Engine oil cooler rubber lines?

2000 4.7 tundra — 70,000 miles — purchased by me from original owner back in June — toyota did a frame recall in May of this year

I’m in the process of changing out the original timing belt — taking things apart slowly, trying not to break bolts

I have to question the engine oil cooler lines — who’s idea was it to use half a dozen 3” long hoses with hose clamps — way to many places to leak for my liking — I’m thinking I should change all the hoses and clamps, some of those hoses are molded, I’m having trouble finding any mention of them on the toyota oem parts websites

Thoughts? Improvements? Replacements? Any option other than buying a length of heater hose and changing out piece by piece?

thanks for any guidance, Jer

 

Take pics of the hoses in your engine bay and send them to Mcgeorge Toyota Parts Online along with your vin. I did this when I was having trouble identifying the exact OEM part numbers and McGeorge replied with numbers and price quote. They said the online catalog is actually run by a 3rd party and does not always show the same diagrams as they have access to as a Toyota dealer.

 

I ordered my timing belt and water pump from lewis toyota in kansas


I guess nobody has figured out how to improve all those silly hose connections...

 

Don't use heater hose as it will not hold up to oil. if you have to go with bulk hose get hose rated for oil.

 

Those lines convey coolant, not engine oil.

Are these all the lines you're looking for?
https://toyotaonlineparts.mcgeorget...x?ukey_product=63003199&ukey_assembly=6719464

 

Lines carry coolant as already mentioned

Yes that link to mcgeorge has the lines I’m looking for — After 21 years I’m thinking they should be replaced

I’d really like to improve on them but that may prove to be more trouble than its worth

 

Oops! You all are right of course. That was a major brain fart

 

It seems complex. But I can say that I’ve never seen them fail.

 

+1

Of the hundreds of members here, and hundreds of members at T4R.com (my previous vehicle was a Gen-3 4Runner which has a nearly identical oil cooler) I've never heard of a single failure.

 

it sounds like the smart thing to do is replace the old rubber hoses and carry on

 

Toyota is well known for "if it ain't broken, don't fix it."

 

You're certainly not going to hurt anything by doing that. But if you're looking for some best-bang-for-your-buck preventive maintenance to do, here are some things to consider:
- replace the radiator and flush the coolant
- flush the transmission fluid
- change the gear oil in the rear diff, transfer case, and front diff.
- flush the brake system
- flush the power steering system
- adjust the rear brakes and load sensing valve
- upgrade the front brakes to WL calipers
- spray the frame and undercarriage with the rust preventative of your choice
- replace and/or relocate the rear diff vent
- replace spark plugs and air filter
- clean the gunk and debris out from around the AC evaporator in the HVAC system
- check for water intrusion behind rear seats from the 3rd brake light or clogged rear window drains
- adjust the parking brake cable

(I could go on.) All these things are known maintenance items that could bite you in the ass if not addressed. Oil cooler lines are not.

You don't have to take my word for it, @empty_lord works in the service department of a Toyota dealership so has seen hundreds (thousands?) of Toyota vehicles.

Your nickle, your choice.

 

I see over 100 a month… and it’s been 7 years

 

8,400 vehicles. Round up for oddball items, and heavy work load.

10,000

 

I’m no stranger to older vehicles, just my 1st toyota — been GM and Jeep for me untill a few months ago

 

I’m new here so I had no idea you where a tech — In your experience do those oil cooler lines leak if reused along with the clamps? Should they be replaced since it’s easy and relatively cheap?

I am changing upper and lower radiator hoses

 

I just had my frame done a little less than a month ago. Fluid filmed the whole thing pretty much before I drove it anywhere. You'll never get another chance to start fresh with that clean frame. Can't hurt to fluid film or undercoat paint or something if you plan on keeping the truck for a long time. Make sure and clean up any and all rust on the rear axle especially on the differential cover portion so it won't rust out and leak in the future.

 

I personally have never replaced them, if the hoses are not hard then You should be fine with the old ones. Never actually seen a 4.7 leak from them.


For piece of mind, new ones are cheap, DO NOT use worm clamps. The OE constant tension are far superior and why the hoses last so long

 

I actually just ordered the 4 hoses and all new clamps from mcgeorge — came out to $75.43 shipped free

I had a short hose like that go on a John Deere 544e wheel loader — $3 hose cost a few hours repair in the snow...

