07-21 carrier bearing

Hey guys, I'm about to replace my carrier bearing since mine has a fair bit of play in it. Obviously I didn't want to shell out the money for a toyota bearing, since spicer makes them. So I called spicer, and they gave me the part number 211750-1X
They told me this is a direct replacement, awesome! Only paid $66

So I got bearing today, and it looks identical to the current one, but it has a differnt toyota part number on the bearing itself, when I search that part number, it comes up as a first gen carrier bearing. Again, it looks identical to mine. I guess I'll find out in a few weeks when I actually replace it. I also picked up 3 spicer u joints, part # 5-178X

 

Also, does anyone know the size of the nut that holds the yoke on the driveshaft? I don't have all my tools with me so I need to get a socket to fit it. And does anyone have the torque specs for the center nut? I know on the first gens you have to tighten the nut to seat the bearing, back off a full turn, then torque to spec. I looked for this info and couldn't find it. So any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

I'd just pick up a cheap set of metric combination wrenches and after done roll them up in a rag, throw in a few ziplocs then place inside the spare tire well. You will then always have an emergency wrench set handy.

 

I have my impact with me and alot of my tools, just not my big sockets, I don't think you can get a wrench on the yoke nut either because it is recessed, and the ears of the yoke won't allow hardly any room to turn it.

 

I have obviously never changed a Toyota carrier bearing. The ones I changed always had a male and female splined shaft joint surrounded by the bearing. Simply remvove two or four bolts, knock off bearing, install new. I just learned something new. Thanks!

 

Here is a picture of the nut, I thought it was recessed more but it isn't. I still need a socket though so I can use my torque wrench on it

 

Are you certain the nut must be removed? Seems to me like the yolk would have a short female spline going through the bearing and the other side shaft would have a male spline. Much like I described previously. I dunno, never did a toyota before but it has got to be splined there somewhere unless I am missing something. I would think that you could unbolt carrier and it would drop allowing you to slip out of the tranny and then slip male spline out of the yoke. Then just knock off the bearing, and reassemble. Maybe I'm wrong, not sure. Just my experience.

 

Yeah the yoke has to be pulled off, then you can slide the carrier bearing off of the shaft. The intermediate shaft is a single piece, the rear shaft is a 2 piece sealed splined shaft

 

https://youtu.be/vvC7Iy3RKog

according to this guy it’s 30mm. Looking to do this soon, thanks for the part #s

 

Anyone know the torque of the 2 bolts?

 

No, but I roll with red loctite and about 75 ft lbs on em. Gone over 5k with no signs of issues. Mine is dropped about 3/4" with spacers.

 

Just an update

All parts numbers were correct. Carrier bearing is working great. For those interested, spicer makes 2 greasable u joints for this application, the only difference is the location of the grease zerk. The u joints I got have the zerk located on the body of the joint, the other has the zerk located on the end cap.

Also, the 30mm socket is correct to remove the yoke.

 

Originally posted this on the wrong area (Gen 1) . Just a heads up before you attempt this job- I recently decided to change the carrier bearing on my 2011 5.7 4wd. Thought it would be a quick job. I am a pretty competent mechanic and have a well equipped shop- lift, pullers, torches etc. when I tried to separate the yoke from the front shaft, it wouldn't budge. Tried a big puller, heat and even finally put in a 30 press. Only solution was to replace the entire driveshaft assembly. Instead of a $40 bearing, $1400 driveshaft. Also, make sure you use a 6 point socket to remove the 30 mm nut. It is really shallow and if you try a 12 point socket you are almost sure to just round off the nut as it will take a lot of force to break it free.

 

Update to my post on problem replacing carrier bearing- I didn't mention why I changed it. I started to get a random fairly heavy vibration definitely wheel speed related ( sounded a lot like driving over a rumble strip) At first it only happened every few days. It didn't change by shifting to neutral or 4wd, or changing speed. If I came to a complete stop it would be gone when resuming driving. Eventually after a couple of weeks it started happening more often. Been three weeks now since installing new driveshaft no vibration. Fingers crossed! Fyi all the U joints were in perfect condition. 157000 miles. Original owner.

 

Is there a quality u-joint available that utilizes a grease zirk in the end cap for the Tundra? Part number?

 

Yes, I'm currently in the process of changing my u joints and carrier bearing and ordered Spicer parts for the job. The Spicer u joint with zerks in the end cap is 5-1350-1x. Spicer Carrier bearing is 211750-1x. I drive a 2011 Tundra double cab 4x4. Hope this helps someone

 

I realize I'm necro'ing an old thread but just did this today on an '08 4wd.

I used the same Spicer part # in OP. A few observations:
1)it's ideal to have a 30mm chrome (ie non-impact) socket to gain the thinner socket walls and smaller socket OD. I made due with an impact socket because it's all I had
2)to drive the splined driveshaft out of the yoke, an air hammer worked really well. I clamped the yoke in a vise and hit the center-drilled end of the shaft
3)I still had to press the carrier bearing off the shaft. To allow better fit of a bearing splitter I cut the steel clamshell off the old carrier bearing along with some rubber on the backside. I used my 50T shop press, primarily because it's tall enough to hold the shaft off the ground
4)I just used the nut to drive the new carrier bearing back on along with the yoke.

 

Does anyone know the part number for the lock nut that holds the yoke to the shaft? I have a manual reference showing that it is torqued to 94 ft/lb, but need the part number. Thanks.

 

You should be able to call any dealer parts counter and ask them to look it up. Personally, I would call 3 and make sure they all match before ordering.

 

https://slewhousemotorsport.com/products/toyota-billet-adjustable-center-support-bearing