Temp sensor for upper dash/map lights

Hey all, recently my map light switches broke so knowing there is another 05 in a junk yard nearby i went and took the entire housing from it, its one of the fancy ones with the garage door opener and the outoor temp screen. The entire front end of the truck is crushed so there was no finding the outside temo sensor. Am I correct in thinking that this part is the ambient temperature sensor https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...al-ambient-air-temperature-sensor/odi0/171224

The housing mounted right uo and plugged in no issues and the garage door opener workz. I would assume the wire for the temo sensor is pre run as i see the pigtail where that ambient sensor is supposed to connect. Once that is connected shouls that make it read the temp? As right now it js a black screen unless I push the garage buttons?

Thanks

 

You must have a Double Cab. If you had an Access or Reg Cab, the pigtail for temp sensor wouldn't have been up near the radiator, near the passenger side light (IIRC). When I was digging into retrofitting my truck with the same, the OEM part number for the actual temp sensor (no wiring) I found was

$19 88790-22131 Toyota Genuine Heating and Air Conditioning Control and Air Duct Thermistor Assembly

88790-22131.

 

Yes i have a double cab sorry this is my backup acct so my truck info is bland lmao. Thats the same part i have coming tomorrow so hopefully it will work out! If not its not like im losing anythinf other than 25 bucks for the sensor. My garage door is being a bitch to program the remote bc itd a rolling sensor and its not very straightforward lol. It programs to the remote but then it doesnt program to the door. But hey if i could get the temp im happy l. Regretting not realizinf i probably should have grabbed the compass from the roof when i was in the yard but hey. Thanks for the reply ill update yall when i get the part in fingers crossed!

 

Thats the pigtail

 

Yep, that's the one. And those hands ... I wonder what PHM would say?

Regarding the pain in the ass with garage door opener programming. Depending which model you have, you may need a special bridge to make your opener compatible with Homelink because the industry moved to Security+ 2.0 encryption crap more than a decade ago, IIRC

I know for our latest Chamberlain I'd installed when the top gear sheared off the old one, I had to buy a part called the HOMELINK COMPATIBILITY BRIDGE (p/n is stupidly "HOMELINK RPTR"). Basically, they send you a new remote control and this box with an antenna pigtail you install to a power outlet near your opener. IIRC, it works as follows:

• Take your original original garage door opener remote, along with the new remote control they send you to program the new RPTR box with both.
• From that point forward, when you push the button on the new remote, the new RPTR box receives it, then broadcasts the other remote's code to the opener using the new encryption (or something?)
• You then use the new RPTP remote control to program your Homelink in the same fashion

My first RPTR bought off A-Zon was DOA and it came in a plain white, non-retail box, I spent hours trying to get it to work - I think it was a return someone sent back because it was broken and those dicks at A-Zon resold it. I ordered another one directly from Chamberlain, and it still took about an hour to get it all working.

I'm really not happy with the range using Homelink - range is great using the old, original remote. Homelink, I can pull under the RPTR, so my Homelink receiver in the car is less than 36" below it, and it still takes 5-10 seconds of holding the button before it 'wakes up' and does what it's supposed to do.

Anyway, get the model number off your opener. Google the part number, and see if it's using "Security+ 2.0", or just go to the manufacturer's website and call them or web-chat them to see if your "older version of Homelink transmitter" is compatible with your opener.

The aggravating part about this is Homelink KNEW this was coming. It wasn't something that just got snapped on them overnight. The transition happened a long time ago, yet even our 2012 and my old 2013 Toyotas, neither OEM Homelink unit was compatible with Security+ 2.0! LAME!

 

Ah shit i was thinking the same thing maybe hell get in here and give his opinion lmao. As for your advice with the door opener you are a friggin life saver! Its a fairly new chamberlain opener with the myq and all that crap and that explains it! It works on everyone elses car, (2018 nissan titan and infiniti qx80 and 21 CRV) so im jelly . I gotta give that a look thak you!

 

NP, this one has bit more people I know in the ass than I can count. Always the same situation: Either friend moves into new house, or they replace garage door opener, suddenly the opener doesn't work. I can give you some more details that may help.

