OEM skid plate fitment issues

Hey all, I got an OEM skid plate from another member, off an 05' DC 2wd, but it doesn't seem to fit my 06' DC 4wd. I'm wondering if the problem is in my truck or in the skid plate. When I install the front 3 bolts the back 2 don't align. Also the motor mounts prevent it from mounting flush with the frame rail where the hole is (notice the gap in the second photo), which the short bolt wont screw into.

My research shows the same skid plate part number for both trucks. I'm wondering if the PO of my truck got some front end damage, knocking all of this off alignment, which explains why there was no skid plate on it when I bought it? hahaha

Can anyone lay some wisdom down?

 

Second pic is the back end of the skid plate being held up to the frame. The wide oval indentation is where the bolt goes through. The bolt hole is centered on the oval and is why the red line I drew is angled because it doesnt align with the hole in the frame, where the upper end of the red line is. Tough taking pics while holding it up. Haha.

Hopefully someone can confirm the skid plate is compatible between 2wd and 4wd models. If they are then I know something’s not right with the truck

 

I've got a 4WD so not sure if I can help, but in this reply I posted a pic of mine, which I washed for the 1st time in its life this weekend. https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-1231#post-2600468

Here's that pic to save a click. The only tip I can give is you gotta make sure the two clips in the front catch. They should be able to hold the entire front of the pan in place mostly on its own. If they're in the right place, the rear of the pan should fall into place, I think? When mounting mine, I normally clip it in front, then insert a single rear bolt in. Then do the other rear bolt, and save the front fasteners for last.

 

Any room to elongate the holes at the back of the plate? Move the holes forward and run washers if you can.

 

Make sure the front "clips" are engaging properly before lining up the bolt holes.

 

Thanks all. I noticed the front clips and took advantage of em. I could try and elongate the skid holes as @Darkness said but the other problem is the front diff mount/bolts hang lower than the frame and leave a nice size gap making the back 2 bolts too short to thread into the hole. I bought 5 bolts (all the same size) as the part diagram said.

First pic is where the mounts rub the skid (blue circles), second pic is a view from behind the skid looking to the driver side diff mount showing the gap.

I’d have to either get a longer bolt (anyone know a good starting point to find one that has the right threads?) or flatten the ribs of the skid flat. Seems like a lot of work for an OEM part that should fit fairly easy, no? Maybe I’m missing something.

 

Are you lifted? It looks like that's a diff drop.

 

@Casper421 do you know anything about this? I’m pretty sure we have the same skid row plate and the OEM plate @Chevy9124 has came off my truck. Looks identical to the pic @shifty` put up.

 

I do not have a diff drop for reference but this would be my best guess. Appears the drop is making the diff mount and the skid come in contact.

@Chevy9124 either hammer down the ribs or cut out the small section that is making contact. You won’t lose any protection from those 2 areas being removed.

 

I highly doubt Toyota would make different skid plates for 2wd and 4wd but I’ve been wrong many times before. Looks like my old skid but I haven’t touched that in 3 years.

 

I tend to agree. Especially two skid plates that would be almost identical in every way.

 

My sequoia skid didnt fit my AC. The fan shroud bottom piece, didnt fit either.

 

Weird. When I asked Skid Row if their plates would fit my truck. Erik measured a Sequoia he had there. But that was for tranny.

I just put the oil skid on, I’m pretty sure @Casper421 and I have the same setup, but he’s 4WD 06 and I’m 2WD 05. Both DC. @Chevy9124, here’s the bolt size.

M8x1.25.

I can send you two that came from Skid Row I’m not using. Shitty bolts, but extended at 35mm.

 

I wouldn't mind seeing some skids or nerfs that look like the ones on our new-to-us Highlander. I don't think CarMax was savvy enough to realize how much these cost as an OEM add-on based on the already stupidly low price we got on this (IMO) and I didn't really like them at first but love them now.

Anyway, I don't see why it would be hard to press-brake out a brushed lock-in overlay for another couple hundred bucks with texturized inserts, it'd be a nice diversion from the rudimentary square/round tubing setups I see on the market. We don't have the sharp lower contour to conceal this much, but ...

 

Well I'll be damned. @w666 I think you may've hit the nail on the head. The PO must've done the drop when they added the coil spacers, I certainly didn't. But damn, I wish I noticed it sooner, I woulda went with stiffer springs on the new coilovers I recently installed to eliminate the spacers. hahaha Oh well, I guess I have better CV angles than I thought.

I think that's what I'll do if it doesn't reduce the skid's integrity.

Thanks for the offer @alb1k but I think I'll modify the ribs so I can use the bolts I have.

Man, that was a fun goose chase. Thanks everyone for the help! I'll let you know how it goes with the minor skid mods

 

I mean, @Chevy9124 if it's just a matter of a drop, just install an appropriate spacer between the skid plate and frame.

 

That's an option too, I would just need to find longer bolts. I see that most diff drop kits come with spacers and longer bolts for this exact reason.

So it's either I use my cut-off wheel to cut the ribs so I can use the stock bolts I already have or I go buy spacers and longer bolts. Not sure which one is easier.....hahaha

 

Don't cut it up, they're rare and hard to find!

 

A quick trip to any hardware store will net you what you need. Bring the bolts with you so you can get the same width, and thread pitch. Then walk down the hardware isle a little further to get a corresponding collar.