2021 XLR MICRO BOOST RV

I just bought my first RV/ Toy hauler. Dry weight is 6,200 lbs, 29 ft box without tongue. Am I correct to say I will add about 1,100 lbs to the rear suspension.

 

What is the tongue weight of the trailer?

 

if it is this model- the hitch weight is 1340 which is quite high for that trailer size and uvw.
29LRLE

 

What the GVWR of the trailer? Take 10% of that number and that should be your tongue weight

 

Here are all the boost and micro boots trailers and specs

https://forestriverinc.com/rvs/toy-haulers/xlr-boost

 

GVWR is 11540, so typical tongue weight would be roughly ~1154 lbs. There's a huge BUT though and it ties into the 1340 lb hitch weight spec - the back being open to put ATV's etc. into it puts a higher percentage of weight onto the tongue of the trailer.

To tie into the first question - you should be using a weight distributing hitch with a unit this big so it will put 1340 lbs of payload onto your truck, just not all on the rear axle. Those hitches help to spread the load on both axles, the rear end of the truck will lift 1-2" most likely when you tension the hitch (however it does it be it chains or bars). So don't know how much exactly would go onto the rear axle itself, but it will be in the ~1340 lb range for added payload.

 

I just double checked, it is a 27XLR 1154 hitch weight. I am purchasing a weight distribution at the dealership. This is my very first RV, I do have a class A CDL which is not necessary for RV’s. I’m sure it will be different. I wanted a fifth wheel toy hauler, but they were all too heavy for the Tundra. I also feel at the next tire change (near future) will be best to get 8 ply tires. Anyone have any suggestions? I now have the NITTO TERRA GRAPPLERS. If there’s anything else I should know, I’m all ears. Thank you for the heads up on the weight factors.

 

I just double checked, it is a 27XLR

 

Besides a weight distributing hitch, you might consider a Tekonsha P3 brake controller for the additional braking customization features. I also added Air Lift air bags to the rear suspension. I could not level my truck using just the WDH (my RV tongue weight was 1100lbs). Also, Cat scales can be your best friend when setting up your WDH, especially after you have the trailer "loaded", ready to tow.

 

I’m at a loss with ATV/Motorcycle in the back/ garage of the RV. I agree it adds weight to the rear axle of the RV and some on the front axle. But how does it add weight to the hitch/tongue? I believe it reduces some tongue weight. Not much, maybe a hundred lbs. My HD weights 900 lbs. dry weight, my Honda Rincon weights 600 lbs. dry weight. I can get both in, but highly unlikely. Momma and I like air therapy. Please explain the more weight on the hitch with a toy in the rear. Thanks

 

I already have a prodigy 2 brake controller. It does electric over hydraulic, and electric.

I was thinking just that about the air bags myself. I absolutely like that idea. They’re a snap to put in. The only change I would make to the system is to put a “T” in the air lines to get equal pressure in the bags. I know when I’m off camber, with the “T” will allow the air pressure to move from the low side (where the most weight is) to the high side. I’m thinking 40 to 50 PSI will help the load distribution system. It will be trial and error on my first adventure. When unloaded, I believe 15 to 20 PSI will satisfy the bags.

 

I have another question. What is the minimum size WATT generator would be good when camping with no available electricity.

 

How you load your trailer is critical to towing stability. The rule of thumb is you need 10% of the GVW on the tongue, hence a trip to the Cat scales with your loaded trailer. (lots of info on WDH set up on line)

You'll likely get differing opinions on this set up. I agree with you though. Trailer tongue loads are centered over the rear of the truck and there is no need to inflate each bag individually to get equal pressures. I run 50 psi in my bags when towing, which levels my truck.
FWIW.....I purchased a 7 way RV plug (plug only), connected a two pin plug to the 12v and ground pin in the RV plug. I use a small portable 12v air compressor, hooked to the leads coming out of the RV plug, to inflate my bags (avoiding the need for an onboard compressor).

 

You need to calculate how may watts your electrical appliances require.....TV, roof top air, refrigerator, stereo, etc., Then buy accordingly.

 

Thank you to all who replied, and to those who will reply.

 

I haven't gone to a CAT scale as of yet, What I have done is, I measure my truck height before I hook anything up. To the rear fender well I'm 38 1/2 inches, the front fender well is 36 inches even. After I'm all hooked up I checked my heights, I put 45 PSI in the air bags and it's right on the money. The front is a 1/2 high. Then I loaded the motorcycle and now I'm and 1 1/2 too high. So I reduced my air pressure to 25 PSI and that put me back to 38 inches even in the rear and the frontend is still a 1/2 inch high. The way everything is set the front of the trailer is a little high. So I will drop the head settings one hole (which is 1 1/2 inches) and angle it back 6.5 turns instead of 6 turns. I'm using the EAZ LIFT R3 WDH, really like it very much it works for me. We all get a little smarter after every trip about how things work, and what's the best for our own situation. The way it was set our trip to Gettysburg, PA and back went well. For me it's trial and error. The cat scales near me are a hike, once I get everything set to where I think it should be. I'll have to hit the scales to see where I really am with the weight distribution. Once again thank you to all, because it all makes sense.
Anthony