Every door opener motor has a programming button on it. Its color says a lot.
If the programming button is ORANGE or RED in color, and the LED that flashes when pushing it is amber, it uses the older Security+ 390MHz rolling code.
If the programming button is PURPLE and the LED that flashes when you push it is amber, it's using the older Security+ 315MHz rolling code.
If the programming button on the opener motor is YELLOW and the LED that flashes when you push it is amber, it's using the newer Security+ 2.0 encrypted stuff

Security+ 2.0 came out in 2011. I can't remember where I looked it up, but my garage door opener is the Chamberlain C205 and it wouldn't work with our 2012 Highlander or 2013 Camry. I found a webpage somewhere that let you input your opener model number and the model of your car, and it told you whether the two were compatible.

The whole situation sucks. Like, if Homelink had been on top of it, it wouldn't have fixed anything for our older Tundras, but my Camry and Highlander would've worked find, and I wouldn't have needed to drop half the cost of the opener buying the stupid bridge, which just makes things potentially just as insecure as before!

 

AHA! Found it.

https://www.chamberlain.com/about-chamberlain/homelink

And yup. Plug in my 2012 Highlander and my C205, sure enough .... WOMP WOMP.

 

Haha yup. They jus cant seem to wrap their head around being ahead of the curve lol thank you so much ill update when j get the sensor in and again when i figure out the door opener

 

Even tho mine is an 04 DC, I would assume you should at least see what's shown below. That is mine if I unplug outside temp sensor.

 

Fellow late (05) AC ATL bro here -- Did you put in an overhead console with the sunroof controls? I have never seen one without those, so I'm curious. I went the all in one mirror gentex mirror route, and did not see any pigtails in the headliner side either. Curious if I could have saved the trouble of running the wires now...

 

uh oh... mine is completely blank its an 05 DC. If yours shows that without it plugged in i might have a problem lol. The light with the house thingy comes on the screen for the garage door when i push it so I know the leds work, and have power. Hate to ask this of you but if you have a chance could you take a pic of the plug that that whole assembly plugs into so i could see how many wires are going into it from the truck side... if you get the chance i would appreciate it.

 

Until I can, would you take a pic of the Overhead Console that you installed. Mine has moon roof controls also and want to post proper elec diag drawing for 2005 in case it helps !

 

yessir as soon as I am out of work ill get that up, mine is identical to yours moon roof controls color and everything lol

 

Ok, no need to post then. I’ll have pics up shortly.

2005 Tundra EWD - EWD611U

According to the 2005 EWD, the below should be your connectors....

1 Wh-Blk
2 Grn-Or
3 Red
4 Pink
5 Blue
6 Blk-Red
7 Wh-Grn
8 Grn
9 Red-Yel
10 Red-Wh
11 Grn-Yel
12 Pink-Blk
13

If you do a search in that 2005 EWD for the words Overhead Module , there are 11 items. Viewing those items shows you the connections and their color for matching of yours.

 

Yep theres the problem... ive only got 3 wires there haha

 

Temperature wasn't an option in the Access Cab or Regular Cab. It's a Double Cab-only feature, just like the Sunroof option.

If you want to install in the AC/RC trucks like ours, it's possible, but you need to get the right harnesses and custom-cut your headliner. I have the main harness required but opted to go Gentex without temp sensor (I'll probably sell the harness one of these days ... )

Others have gone Gentex and repurposed the temp sensor from any number of other vehicles out there.

 

Oh yeah, sorry if I wasn't clear. That's exactly what I did, .
Got a gentex with dim, temp, compass, and homelink. Love it.

For a second I thought there was a different option based on what you said, but I must have missed your specificity on the DC only.

 

Thank you Shifty for that very helpful information on the Homelink temp sensor for the Tundra Double Cab. I just purchased and installed one on my 2004 Tundra DC but am not getting any information on the Homelink display. What could be the problem?

 

The sensor itself is just a 2 wire, I think with a resistor. If you installed the sensor somewhere outside the vehicle, as long as you connect its two wires to the correct wires on your mirror, it should just “work”. But I’d need way more info on how you installed the sensor, and how it’s wired, which tented mirror, and the pinout info of its harness you have it. Where did you install the temp sensor, in the factory location of the radiator support?

