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2004 DC 4x2 Bilstein 5100s

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by kidked888, Feb 26, 2022.

  1. Feb 26, 2022 at 2:23 PM
    #1
    kidked888

    kidked888 [OP] New Member

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    Just purchased some 5100s for the rear, and waiting to hear back on if they still have adjustable 5100 in stock for the front. My trucks current suspension is 100% stock and I would like to keep it as close to that once the 5100s are installed, in hopes of having to not get new aftermarket UCAs etc. Also going to replace the UBJs with OEM.

    Question is, based off research I have done online and on this forum I "think" I am safe if I put the notch on either the first notch (stock) or 2nd notch (0.7" lift). I will be keeping the stock springs and replacing the current shock with the 5100.

    Plan on renting the ball joint press, strut compressor, and pitmanupload_2022-2-26_16-21-30.jpg arm puller from local auto parts store.

    2004 DC 4x2

    upload_2022-2-26_16-19-3.jpg

    upload_2022-2-26_16-21-30.jpg
     
  2. Feb 26, 2022 at 3:16 PM
    #2
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    2” Lift, Bilstein 5100’s and 885’s second notch, Rear 5100’s Icon 3 Leaf Pack and Firestone Air Bags w/Daystar Cradles. Spider Trax 1.25” Wheel Spacers, 4Runner Pro Wheels, Falken AT3W 285/75r17 (34x11).
    You don’t need a strut compressor if you support the lower control arm, remove the coil over upper bolt and slowly lower the jack down to relieve pressure on the coil spring.

    I’ve done 7 Toyota front coil over / spring swap outs and I’ve never used a spring compressor.

    #2 should get you close to a level stance.

    Also, it’s easier to pop out the upper ball joint when the knuckle is removed and you’re working on a bench.

    Make sure to do lower ball joints as well. Only use factory Toyota.

    Also, I’ve never used a pitman arm puller ever on an IFS Toyota. Loosen the castle nuts and the wack it with a 3lb sledge a few times and they pop free.

    This is last weekend on the Sequoia.

    DB2DCC9E-DF63-459F-925E-93A7C7B78F46.jpg
     
    alb1k likes this.
  3. Feb 26, 2022 at 3:17 PM
    #3
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Should be fine.

    You could even do 2nd notch/1st notch (or 1st/bottom) to level out lean too.
     
  4. Feb 26, 2022 at 3:56 PM
    #4
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    2nd notch should be doable. I could not put it to the third notch with the autozone compressor
     
  5. Feb 26, 2022 at 4:43 PM
    #5
    kidked888

    kidked888 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the info, my LBJs were replaced with OEM roughly 15k miles ago so they should be good.

    can you walk me through more of how to avoid using the strut compressor? Would I unbolt all 3 on the top and top nut on the shock then relieve pressure on the lower control arm?
     
  6. Feb 26, 2022 at 5:00 PM
    #6
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    I think he is thinking of a straight coilover replacement. You need a spring compressor to do 5100’s. The autoZone compressor struggles with truck springs. Being real
     
  7. Feb 26, 2022 at 7:39 PM
    #7
    kidked888

    kidked888 [OP] New Member

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    What do you mean it struggles? Would it be better to take it somewhere and just have them install then?
     
    Hbjeff[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Feb 26, 2022 at 7:45 PM
    #8
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    i tried to do one. I could not compress a DC spring enough to get it to clip 3. It felt super dangerous to try and go farther with the autozone tool
     
  9. Feb 26, 2022 at 8:32 PM
    #9
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    2” Lift, Bilstein 5100’s and 885’s second notch, Rear 5100’s Icon 3 Leaf Pack and Firestone Air Bags w/Daystar Cradles. Spider Trax 1.25” Wheel Spacers, 4Runner Pro Wheels, Falken AT3W 285/75r17 (34x11).
    Also, if your LCA Cam Adjusters aren’t seized, it might’ve a good time to add some anti seize.

    You 100% do not need a strut compressor.

    Pop out the upper ball joint. Support the lower control arm with a jack, undo the center shock (coil over) nut, then lower the jack.

    So much safer than using a spring compressor.
     
  10. Feb 26, 2022 at 9:13 PM
    #10
    kidked888

    kidked888 [OP] New Member

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    What about when you go to re-mount though? How would you compress the spring and get the center coil over but out without first getting the coil compressed.
     
  11. Feb 26, 2022 at 9:41 PM
    #11
    alb1k

    alb1k Always Coming From Take Me Down

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    It's good
    Weight of the truck. There's a you tube video. I'll try to find it.
     
  12. Feb 26, 2022 at 9:44 PM
    #12
    alb1k

    alb1k Always Coming From Take Me Down

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    It's good
    Dannydirtyfingers and dinosaur like this.
  13. Feb 26, 2022 at 9:53 PM
    #13
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    alb1k[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Feb 28, 2022 at 12:03 PM
    #14
    kidked888

    kidked888 [OP] New Member

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    If I go this route would the coil stay bolted in the top hat the entire time? Jack underneath the lower Control arm, loosen center top bolt on shock. Lower jack, take out old shock, insert new shock and get bolt through that connect to lower control arm, raise jack again to apply pressure on coil until I can get center bolt threaded on new shock? Are those steps correct?
     
  15. Feb 28, 2022 at 12:37 PM
    #15
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

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    I would consider replacing the bushing on the top hat since it is so old
     
  16. Feb 28, 2022 at 12:56 PM
    #16
    Omohundro

    Omohundro 2018 Not a Pro

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    This is 5100 on #2
    86292DC5-4F6B-4727-8068-E818049ADF97.jpg
     
  17. Feb 28, 2022 at 12:57 PM
    #17
    kidked888

    kidked888 [OP] New Member

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    Stock coils?
     
  18. Feb 28, 2022 at 1:11 PM
    #18
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    For the UBJ, get this tool, makes it so much easier because the rental tools don't fit quite right.
     
    dinosaur likes this.
  19. Feb 28, 2022 at 2:07 PM
    #19
    Omohundro

    Omohundro 2018 Not a Pro

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    Bak Revolver, BedRug, Undercover Swingcase, PopLock, Bilstein 5160(rear), Firestone RideRite, TRD rear sway bar, Coachbuilder +2 rear shackles, Andersen 5” aluminum adjustable hitch, TRD dual exhaust, VLEDS interior leds including the footwell kit, TundraTex FRAC mod, VLEDS LPR backup tag mount led, Husky X-Act mats, Color matched cup holder bezel (silver), Ceramic 20% tint all around, 50% Ceramic windshield, Color Matched door handles & mirror caps, The “Stubby” antenna, AMP Research steps, VLEDS 6”step lights, ToyTec/5100 Bilstein coil overs, 700lbs red ToyTec springs (2.75” lift), 20x9 +18 Method 306 custom painted and custom fit center caps, Gorilla spline lugs, Bridgestone Revo 3s 285/60R20, TRD skid plate, RaptorLiner “Red” tow hooks, 19 Pro black LED headlights, VLEDS Triton V6 turns, Rigid SAE D series fog lamps, 19 TRD hood scoop, 2019 TRD Pro grille, Coachbuilder bumper shims, X-Pel protect under mud guards, Opti Coat Ceramic, Opti Coat Sealed. And some snakes and sparklers, because they are my favorite!
    Yeah all stock other than the 5100s. It’s also 2wd.
     
    Toyoda Tundra likes this.

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