Advice on front suspension OEM rebuild

Greetings Everyone!

Looking for some advice on a front suspension rebuild on my 2003 Tundra SR5 4.7L 2WD. 215,000 trouble free miles on the clock.

Truck is deliberately bone stock and I use nothing but OEM parts.

Front ball joint boots are bad and other than recall ball joints installed at 80K, entire front end is original to the truck.

They can no longer align the front end due to the extreme wear, so I’m looking at some major work to get it fixed.

If the work is terribly costly, I may just sell it or trade it on a new vehicle.

I’m technically adept but don’t know a lot about suspension rebuilds. With 215K on the original parts what do I need to replace? The front suspension has *literally* never been touched in 20 years. Steering rack is weeping from both sides but no leaks or drips from the rack. Can you guys give me recommendations on all the necessary parts? What do I need to get the front end back in order?
Thanks!
Tom

 

no way to answer that without an inspection of the suspension for worn items. Need to check for play and such, see what may be bad. Check all bushings, UCA, ball joints, tie rods, wheel bearings, etc.

 

I purchase all new parts for the front suspension and timing belt change over a period of time. OME springs, 5100 bilstein shocks, freedom bar upper control arm and new stock lower control arm, OEM steering rack and polyurethane bushings, hellwig sway bar, suspension maxx sway bar links. Can replace truck's upper and lower control arm bushings with OEMs if you have the tools or press. Need one of those to remove and install the upper ball joint. Definitely get OEM lower ball joints and OEM upper ball joint if keeping stock upper control arm + get OEM tie rod ends. Bottom line is to replace all ball joints on the end of a part down there.
Clean off and leave your steering rack alone if not leaking. If your looking at the long run of getting everything done and over with for another 20 or so years, any manufacturer's aftermarket steering rack rebuilds are short lived and a waste of money, so consider getting the more expensive new OEM rack. In the long run it's the way to go. Who knows when Toyota will quit selling them along with other OEM parts already made obsolete.

You'll acquire a lot of stuff in boxes that you could see as having spent a small fortune on front end replacement parts. If so, give yourself a time frame allowing you to get parts, tools and learning time before turning a wrench. For northerners Fall is a good time to work on anything outside. Just take your time to write down what you'll need parts and tool wise if not a mechanic already with all the fun stuff. Add in YouTube time while doing that to help learn about getting it done right, and things needed never would have thought of. You'll see what I mean. My mistake was getting out of control during the allotted time frame to collect parts and save necessary you-tube video's before wrenching it all together. Figured if under there get it all done in one shot and do the back also, like Eaton's TrueTrac for the rear diff, make front locking hubs manual, etc. Ha, got bit by the parts acquisition bug and a room looks like an overloaded warehouse.

Probably missed stuff, but after you jump on the learning thing at you tube and look/record part numbers from schematics that Toyota parts dealerships provide online, + by learning from others here, you'll get it. Pardon me if you already know this stuff. Lol, because I sound like a long winded Mother Hen, I'll end this with a "here's an example if not already familiar."
Good luck with the project as it's a lot of work for the hobbyist mech.

 

Gas cap, thanks for the great reply. I really appreciate the info.
I don’t plan on doing the work myself bc I have no garage and very limited tools.
Was hoping to order all the OEM parts online and have my local trusted mechanic do the work. Just worried that I’m in for $4K+ repair before it’s all said and done. No idea what a full rebuild w OEM parts might cost. Trying to get my head around that. If it’s too much, I might let the truck go and buy a new Frontier.
I’m going to take it to the garage for a full estimate. Was hoping for some info from forum members before the trip.
Thanks again for the thoughtful reply!

 

If you're supplying all OEM parts I'd expect maybe half that 4k in labor. Depending on if you are sourcing complete arms or just bushings & balljoints (ie: the amount of work involved).

 

OK, I understand what's going on now, forget all about what I said. The front rebuild cost just went down like a brick in deep water. Unless, that is, the mech's labor cost is unreasonable for work done. Forget about getting new springs and steering rack.

Your job is simple. First record your VIN # for getting the right OEM parts, Toyota parts guys like people that have that when asking questions or when ordering online.
After inspection with estimate of labor cost and all parts needed, find all OEM part numbers you need for left and right side, mark down their cost and your the man. Remember all parts are installed in pairs, one for left side and one for right side (like tires or brakes)...never only one for one side that's bad and only one is needed for the other side and so forth. Before scheduling or when the truck is dropped off at the shop, show the mechanic your parts list of ordered parts with his stapled behind it to make sure he wrote down and you ordered all parts needed.