 

Yes, I installed it in the factory position on the radiator support. The connectors interlock but don't seem to seat all the way to a click sound to lock. I have pressed them together as hard as possible. The home link is not in the mirror it is in the upper console with the map lights and moon roof switches. I bought the console online and it is from a 2006 Seqouia and suppose to have fitment to my 2004 Tundra DC Limited. All the lights and switches work. The compass is also working. But no temp display. Also have not been able to pair it to my garage door remote controller.

 

PS: I called Toyota and the part number for the temp sensor you provided is a match for my 2004 Tundra's VIN. My Tundra did not come originally with Homelink.

 

First off, you’re not the first DC guy to attempt putting a Sequoia overhead console in a DC, and I distinctly remember one guy whose Tundra OEM harness was different from the Sequoia display harness - compatibility wasn’t there, wire colors were different, in different order, needed to be repinned, and I think he just went out and got a DC overhead console instead which made it plug and play. You CANNOT trust auction sites on compatibility. They generalize too much.

You need an EWD for the ‘04, which is available for download in this forum, to pick apart the wire colors and their purpose in the connector or just look above for more info.

I would use that (or maybe look at the wire colors at the sensor), see if they match two wire colors on the plug at the harness in the headliner. If so, I would take a digital multimeter set to resistance. Test the reading at the two terminals on the back of the sensor. Then go into the truck, and test the harness in the headliner on the same colored wires and confirm you’re getting a signal there with similar reading of resistance. If you are, you know the circuit is good, but the Pinot for your console DOES NOT match your truck’s wiring.

If you need help, I need to see a clear picture of the wires on the Sequioa console, and for your factory connector in the headliner. @BubbaW does a kickass job of explaining what wiring needs to be in place for you to make this work. But to my recollection you cannot use a sequoia overhead console in a DC without swapping wires. However, I am old, and me memory is shit on some things.

 

Not best pics but here is the connector on the console from the 2006 Seqouia:

 

You are correct again. The original console connector has only 6 pins, while the 2006 Sequoia console connector is full of pins. Here is a pic of my original Tundra console connector:

 

Took me a minute to find it. This is the thread you need to read : https://www.tundras.com/threads/overhead-console-swap.101459/

Note each reply has a number in the top-right corner. Pay attention to reply #22 and #24 from Bubba. It's for a 2006 so may not apply directly. But check the extra couple pages. I thought my roof wire harness used green and grey for the temp sensor, but it may other colors.

Anyway, the only way you're going to get this to remotely close to working (unless return is an option, and you can find an '04 DC overhead console) is to:

• Find out the year of the Sequoia donor vehicle and pull its EWD here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ultimate-sequoia-wiring-diagrams-collection.111234/
• Find your EWD for your truck here: https://www.tundras.com/attachments/2004-tundra-ewd567u-pdf.543920/
• Determine what each wire does on the Sequoia console based on the EWD
• Holding the plugs together, or just drawing a keyed diagram, figure out where your wire mismatches are
• Re-pin one plug or the other so things match function

If I could return the part, I would. And I'd hunt for someone parting out a 2004 DC with the overhead console you want/need in the correct color. It's the easiest way to get a plug-and-play experience.

 

Wow, that does sound like quite a hassle. Would the wiring differences have anything to do with the Homelink not recognizing my garage remote? I have tried several times to and the console's homelink does not pair. (I never get the quick flashing, only the slow flashing). If would be an improvement if I could get at least get the Homelink to work.

 

Whether you can use Homelink with your opener or not is dependent upon which opener motor you have, and whether the Homelink version of the overhead console supports it. It sounds like the OEM unit is an olver version of Homelink line v3, and maybe your opener is one of the new Security 2.0+ motors, which is not compatible with a lot of OEM mirrors from our 2000-2006 era vehicles.

Sound like Greek? Read this.

If you gimme the model number of your motor, I can tell you for sure. Note, Gentex sells a myriad of mirrors, some of which don't require running a power feed, that are plug-and-play with Homelink v4 or v5 that support all modern opener motors with encryption, at a reasonable price. Furthermore, seeing the number of wires you have in your harness there, you may have the separate 6-pin flat connector for OEM mirror, which you can buy cheap adapters to adapt to most Gentex mirrors. Gentex made most of the OEM aftermarket mirrors with temp/compass/Homelink.

 

Does this give you the information you need?

 

Its a Liftmaster Security+2.0