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parking break cable replacement

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by carguy84, Jun 29, 2022.

  1. Jun 29, 2022 at 8:06 PM
    #1
    carguy84

    carguy84 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    Vehicle:
    2006 tundra SR5
    Can anyone tell me a step by step procedure for changing the parking brake cable from the pedal to the rear end please 2006 tundra 4x4 SR5
     
  2. Jun 29, 2022 at 8:08 PM
    #2
    alb1k

    alb1k Always Coming From Take Me Down

    Joined:
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    Left Coast
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    05 2WD DC w/ attitude
    It's good
    Someone just replaced maybe all of that. Search 1st gen forum. It shouldn't be buried too far back.
     
  3. Jun 30, 2022 at 5:54 AM
    #3
    shifty`

    shifty` I’ll teabag a piranha tank

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    '06 AC Limited V8/4WD
    (see signature for truck info)
    alb1k[QUOTED] and bamdone like this.
  4. Jun 30, 2022 at 6:43 AM
    #4
    bamdone

    bamdone New Member

    Joined:
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    Member:
    #79771
    Messages:
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    Dayton, OH
    Vehicle:
    06 Salsa Red Pearl SR5 DC 4x4
    New Parking Brake Cable, Relocated Differential Breather
    My suggestion is to do the rear cable first then, when you have some time, do the front one. Go to the dealer and give them your vin and order the cables and the bolts, spacers, and odd shoulder bolts. The cables in the systems at Napa, Orileys, Autozone, and Advanced Auto are the wrong length. Trust me, I tried four cables before one of the was correct, and it was the one at the dealer. Save the time and get the dealer cables. Bolts are just nice when you shear one off and have to use heat or drills to replace.

    The rear is literally a single clip in the middle of the cab, an attachment bolt near the rear drivers tire. And two bolts on the rear diff housing. The clips and pins are easy to remove on the drums. Rear should take you about 40min-90mim depending upon rust level.
    The front cable is more involved. You need to remove the drivers side sill plate, (4 Philips heads) the interior lower door trim (one push screw stud cap thing) and remove the lower dash panel (4 10mm screws). Then spend about and hour fiddling with the pedal to pull the old cable out. Go under the cab and you’ll see four or five nuts holding on brackets that hold the front cable to the bottom of the cab. Three of them are behind the heat shield above the catalytic converter on the drivers side. One is way up on along the exhaust pipes on the fire wall. And one is located back where you detached the front part of the rear parking cable.

    Fish the front cable out through the cab. Then, take the new cable and fish it through the firewall and bolt up the cable to the pedal. Attach all the brackets for the front cable and attach the front to the rear cable. Once that’s done, re-attach the three trim pieces.
    Adjusting the parking brake can be done at the turn buckle in the middle of the body or by the pedal. I suggest the buckle and using blue loctite. But, however you do it, make sure the brake is off and the truck can roll in neutral and can’t when the parking brake is applied.

    The two cables only actuate the rear drums. One cable runs from the parking brake foot pedal to the middle of the cab. It threads into the rear cable which runs all the way to the differential then to the wheels. The parking brake actuates some adjustable levers that actuate the shoes in the drum brakes. I refer to the cables as front and rear but, in actually they only control the rear brakes.

    If you have questions or want me to do a walk around and post a video for you, I'm happy to do that. Just let me know. It's not terrible; only bad if you have lots of rust. If so, get your Tetanus shot before you do this job, Haha.
     

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