Potentially snapped Timing Belt

Because something had to bend the valves - which is the piston. So you can't just swap a set of heads, you need to replace the pistons, and hope that any gouges can be bored out. At that point, it's a full rebuild.

 

You're in the wrong forum - old Camry's are non-interference engines and are 4 cylinders, not V8s. There's no such usage for 'hydraulic valves' in any gasoline powered automotive engine (diesels use HPOP injectors, not valves). Hydraulic lifters use oil filled lifters to buffer the connection between the cam and pushrods. Your first observance should have been that these are OVERHEAD cam engines (thus the timing belt). There are no lifters.

So much misinformation in that post.

 

They dont have hydraulic buckets or what have you keeping valve lash in check? One of the first novel bits of info i came across on dads vk45 was that the valves had to be measured and adjusted regularly. If 2uz’s didnt use hydraulics, there would be more talk about valve lash adjustment.

but yea, our oil pumps are spun by the crank so oil pressure wouldnt die immediately.

 

You're making an assumption as to further damage. The connecting rods and bearings can endure a good deal more stress than the intake/exhaust valves. Case in point, I bought a Jeep Commander with a 4.7L engine, 177K miles. Owner overheated the engine which caused the valve seats to fall out of the heads. Bent the valves, slammed into one of the pistons. Compression on that one cylinder was zero. I pulled the engine, replaced the one piston and bought some remanufactured heads. Since the engine was out I inspected the rods and bearings. All looked like new with 177K miles. I put it back together and today its still running fine. The short block assembly is alot more robust and take a good deal of stresses before it is deemed unreliable.

Wish I had a picture of the bad piston. It was beat to hell badly. I honed the cylinder, replaced the necessary valvetrain and still running:

 

I am making no assumptions. I would be unwilling to assume that all is well in an interference motor that just lost it's timing belt at 65mph. Could have damage beyond just the bent valves, much like the engine you repaired also had piston damage. I described the same process you went through, full tear down inspection and rebuild as being what I would do in that situation.

 

Will leave rebuild or new to the experts. What I’m interested in seeing is pics of this initial 6K investment. Most here would definetely put another 6K or so into a 2005 without batting an eye IF the frame is in very decent shape….IMHO !

 

Couldn't find any pics of the frame. This is all I've got and the beaut' that I wanna save

 

Go for the big save

 

I vote rebuild or re-motor. Whichever makes the most sense for you. Save her!!!

 

After all is said and done, and I have to sell a kidney to pay for all this, what do you guys think about powder coating the wheels black? Sure, it's the furthest thing that needs attention obviously, but now that you guys see the truck, I'd be interested to hear what you all think

 

I’ll do it first thing when I got the truck

 

The Tundra Gods will shine down upon you if you choose that route with that "beaut", otherwise you will be forever banished from



I hesitate to quess what @Darkness will say but have idea

 

Are those American racing ATX Mojave wheels?

 

I actually like how it currently looks. Definitely worth saving.

 

Bet that sounds crazy

 

Gotta love the jingle of a dry clutch ducati.

 

Save it! By the way that access cab isn't Jimwagon from TS forum is it?

 

Upgrade to newer 4.7 it have more hp

 

I powdercoated my wheels black 15 years ago and they've held up well. Similar style to yours.

 

Wait… you have tires that big, and wont rebuild an engine? Im gonna have to ask you to buy some 22’s and put the leafsprings under the axle.

 

They're shim and bucket and you're supposed to check them every 60K miles / 4 years according to the Toyota maintenance guide.

 

Oh, that truck is worth a replacement motor. That lift job is probably worth thousands of dollars alone. We have similar looking truck @thefish712

 

Well, they found an engine. 55K miles and comes from a reputable source apparently. $3,500 for the engine. For everything,,, engine, parts for timing belt/water pump/etc, and labor would be TOTAL of $7,200.

Thoughts?

What would this truck be worth afterwards with the new engine if I were to sell it? That is NOT the plan, but it will help guide my decision. I bought it for $9K and it's got brand new tires as well for what its worth.

 

Any other mechanical, electrical, or RUST problems to consider? Look carefully for any rust on the underside.

If the engine is the only issue, you'd be into it for about $16,200. You're probably still around break-even at that price with a low miles engine. I assume it's a 4x4 if it's lifted like that, so I'd venture that with a essentially new motor and no other problems, you could recoup your investment and at least break even.

I have a very similar 2000 lifted 4x4 with 155k miles. I would put the value on that between $15 - $20k right now. I wouldn't sell it for less than $20k. You'd end up with a slightly newer truck than I have, albeit with higher miles on the body and transmission and other parts, but a nearly new engine. I would do it.

The alternative is parting it out and you might get 1/2 your money back... or sell it as is, to someone who will immediately put a motor in it and get a great truck for not much money.

Trucks are extremely valuable right now.

 

Sounds like that engine sat for a long while.

cheap, current, and local, and theres folks who can make anything fit anything.

 

It's in GREAT shape otherwise

 

That honesty seems high to me. What state are you in?