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Brakes

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by bsktball55, Mar 2, 2022.

  1. Mar 2, 2022 at 11:26 AM
    #1
    bsktball55

    bsktball55 [OP] New Member

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    Do you guys feel it is worth it to replace the oem brakes with something like a powerstop. I have about 90,000 miles on my original brakes so they lasted a long time. Is there a significant difference ce in performance if I go to an after market Brake pad and rotor or should I just put oems back on and be done with it?
     
  2. Mar 2, 2022 at 12:24 PM
    #2
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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  3. Mar 2, 2022 at 12:25 PM
    #3
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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  4. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:01 PM
    #4
    gdiep

    gdiep I like cookies

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    I put Powerstops on my Tundra and they lasted about 25k, the braking ability reduced quite a bit and the rear rotors were completely shot. The OEM brakes were good for 50k. I would not buy Powerstops again. In fact I bought EBC and Centric for my other vehicles since my experience with Powerstops.
     
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  5. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:18 PM
    #5
    timsp8

    timsp8 Former Tundra owner for 13 years

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    Agree with above about a bad experience with powerstop. They were “warped” in less than 15k miles. Stoping power felt worse.

    I replaced them with stoptech slotted cryo rotors and ebc yellow pads and it’s a lot better.
     
    Seafury likes this.
  6. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:20 PM
    #6
    HulkSmurf14

    HulkSmurf14 ...Weighted Average...

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    buybrakes.com will help you out...EBC or Stoptech Rotors are recommended...
     
  7. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:23 PM
    #7
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 Old Member

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    I'll have to replace pads again soon. Rotors have yet to be turned and I'm at a little over 70k.

    Think it'll be fine to upgrade just the rotors?
     
  8. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:25 PM
    #8
    HulkSmurf14

    HulkSmurf14 ...Weighted Average...

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    I'd do rotors and pads...or just pads if rotors are good or able to be turned...
     
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  9. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:27 PM
    #9
    texasrho83

    texasrho83 Old Member

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    Rotors are not grooved or warped. My last pad replacement was using PowerStop Z36 stuff.
     
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  10. Mar 2, 2022 at 1:37 PM
    #10
    Wahayes

    Wahayes Older I get the wiser I realize my dad was

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    Holy crap, oem rotors that lasted 90k?!? My oem lasted less than 30k , after the second set i went aftermarket. Crossdrilled and slotted rotors and aftrrmarket pads. If they last longer great, if they last the same they at least definitley stop better
     
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  11. Mar 2, 2022 at 5:09 PM
    #11
    Seafury

    Seafury Kickin names, and takin ass!

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    I don't get the issues people have with the OEM brakes.

    Then again, I have lower than average mpg in my truck so YMMV after all to some degree I guess.

    There are some serious inconsistencies across Tundra's I feel like.

    The OEM brakes are fantastic in my experiences across 2 Tundra's

    Of vehicles I've owned or grown up in and around;

    3rd gen 4runners OEM brakes sucked. (factory rotors warp easy, too thin by design)
    T100 brakes sucked. (factory rotors warp easy, too thin by design)
    1st gen Tundra brakes sucked (I think I heard but may be mistaken).
    Then they finally got it right for 4runners and Tundra's from what I've seen.

    I literally just replaced my front brakes a few weeks ago myself at 78k miles with OEM pads and rotors.

    Many stealerships (in my experiences in NoVa) will try to give you junk pads which are around $70+/-
    If they offer you cheap pads after you ask for OEM factory pads like they ALL did to me, demand to see the listings they have and demand the factory OEM pads.
    They do seem to cost over $100 in my experience, but I felt it was worth it.
    They are the best combination I have found.

    Aftermarket brakes are great, for race vehicles, show vehicles ect.
    In reality they eat pads, make tons of dust, and often warp with regular use.
    Because,
    They are really designed for vehicles that either don't really use them (show vehicles)
    Or race vehicles which change them every race, or close to it.
    They don't see the kind of mileage and heat cycles that happen in normal street use.

    Literally every vehicle more or less comes with the best brake parts design because they are critically important to work right so manufactures take it very seriously.
    It's rare that you can improve on them overall unless moving to race brakes with new calipers too.

    That's my take on brakes.
     
  12. Mar 2, 2022 at 5:14 PM
    #12
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    I would say what are your needs/how do you use the truck. If OEM worked fine then stick with that. If you're looking for slightly better performance than ebc yellows with stop tech rotors. If ultimate braking is needed the of course a full aftermarket BBK is where it's at.

    IMG_8246.jpg
    IMG_8247.jpg
    IMG_8240.jpg
     

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  13. Mar 2, 2022 at 9:03 PM
    #13
    Crunch527

    Crunch527 Brute Force and Ignorance

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    Powerstop sucks…I have their shit on my Tundra now…longer stopping distances and don’t really bite until they are hot.

    Don’t know about stop tech and yellow stuff pads but in my opinion OEM rotors and pads is the way to go…
     
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  14. Mar 3, 2022 at 7:59 AM
    #14
    bsktball55

    bsktball55 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, I think I am going to go with OEM, they worked just fine for me and have lasted 90,000 miles so there's no real reason to switch to switch.
     
    bmw345 likes this.
  15. Mar 3, 2022 at 8:35 AM
    #15
    Wahayes

    Wahayes Older I get the wiser I realize my dad was

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    Mine may have to do with living in the mountains and towing in the mountains?? Idk. But i do know i cannot make longer than 35k on rotors and pads, oem at least. Hoping for better out of these aftermarkets
     
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  16. Mar 3, 2022 at 1:56 PM
    #16
    Seafury

    Seafury Kickin names, and takin ass!