 

I'm a recovering Jeep guy -- it's been a long time though. You're going to love the Toyota!

I don't know where you're located, but if the frame was replaced, it means your in a region with harsh winters. I'm in Maine and we see a lot of rusted & replaced frames. If conditions were harsh enough to rust the frame to the point where it was replaced, the rest of the truck had the some pretty harsh exposure too. The trouble spots I've noticed are the rockers, the top of the rear wheel wells, and the bed in general. If yours are in decent condition (or even if they're not), I'd recommend spraying them with some form of protectant. And as for coating the frame, I agree with @NickB_01TRD, don't wait for it to become a problem.

Personally, I'd also recommend replacing the radiator while you have it out. It's 20 years old and only about $120. In fact I did just replace mine as preventive maintenance on my '00 Access Cab. I changed mine to prevent a potenial pink milkshake (mixing of coolant and ATF at the heat exchanger in the radiator). This topic has been discussed a good amount on this site, but to be fair I'm not aware an a single member who's had a pink milkshake with a Gen-1 Tundra * (see edit below) I had one with my last Toyota -- a 2002 4Runner. The radiators on 4Runner and Tundra are both made by Denso, they are of similar construction, use a similar ATF heat exchanger with identical fittings (the fittings are what fails). I can't explain why the pink milkshake is somewhat common among 4Runners and Tacomas, but virtually unheard of with Tundras. The conventional wisdom in the 4Runner community is to replace them preemptively at 10 years. So in my mind, 20 years is a good interval for the Tundra. I plan to replace mine again in another 20 years. (Hey, I'm an optimist!)

*EDIT: A pink milkshake was reported today.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-transmission-drain-fill-4qts.48692/page-3

And it appears there have been at least two others in the recent past. (here's a link to one)
https://www.tundras.com/threads/more-pink-milkshake.37875/page-4

(EDIT #2) And another one. https://www.tundras.com/threads/rough-transmission-shifting.93323/

I'm beginning to see a pattern here. Perhaps 20 years is too long an interval for preemptive radiator replacement.

 

I’m in NJ — salt and now brine capitol of the world — a snowflake in the forecast and the roads get brined 3 days before

Right now I have 2 cherokee XJ’s on the road a 96 with 130,000 miles and a 2000 with 235,000

I was reading briefly about the radiators, pretty sure I saw no need to use OEM — what radiator is prefered, source?

you’ve convinced me, thanks

 

I've been Jeep-sober for about 12 years. I just take it one day at a time. But then I'll find myself driving down the road on a sunny summer afternoon, and a short wheel base Jeep drive past with the top off... I swear I can feel the wind in my hair, and the cravings start again. Then I have to call my sponsor or attend a meeting.

Denso is the OEM supplier. I got mine from Rock Auto.

 

Ok guys another question — crankshaft pulley bolt — torque to 181ft pounds

How do you hold the crank/crankshaft pulley while tightening to specified torque

I used an impact for removal, could always use the impact for installation but it would just be a guess on torque.

 

There are a variety of Special Tools for that, some are pretty affordable. Maybe someone has one and can post a photo. Some wedge a prybar against the teeth of the flywheel, this requires an assistant.

 

Univeral Pulley Holder & Crankshaft Crank Harmonic Damper Pulley Holding Tool for Lexus & Toyota

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V4MDVW2?ie=UTF8
I haven't done this myself but I have heard of people fabricating a version of these so it comes out cheaper. Someone who has done it would have to chime in.

 

I’m thinking I could rig a makeshift strap wrench with the old belt and a pvc pipe

I wonder if this would be a loaner tool at autozone or advance

I tried using the puller bolt holes, didn’t like the way it felt, couldn’t get any real torque in it — figured I’d ask before making something way more difficult than it needs to be

 

Here's a thread to a DIY pulley holder with a few iterations/improvements along the way: (I particularly like the version in post #9)

 

Need help — can someone double check the ac compressor mounting bolt torques— pro demand says 36 ft pounds — that just seems awfully tight for what they are

All my parts are finally in, trying to put this thing back together

 

From 2000 FSM if it contains what you're speaking of !

 

Thank you — should be the 1st listing - compressor and compressor bracket 18 ft pounds

snap on/pro demand have it listed as 36 foot pounds — just didn’t seem right

now I have to wonder about the rest of the torque values they list...