Rear passenger power window control broken

My passenger side back window is not working properly!
- From the front I cannot control it at all
- From the back I can make it go down, but not up...

Already checked the child lock on the back door, the master lock switch in the driver's door. I'm pretty sure this was working yesterday but my son rode in the back after dark and I didn't know he had rolled down the window half way. (It's possible there was minor water intrusion since our sprinklers come on at night but I didn't feel any moisture on the inside of the door.)

My tundra is a 2021 SR5 Crewmax

Recently added new HU and speakers so I did have the doors apart. Could take it to the dealer but I bet they'd take one look at all the dynamat I applied and say "It's your fault since you tore the doors open!"

How to debug this? How to isolate whether it's a switch or something else? Likely the motor itself is fine since it will go down (don't have much room to experiment there since I can't get it to return.) Will check the fuses under the driver's side next.

 

FWIW I took the door window control panel off and heated it up with a hair dryer. Seemingly no water. Didn't make a difference.

 

Fuse box diagrams for 2021 SR5 Crewmax, hopefully someone finds them useful. Seemingly no window fuses under the hood.

Checked anything related to 'door', they were fine, nothing listed for windows or locks.

 

No solution yet, but this guy shows how to make the window go up using a 12v supply.
(Requires completely disassembly of the door... I'm not there yet and I hope I don't need to since I have all that dynamat in the way)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FUCLO6_VQEg

 

Was this the first time that window was put down since you installed the dynamat? Check to make sure it didn’t get pushed into the door cavity to make contact with the window. Happened to me on one, but it just caused some residue, no binding or anything.

 

Wow!

I saw this seemingly random 'fix' on Youtube... and it worked!!! Basically just cycle through all four window switches individually, I started with the drivers side. Four seconds down, four seconds up - then the next door.

But after I put the door switch panel back on, it once again doesn't work. But since this hack helped, maybe I'm on to something. Anyone else know more about the "master switch reset"?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=64bw9AXoJ3o

 

No, I've had the truck in operation for about a week now. No issues.

So here's yet another video with the same approach. Tried it again - 'fixed' for a short time, now it is 'broken' again. Confusing.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-x7C6rkLAN8

 

Here is a service routine from Toyota for a Sienna. Not clear if this 'reset' only applies to the driver's window or all the others as well.

But it seems clear that after disconnecting the battery the window sensors are possibly out of alignment or calibration.

http://www.tsienna.net/initialization-2479.html

 

Disconnected the battery, then did this:
1) Driver's window half way down
2) Driver's window all the way up, hold for 1s more

Then the back window control worked ok even from the front.

But turned truck OFF/ON once more - and back window control again does not work.

Seems to be related to the Master Switch somehow. Is it broken? Still searching for the reset procedure specific to the Tundra.

 

Here's something from the 2021 Tundra owner's manual

 

OK so I did the "Tundra" reset procedure outlined above.

For all windows: Driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, driver rear
1) Hold UP for 6 seconds (I count to 7)
2) Open fully, hold DOWN for 2 seconds
3) Close fully, hold UP for 2 seconds

Did this even on the broken window while going through all of them. This seems to have stuck now, apparently my Master switch is reset. The 'fix' has survived across OFF/ON cycles of the vehicle.

Lesson for the rest of you: If you've disconnected the battery or played around with the window switches as you might when installing audio components, the computer might have 'forgotten' your window settings.

 

So have you checked to see if your Dynamat is contacting the rear window anywhere? That might mess with jam protection.

 

You mean tear the whole door apart? No. If the gremlins persist I guess I'll do that. I don't see any residue on the window nor do I observe it 'sticking' in any way, or dragging. The switch just seemingly forgot what it was doing for a while.

 

Great...I was just getting up the nerve to install a grab handle, knowing I would be disconnecting the battery "just in case". Now I am having second thoughts if that is going to jack up my power windows and maybe other things. Are there any other resets required when one disconnects he battery? Radio reset? TSS resets?

 

Yep, I saw your post that went just as I replied that last time that your reset seemed to be successful. Glad you got it sorted out, and I agree, don’t mess with the dynamat if things seem to be back to normal now.

 

Well it 'broke' again about a half hour later.

Decided to tear it apart when I got home from my day, window had been stuck up the whole time. Turns out you were right - the dynamat was indeed sticking a little bit.

Not sure what to do now. Took the door panel off, took off some of the mat. Window seems free to move because it went down after I disconnected the battery and rebooted the vehicle. But now it won't go up or down even after the master switch reset sequence. I hear a slight click if I press 'down' on the switch, nothing if I go 'up'

Seems like I've really effed it up. I regret putting so much dynamat in the doors, the perceived improvement is slight IMO and the risk obviously is great given that you can mess up some electrical items. Even the "Five Star" guys on Youtube only put in a little mat behind the speaker itself and surrounding it in the front. They don't remove the factory plastic wrap in the doors.

 

Took both back doors apart now. Took the "good" switch and put it on the "bad" door - still nothing. But the good switch back in the good door - works fine. Put the "bad" switch in the "good" door - works fine.

So it seems something must be wrong with the motor on the "bad" door, despite the fact that it seemingly worked this morning. No need to order a new switch at least.

 

Found a video where a guy replaces the glass. Anyone know how to replace the window motor? (aka regulator) Searched the web and tundras.com, seems like there is lots of help for the older gen Tundras, little for the 2007+ models

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orcsqGULHss

 

Dug up my old 2007 Tundra manual, tells how to remove the glass and replace the regulator. Hardly any pictures (Chilton manual)

 

I'm learning a lot. Read this little guide:
https://community.cartalk.com/t/how-do-you-test-a-power-window-motor-to-see-if-it-is-bad/49392/4

Basically the window motor only has two wires going to it. They alternate +/- 12v potential when the switch is toggled. It's easy to identify the power window control on the door, it's a big black plug within a black rubber grommet.

Readings:
- When back passenger switch: 12v when pressed down, 0v when up (this matches window behavior)
- When same control from Master switch pressed, 0v up, 0v down (also matches window behavior)
- Checked back driver side voltages: I get +/-12v whether at the door or Master switch

So now I know that the motor is not the culprit (it's just doing what it is told), the back passenger switch is not bad (tried it in a good door), but Master switch is bad, and I'll bet the same circuit affects the back passenger circuit.

 

If you haven’t already, try re-seating the connector in the master switch. That thing is a bit of a bitch sometimes

 

FIXED! Pulled the Master switch : Lo and behold, the damn thing was loose! I guess I hadn't shoved it in fully when putting everything together.

 

LOL you read my mind! That's indeed what it was