Maestro RR Install

I am going to be installing a new stereo and with it the Maestro RR idatalink module. I plan on running new wires for all of the speakers except the 3 dash speakers. My question is, when I program the Maestro should I tell it I am using the factory amp or should I just disconnect the factory amp and tell it I am not using it?

I was curious if you lose anything when disconnecting the amp besides the 3 dash speakers?

 

The dash speakers don't run through the amp. They are powered directly from the head unit. If you look at the wiring diagrams for each set of the Meastro instructions, Jbl, no -JBL, etc, you will see that the wiring is the same. I installed mine in my 2020, and there are some cables that you will not use, to include the OBD cable. The data is sent through the single data cable. Let me look....I have a pic of the cables that you will not use.

 

That would be great thanks! I also noticed that there is a skinny wide black connector taped to the factory wiring harness not connected to anything. What is that for?

 

That connector was unused byToyota. These trucks are pre-wired so you will find a few that are unused based on trim level. Found the pic....

 

Forgot to mention...they have a factory USB retention cable as well. Part # is UT03. I got it from Crutchfield.

 

If you are using aftermarket amp. Turn off the amp setting when flashing the module.
Curious mind wants to know. Why are you running new wires to the new speakers?
The factory wires can handle a lot of power. Unless you are building a monstrous system.

 

I didn't want to use a LOC or mess with the harness by the factory amplifier.

 

Gotcha. Will you just power the speakers with the radio?

 

No my plan is to run 2 JL 6x9's in the front and 2 JL 5 1/4" Components in the back powered by a JL 4 channel amp with a JL 12W3 powered by a JL Mono amp. I've already ran the power wire to the back and will finish up everything this weekend if I can handle this cold blast coming to Florida. Supposed to be 32 degrees this weekend in Cocoa Beach! The biggest challenge I have is drilling a hole in the connector from the door to get to the inside of the cab.

 

Just drilled through those connecters myself, go real slow, drill a pilot hole 1/8" then follow with 19/64. The intel I found guy used 11/32nd...just a little too big for me... found it easier to disconnect both halves of connecter and reconnect them outside of truck. Makes it easier to see what your doing, but be careful as you may spin connecter as bit catches on other side. Makes your asshole pucker big time. Celebrate with the beer afterwards not before. I was extremely apprehensive about doing this. Just take your time. Still a pita, but better than dynamatting.

 

I'm over on the Tampa side....we aren't used to this crap lol.

 

Yep, got down to 29 the other night. Actually turned the heat on. As a child in Pa. I would play in the snow in shorts and t shirt, but after being in Florida since 84 not anymore. Anything below 50 Jacket comes out.

 

Ya I'm a bit on edge doing this as well, but I'm hoping all goes well and it's worth it. Thanks for the advice. I'll certainly take it!

 

I had ice on my windshield yesterday morning. Not exactly what I was ready for in the morning!

 

Same here. Clearwater hit 37 with frost. I've been here since 1996 when I transferred from Montana.

 

It would be easier if you just get the amp bypass harness. Mount your new amp under the passenger seat. Bypass harness is right there. No drilling anything.

 

My staff in Jordan are telling me they're getting snow later today, crazy.

 

I bypassed the amp in my 2015 and I wasn't happy with the installation and putting it back to factory when I sold it was also a bit annoying. The only hard part of doing it this way is literally the drilling to get the speaker wires to the amp. Other then that it is easy and even easier to just slip the factory radio in if I ever get rid of the truck.

However, can you link me the bypass you are talking about so I can see if that is even what I did in the last truck? Do you have to use a LOC with the bypass?

 

If you are using aftermarket HU, you do not need the LOC. Just 3 pairs of rcas bout 6ft long. From radio to aftermarket amp under-seat.
This is the harness i was thinking. Most guys on here run them. But since yours a 2021, i would email them first to confirm the pinouts are correct.
https://www.autoharnesshouse.com/41112.html

This adapter literally plug into the same plugs that you unplug from the factory amp. This gives you all the speakers lead so you can just plug into the aftermarket amp speakers output ports.

 

Ok gotcha. This is basically the same thing I did, but I ran it to a LOC which I obviously didn't need to do. So, in theory I have a harness similar to this just not purchased from this store. My only issue doing it this way I guess is that I wanted to put the subwoofer amp at a minimum behind the rear seat. I suppose I could run a longer 4 AWG wire from the power distro block if I put the 4 channel under the passenger seat.

You certainly gave me something to think about. Thanks for your time!

 

I was also thinking in term of serviceability. In some odd chance that the door need to come off, maybe from accident or whatever. When they unplug the connection at the door. They will see a pair of wires running through it. They will cut it. Then you get your truck back and your speaker dont work. You now have to go back in, pull the wires out and re-run the wires. But you think, i can just solder the existing wires back. Sure, you can do that. But that would involve more down time on your part. I dont know, maybe I’m over thinking things but that’s what goes through my mind.

 

i would run the extra 4awg power like you said, back to the seat. The sub rca from your new radio will run back there also. If you are running distro block. Will you be running a single 0 awg power wire from the battery to the distro-block, then split the 4awg wire to each amp? I think that’s what i would do if i am running 2 amps. You can run the 0 gauge from engine to under driver’s seat. Then split your 4 gauge there to each amp. Or however you plan on doing.

 

You make a good point. My mind is thinking a little outside of the box and kind of how Taco Tunes does their install. Right now I am still leaning on new wiring, but I am going to give it real thought. Heck I need to figure out how I am going to get this JL 12W4 in the stealthbox to actually fit. It is super close and I am not sure if the bolts will pull the rear seat down all the way with it behind them. Maybe I need a slight mod to make it work, but that'll be that last thing I try.

 

I asked several buddies of mine that do audio installs and they said there was no reason for me to run 0 AWG and that 4 AWG all the way through from battery to distro and distro to amp was sufficient for my power requirements. 0 AWG is a real pain in the ass so I was easily convinced to not use it. I'm only pushing 400 watts RMS to the sub and 50 watts RMS x 4 to the door speakers. Nothing crazy.

 

Honestly, if you’re not in a rush to get everything in. I would check out some of the install thread at the top of this sub-forum. There are lots of helpful info in them. It may help simplify your install so you dont have to spend too much unnecessary time on it.
Not too sure bout the sub box. Slap it in for a test fit. See what need change. Hopefully it will work.

 

Do you already have the 2 amps? Have you considered a single 5 chan?
I have the pionner 5 chan amp setup. It made the install much easier. But if you already have the amps. Go with it.

 

Ya I already have the amps. I purchased them a different times when I had different setups and equipment.

 

I was thinking about moving the tweeters from the components in the back door to the front sail panel. Do you think that will be too much? I have these in the front door: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2690X/JL-Audio-C2-690tx.html and these in the rear: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2525/JL-Audio-C2-525.html

 

I can’t really say. Maybe one of the more knowledgeable members on here can chime in.
I feel like your speakers setup are reverse.
Majority of people wants the components up front for that staging image. The coaxial (6x9 you have) are usually in the rear as a “fill” sounds. So it’s not just empty in the back.
I personally run components up front AND rear.
The front tweeters are installed in the dash. Rear tweeters are in the sail panels. I have a sequoia jbl system. 12:1 sounds system from factory.

if u put the rear tweeter up front, you’ll probably have to run new wires from the jl crossover to it some how.
From what I’ve read on here, most will disconnect the dash speakers and run the tweet in the front sail panels.

 

I think you’re creating a bunch of unnecessary work by not utilizing the factory wiring. Also agree with running components in all doors.