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    That will certainly affect your brake longevity/quality and is likely your issue.
    Extra weight + hills will wear them out faster for sure.

    Also make sure your "OEM" pads are actually the ones they use at the factory, not whatever cheap shit the dealer hands you when you ask for OEM pads.
    3 in my area tried to hand me "OEM" pads that were cheaper aftermarket ones when I asked parts dept person for rotors and OEM pads.
    I had to literally insist on the factory ones which are way more expensive, but imo way more worth it.
    Some of them didn't even carry them but luckily one did, and they had the lowest rotor price in my area to so win/win.

    It is hella hilly right around my neighborhood, but much less so 1 mile away in any direction except for one direction which is the same or worse for hills due to geography of my area.
    I also don't tow (Yet. Where r u house and boat? LOL) just use my small bed for random household diy crap, vacation/beach gear in the summer, and my fishing kayak most weekends when its warm enough :D

    Also has to do with driving style, I drive like an asshole and am ALWAYS in a hurry, slow people piss me off lol.
    That leads me to often be on the gas close to lights and stop signs when I should be coasting more or at least not speeding up.
    This leads to hard often braking, which wears pads more and adds heat to rotors.

    Also, there is a simple trick for anyone that has problems warping rotors of any kind.
    STOP holding your brake pedal at stop lights.
    Especially in warm climates/summer/commuting traffic.
    Holding the super-hot pads against the hot rotors transfers more heat, a lot more heat, and puts pressure on the rotor in one spot, and leads to warping of rotors more than any other issue.

    I either slip in neutral and foot off the brake once someone is behind me at a light (so someone's running brake lights for the next person to see as they approach) only on flat ground obviously.
    Otherwise, I go to neutral and the parking brake, or into Park itself to hold on a hilly traffic light area.
    Yes, you need to be on the ball to get your shit in gear when the light changes so as not to piss off people behind you but that's what I try to do.

    Changing my driving style since I went from my 4runner to the Tundra has made a difference that I can see.
    Now if only I could get the mpg to improve with my gentler driving style lol.

    Pipe dreams!

    BTW, we need some fishing and hunting emoji's, along with more offroad ones.
     
  17. Mar 3, 2022 at 7:23 PM
    #17
    04rktaco

    04rktaco New Member

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    Had bad experience with powerstop too. Front rotors warped about 15k miles and never felt like they stopped very good unless you really were on the brakes hard. Went back to Oem and never happier nice and smooth and good stopping power
     
  18. Mar 4, 2022 at 6:15 AM
    #18
    bsktball55

    bsktball55 [OP] New Member

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    If I'm not having any issues with my rotors right now is there any reason to replace them? They have 90,000 miles on them, but there is no pulsing or shaking when braking.
     
  19. Mar 4, 2022 at 7:11 AM
    #19
    Wahayes

    Wahayes Older I get the wiser I realize my dad was

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    Im sure oem were oem. My first set of brakes was at 33k on the truck
     
  20. Mar 4, 2022 at 8:43 AM
    #20
    Seafury

    Seafury Kickin names, and takin ass!

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    They do get thinner over time, and heat cycle damage.
    Especially if you have them turned (milled down to flat) with every brake change.
    If they are still within spec, and not warped you are fine to keep using them.
    But the thinner they are the easier they will warp so it's a trade off.
    Nowadays I usually replace my rotors with every brake change as having them turned to reuse just leads to them warping.
    It seems like a lot of vehicles these days the rotors are more or less one time use.

    That's my take.
    YMMV
     
    Malinois38 likes this.
  21. Mar 4, 2022 at 8:45 AM
    #21
    Seafury

    Seafury Kickin names, and takin ass!

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    Righton, so they were like these?

    20220211_153958.jpg
     
  22. Mar 4, 2022 at 9:45 AM
    #22
    Wahayes

    Wahayes Older I get the wiser I realize my dad was

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    The first set that smoked at 33k were what came on the truck when it was new. Second set yes were like those
     
  23. Mar 4, 2022 at 9:58 AM
    #23
    Seafury

    Seafury Kickin names, and takin ass!

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    Very good.

    Sounds like you may be a candidate for actual upgraded brakes.
    Maybe harder pad compound, more metal, which needs to heat up more to grip, and is harder on rotors.

    Or just keep doing what you're doing.
     
  24. Mar 4, 2022 at 1:39 PM
    #24
    pman9003

    pman9003 New Member

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    Well my wallet is certainly going to get lighter now. Do you have a link to that Alcon kit? Front only or all 4 corners?
     
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  25. Mar 4, 2022 at 2:07 PM
    #25
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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  26. Mar 4, 2022 at 2:08 PM
    #26
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    Pics of front and rear

    IMG_8251.jpg
    IMG_8250.jpg
    IMG_8240.jpg
    IMG_8247.jpg
     
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  27. Mar 4, 2022 at 4:48 PM
    #27
    Wahayes

    Wahayes Older I get the wiser I realize my dad was

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    Yea i upgraded i forget the brand though time will tell

    20220304_123611.jpg
     
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  28. Mar 6, 2022 at 8:02 AM
    #28
    GarTX526

    GarTX526 New Member

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    Glad I found this thread. I’m due for replacement and was looking at Power Stop.
    Gonna keep it OEM.
     
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  29. Mar 7, 2022 at 11:39 AM
    #29
    bsktball55

    bsktball55 [OP] New Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
    Rotated my tires this weekend and took a look at the brakes. The pads definitely look like they need replacement, but what do you think about the rotors? These are the original rotors with 90,000 miles on them. Not warped at all. Go ahead and replace them when I do the brakes, will they last a little longer and save the money?
     
  30. Mar 7, 2022 at 11:47 AM
    #30
    reywcms

    reywcms New Member

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    I'd replace them.
     
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