You will get new OEM lower ball joints even if said to be good. Polyurethane replacement bushings for steering rack and stock sway bar only if worn (expensive replacement job). But if labor to replace one or both is cheap then add those to the parts list.
Shocks =
https://cart.bilsteinus.com/details...Dr=3895825044603362078&En=7567141723174652443

Tell us what it will cost after you get the estimate.

 

Well, I received the estimate from Toyota.
In short, $4,500 to fix the front end.
The rack is shot, all ball joints bad, control arms frozen. Struts leaking, etc.,
Rear shocks also shot.
Shame of it is, truck still runs and drives as new.
So now the decision to sell the truck or fix it. I primarily use the truck as a tow vehicle for several out of state camping trips and a few coast to coast camping trips every year. The trailer weighs around 4,400 pounds. Some of the locations are *extremely* remote…other trips I have my young niece and sister with me. The truck has been faultless to date…but for how much longer and at what risk? If money were removed from the equation I would clearly get a new Frontier ~$33K. However I’m super frugal…so sink $4,500 into a 20 year old truck w 215K on the odometer…and hope nothing else major breaks in the next several years…or trade it in on a new Frontier? Opinions?

Side note - the new Tundra is out bc of price, availability, and the deal-breaking turbo engine.

Tacoma is out bc of its anemic V6 motor, endlessly shifting transmission, and terrible driving position. Rented them twice to tow 2,500 lb trailers from AZ to CA and unfortunately hated the truck.

 

Could you find an independent shop to install OEM parts? Might be better on the wallet. I'm not sure how much of that price has to do with the rack but if its leaking so little that you're never adding or just hardly adding fluid then maybe you could do everything but the rack.

 

Used steering racks are plentiful and cheap, pick one up from your local recycler.

$200 seems to be the going rate for a grade A part in my area. $75-100 for further out, should cost less than $50 to ship.

That being said, I'd get a second opinion on the rack, they rarely wear out that soon. Inner and outer tie rods are pretty common, but the whole rack, and at 215k, it's possible, but I doubt it.

 

Tough call. If you have the extra cash for a new truck that's with reputation being just as reliable, get the color you like and enjoy another 20 reliable yrs in something new. Nothing wrong with Nissans.

What's the average 1st gen Tundras sale price in your area? You have frame rust or none? Condition/appearance of truck, foresee any more major payouts for a mechanic to do repairs down the road? Lot of miles on a trans used for towing on long hauls. Ever been unsuspectingly stranded in Timbuktu, Lol, with complaining females! That there is a rememberable all around uncomfortable costly situation. If you want to use it like an ole farm truck, get estimates from other shops that do front ends.

Good rule of thumb is families females always go in something that gets them there and back w/o problem, unless one is doing the best they can and have no choice.

 

$4500 from the dealer is actually a lot more reasonable than I expected.

If you got aftermarket parts *except the ball joints* you're under $1000 for control arms, shocks/spring, labor would likely be about the same.

I'd probably skip the rack, they can seep for a long time before failure just keep the fluid level correct. Maybe put some ATP Reseal in there.

 

Fully agree with all this. ATP

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 would likely work for small leaks. Cheap enough to find out.

It's worth noting, when going to a dealership, you can always expect to multiply what the average shop would charge (using OEM parts) by 1.5x or 2x. There are (at least) two reasons for this. One, they'll only use OEM parts at full MSRP, maybe more, so you're getting killed there, and many concatenate the hourly rate, even if the jobs have overlap that would cancel hours out.

We have a couple of shops in my area that are staffed with former Toyota/Lexus mechanics who supposedly got tired of the dealership "quantity over quality" BS that's backbreaking. ToyoTechs and LexTechs are two of those. Their rates, even using OEM parts, often come in at least 30% lower than the dealership for the exact same work. You may want to look in your area for similar establishments.

As long as you keep your timing belt changed and do regular fluid changes, the engine in this truck will easily last you to 400k, 500k miles, and the tranny is likely to last just as long. There are plenty of guys on here as proof. You may get 100K-150K out of a new Frontier, and with how poor the quality of vehicles has been as manufacturers have scrambled to cobble together parts with whatever they can find due to supply chain issues, you're walking into a minefield.

