-eject.html)

- and the final switch position is reusing the AUX port.



The stock switch panel and the new panel insert before assembly:



When the panel insert arrived, it also included a cut-out template that showed exactly where to cut the stock panel. A Dremel tool was used to remove the center section (sorry, didn’t get a pic of this step). The new panel insert was sanded down with 150, 220, and 320 grit sandpaper then spray painted with two coats SEM Adhesion Promoter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007VTSRZ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8) and three coats of SEM Black Trim Paint (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EM019O/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8).

After assembly:



Because of the depth of the pressure gauge, the face of the panel insert is forward about an 1.5” from stock. The buttons are easier to reach and no longer tucked deep under the A/C controls. This is great but the down side is that it interferes with the forward cup holder. A standard size water bottle will fit but it leans at an angle and doesn’t stand upright. For me, gaining the extra switch locations and a spot for the gauge out weighs the minor inconvenience of the cup holder.

 

Installed an RCI skid plate on the fuel tank today. After wrestling with the plate for awhile I finally got smart and placed it on top of four 1gal paint cans (tried two cans at first but the plate kept slipping off). Once it was on the paint cans a floor jack was slid underneath and the plate was lifted into position.

<Edit> Forgot to mention, I applied an extra heavy coat of Fluid Film (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CJWV273/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8) to the upper side of the plate. Wanted a little extra rust protection seeing that I’ll likely never take this plate off again.

 

A Midland GMRS radio was installed while the cab was torn apart. Took advantage of the forum’s group buy to pick up a MXT275 (https://midlandusa.com/product/mxt275-micromobile-two-way-radio/) and MXTA26 6db gain antenna (https://midlandusa.com/product/micromobile-mxta26-6db-gain-whip-antenna/).

The radio is mounted under the passenger front seat and the mic port extended to a spot under the glove box.



To mount the radio under the seat, two small holes were drilled in the stock plate as shown. A black box (not certain what it is) was disconnected from the plate for access. Then a piece of rubber was added to help with vibration and an aluminum flat bar used to attach the radio mount to the underside of the seat.



Power for the radio is hardwired to the sPOD. I cut the cigarette power end off the stock cable and added Anderson Powerpole connectors. 14 gauge wire in a custom harness was used that runs from the passenger seat, under the driver’s seat, then along the door sill to the pass-through in the firewall.



I didn’t want the mic cable running from under the seat where the radio is located and across the floor to where the mic is hung. This meant finding a location where an extension jack could be installed that would avoid the cable getting stepped on by a passenger. My first preference was somewhere on the passenger side of the center console, however, no such place could be found that had the depth needed for the new jack plus room to connect an extension cable.

I finally settled on a small area under the glove box to the far left. The mic uses a standard RJ45 connector and pin out which made extending the mic easy. A shielded Ethernet computer cable (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QLXC6QR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8) was run from under the passenger seat, along the center console, under the carpet and A/C ductwork to the dash. I picked up a round RJ45 panel mount adapter from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QJV1YQJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8) to install in the trim panel under the glove box.



After looking at how much plastic material would need to be drilled out for the panel mount adapter, I was concerned that what remained would be weak and crack if I had to remove the same piece in the future. To strengthen this whole section of the trim panel, the back was filled in with epoxy and fiberglass before drilling the hole.





A Midland antenna mag mount with 12 feet of cable (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CRBV71V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8) was used with the MXTA26 antenna mentioned above. The cable is run from under the passenger seat, along the door sill, to the firewall pass through on the passenger side. The antenna cable is pre-terminated with a NMO connector. A T-slit was cut in the grommet in order to get the connector (~ 1/2” diameter) through the firewall. The cable was a few feet too long so it was made to follow an “S” type path up the fender with other existing cables to take up the slack. The mag mount is tucked in next to the windshield reservoir when not in use. When needed, the cable is uncoiled and the mount placed in the center of the hood and the antenna screwed on.



Still need to tune the antenna but it’s raining at the moment. When I get a chance, I’ll use this mini-SWR & power meter: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H8FDDR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8.

<Edit> Tested the antenna and the SWR was 1.14 right out of the box. The antenna must already be tuned to the radio. The pic below isn’t the best, it was pretty bright out today, but the SWR meter is showing 1.14.

 

Subbed, gonna take some of these good ideas and do it on my rig! Y’all are killing it!

 

Hey thanks!

 

Great job! Very detailed! Need more posts like this!

 

Thanks, glad you find the info useful.

 

Installed an RCI engine skid plate and a tranny/cat security plate from Desert Eagle Off-Road ( ). The two different plates don’t have matching holes. To get them to marry up, 3/4” wide x 1 1/4” long slots were cut into the DE plate using a jigsaw. The RCI plate was installed with the nuts for the rear 4” carriage bolts barely threaded on. With the RCI plate hanging, the DE plate was slid underneath and all bolts tightened down. Tightening the nut on the driver’s side carriage bolt took some finagling and a lot of finger tip strength. A ratcheting wrench is a must or someone with arms the size of an 8 year old.

 

A bit of fun this past Thursday - 3rd diff member with Eaton eLocker preinstalled by East Coast Gear Supply (ECGS). My local shop only had to drop in the new 3rd and connect the power cable. I did the wiring to save a couple hundred $ on labor. Switching is controlled through the sPOD.

Side note: ECGS does sell 10.5” prebuilt 3rds but it’s not on their web site. You’ll have to contact them directly if interested.

Before:



During:



After:



The eLocker came with two wiring harnesses - one with the switch and the other with the relay. I didn’t use the switch harness and left it with the shop. The harness with the relay is connected as shown in the pic below:



While the truck was up on the lift, Camburg 1.5” shackles were also installed.

 

What John Said...........

 

Many thanks. This forum is packed with really smart people and great ideas. I’m just tapping into that knowledge and hope to pass some of it along.

 

A lot of great info. I am just starting to build my truck and this really helps.
Any idea how much weight is being added by putting dynamat all over the cabin? I would love that as the trd pro exhaust drones at times.

 

The packs I purchased were Dynamat part num #10455 and each pack weights 23 lbs. That’s nine sheets of 18” x 32” material. I figure somewhere between 75-90 lbs total was added but I didn’t do the back floor or wall of the Crewmax for the reasons explained above.

Glad you’re finding the info useful.