Crackhead resurrection

No more drunk posting for you sir. Let the professionals handle that. Beer and math don't mix.

 

Tested MAF using FSM specs after Watchung live data on the MAF jump around.



Idle is 4.5-5.5 gm/sec.
Racing without load (2,500 RPM.) 13.0-20.0 gm/sec.




OEM test specs. Current ambient temp is 50°F.



Ordered Hitachi OEM equivalent replacement.

 

Finally got around to swapping my new connector, and heat shrinking these wires. Swapped each wire one by one so I'd make sure not to mess up the pin out.




Finished product.

 

why did those wires burn??

 

I never really found out. Based on the pictures, and my own eyeballs I assumed that the heat source was external relative to the wiring. Rather than internal via an overcurrent.

The conductor still looks good, and is not burnt.

Again, I assumed that dilbert burnt those wires when he was welding the straight pipes on.

 

dilburnt haha lolzzz

 

Not knowing jack shit about the finite geography of KY, I’m glad to see you’re posting on here about more troubleshooting on Crackie and not showing us pictures of your entire livelihood laid flat around you.

 

Unfortunately, there was still some devastation. Start here at this post, and then use the arrows to thumb through my posts...

 

Damn. That’s insane. And sad. I’ve been through a few small naders in the midwest, but that is absolutely devastating.

 

Placed an order for a new OEM temp sensor, and temp sender.

Temp sensor: 89422-20010 (ECM)
Temp Sender: 83420-20040 (Instrument cluster temp Guage.)

Entering the "Throw parts at it" stage.

 

Did this change anything on the 4wd system? Or still just waiting on other 4wd actuator to come in?

 

Waiting on the other actuator.

 

Brake tube clamp organizer thing.


Steering shaft seal.


Rear transfer case actuator.



Now, how do the front ADD, and the Rear actuator work in sync. I understand how I can put the transfer case in 2wd because of this video below.
https://youtu.be/rgUkydSCcHI

What I do not understand currently is if the front add has limited switches, or has something that I need to move back in sync with the rear one.

Any advjce?

 

I thought EL mentioned some way you could do this without pulling anything, but it wasn't sanctioned by Toyota.

 

He did, and I will. You take the triangle plate off the actuator, and then remove a gear. That will let you slide the actuator off the long shaft.

My main question is this. Does the front add have to be in time with the rear actuator?

If it does, how do I know that that front one is in the proper spot?

 

I used this great thread from our very own site to help solve my 4WD problems:

https://www.tundras.com/threads/front-diff-transfer-case-actuator-diagnosing.51474/

Also, this YouTube



Some pretty heady shit for sure, but you can handle it!

 

So… how do we bypass the front add for some 2lo goodness? Or would the computer nannies pitch a fit?

 

Re 2Low: Ooh good one. Anyone with a first gen live close enough to BigWhiteTRD?

 

I don't know but I know the first gen tacos have a way to a 2lo mod. I can't remember if it's also called the "grey wire mod" or if that's actually to be able to engage the elocker in 4hi and 2wd

 

New Hitachi OEM equivalents MAF installed.


New unit.

 

New MAF did not fix the P0125 code.

 

Maybe not, but boy did that old one look crusty!!!

 

I'm pretty much just throwing parts at it now, but not completely indiscriminately. Worst case scenario is I leave the truck with Bruce, and let him figure it out.

 

Made a little head way with the 4wd.

New rear actuator is on. New silicone vacuum/breather tube too.


The xfr case was definitely stuck in between 4wd and 2wd. Manually moved to 2wd. (Bottomed out the shaft from xfr case to actuator) No more blinky light!

I can hear everything move, and shifter like it's supposed to. Went fior a drive down the driveway. Pressed the button, and heard the xfr case shift. Blinky light.... .

It did shift back to 2wd though. So that's good. Possible that I pushed the shaft in too far?

Gratuitous no blinky pics.

 

New temp sender sensor for the cluster. While I'm in there...



New coolant sensor for the ECM. Throwin parts at it now... engraved part number seen on sensor.



Teq stampage errywhurr. Katakana...

Hope to install these soon. Low hopes for mending the p0125 code with these, but hey.

 

My growing pile of parts to install.



Guess I really should give Keith @dirtydeeds a call for some injectors since those are actually on the problem list for P0125

 

Noah, is your v6 4x4 or no? Iirc it's auto too, right?

 

One wheel peel wit da open diff.

 

Too bad the ones I have up for adoption are for the 5vz

 

I mean, if we can get some cross verification that they'd work, I'd only need to buy two. Lol