Getting it done at the dealership should add some warranty to the work and take guesswork out of whether it's being done right. But I really think you can find a qualified shop to do that work in the $2800-3200 range, even using OEM parts - though going 3rd party on the rack, if done now, could make sense. Just make sure it's all OEM on the ball joints as was mentioned.

Could also be a good time to go for a suspension upgrade.

You said it yourself. The truck still runs and drives like new. You think a Frontier will be like that after 200k+ miles? I'm asking, seriously?

Fight the urge to go new. It's slowly leaking out how bad vehicles made during the "supply chain issues" are. Don't trade a diamond for a lemon.

 

Source your own OEM parts and have a trusted mechanic do the work. Even if it’s $3k it’s worth it. I’ve driven the newer frontiers, and they are not the same calibre truck as your FGT. My concern is the part where you’ve neglected the front end of your truck for 20 years, have other normal maintenance items also been neglected? How long your truck lasts is up to you. If my FGT met all my towing needs, I wouldn’t have needed another truck. That being said, the 2000 will be staying with me regardless. They don’t make another truck like them.

 

https://www.1aauto.com/2000-02-toyota-tundra-front-10-piece-steering-and-suspension-kit-trq-psa59060/i/1asfk02912/1043222/2002

Just pay close attention the the bj's. Unsatisfactory bj's are a recipe for disaster.

 

Are you saying the 1A LBJs are unsatisfactory? I never understood why people espouse OEM LBJs when the OEM ones are documented to fail so often.

 

Non-OEM ball joints are a total crap shoot. The currently available OEM's are the most reliable option available, so says the hundreds of contributing forum members. Numerous instances of non-OEM joints failing early and often. My originals went 150k+ miles before I replaced them. If your going non-OEM, make sure they are greased and inspect them often, and may god be with you.

 

I'm not going to disagree with you, OEM is often better quality, but I've seen more tales of OEM failures than non-OEM, albeit there are probably way more OEM trucks out there. Meanwhile, non-OEM are subject to lawsuits as well, so they'll be engineered with similar safety factors. Material quality, fit, and finish is where I always see the difference between OEM and non-OEM, and while some range up, many range down. The failure point - the ball and socket - is tucked away behind a boot on both, so not easy to compare the critical failure point. Lack of grease causing sudden failure seems to be the common thread, so it would be a good idea to swap any of them if the boot ever tears or leaks no matter the origin.

At the end of the day, Toyota compromised the design, so it needs to be checked regularly.

 

would like to know how this played out [2 yrs ago- might of lost him to a NissanFrontier?]. ?

Im planning more or less same suspension rebuild for 06 AC V8. There was a lot of wisdom offered by the forum members [especially on keeping FGT] and i hope the OP stayed away fr/a 'new' truck.
Given cost and quality of new trucks, I won't think twice about putting $$$'s into these trucks; but what i hope to do is break it into 2 separate jobs so i dont feel one BIG pinch in the wallet and yes, i'll be happy w/all OEM since my use will be 98% pavement [If its not a graded dirt road, i dont need to go there].
Im having LBJs done soon and maybe other items are 'easily' accessible while spindle is torn down, but not sure what.
173k original and steers and stops great so far and I have an independant mechanic.
Any recommendations?
Are steering rack rods & boots a no brainer while in for LBJs?

 

Brake soft lines front and rear, outer tie rods if necessary, new sway bar bushings. Lower control arms if the bushings are shot. It's really not that hard to pull the spindle on these. It really depends on how worn things are. It's worth looking into the "soft" lines for fuel, cooling, and power steering as well since these trucks are 20+ years old.

 

Outer rods, Sway bushings yes.
Sway links probly.
Gonna wait on brake lines; just as easy during brake pads/resurface, no?...
Power steering soft line, maybe: OEM only?

SteerRack boots worth doing if not replacing Inner Rods?

 

Are the bellows leaking? Yes.

but i ran duct tape bellows for several months while waiting for suspension parts. They were split, but not much of a leak. Didnt want the shaft to dry out or rust.

 

Would think boots, for cost, a no brainer but I havent chkd cost yet [may get pricier when adding OEM clamps] ?
Im thinking the main job of boots is to keep road debris from entering end seals; seems like that is no 1 enemy of seals. Also to maintain surface quality of rods being blasted by debris- [cant prove it, just feels true]