Blown Head Gasket at 186,000 - Your thoughts on the coming decisions

Hello Folks,
So as mentioned in the title. I have a blown head gasket on my 2008 V8 5.7L Tundra - I assume it's minor. My symptoms are only loss of coolant as the reservoir is empty every week and I have to fill it. The car runs fine no misfire no overheating. no mix of oil with coolant and no white smoke. no sweet smell from the exhaust. However, I have confirmed the head gasket by conducting the combustion leak test. the test fluid color changed from blue to green when the test is done on the radiator. and went so quickly from blue to yellow when the test is done on the reservoir. Also, my compression values indicate that there is a problem:
Cylinder1: 175 PSI
Cylinder2: 170 PSI
Cylinde3: 140 PSI
Cylinde4: 175 PSI
Cylinder5: 146 PSI
Cylinde6: 150 PSI
Cylinder7: 160 PSI
Cylinder8: 160 PSI

I'm requesting your thoughts on what to decide, The options I have now are:
1- Fix the head gasket, with all the risk that maybe the problem is bigger than a head gasket and I won't know until I tear down the engine. I can get this done for Under 1K USD as I'm not in the US so garage and machine shop costs will be very minimal compared to the US and I can buy all the original parts myself Gaskets, Head Bolts, Chain KIT. This also indicates that I can't guarantee the quality of the job.

2- Replace the engine / I don't want to do. I won't trust putting an engine in my car other than the original one which I know his records.

3- Use the cheap fix like the blue devil. could work because I assume I have a minor leak.

So what do you recommend guys

 

Ive never done a Tundra, but I can tell you that growing up with LS1s and Ford Modulars on boost or spray, dont go for the cheap quick fix. Just dont.

Order new head gaskets for both heads and all other stuff that is coming off. (manifold, water pump, etc)

Pull the Driver side head (where your leak is). Having it off will give you an idea of other things at that point as well, including if you may need to pull the passenger side head. You can check valve seats, the timing chains, everything. If anything looks suspect on the passenger side, just go ahead and do it for both.

Best case, you only need to replace driver side head gasket and whatever else had to come off to get to it.
Worst case, you have to do both sides and can also take care of chains or bearings, new water pump if at all necessary, whatever.

Either way, it is a win/win. You get to keep your engine that you know the service history of, and youll be confident one way or another that it’s been put back together with as little or as much as it needs.

Edited: had heads mixed up

 

Do these crack heads at all? I have seen that issue on numerous vehicles over the years and that becomes a real PITA.

 

Your truck supercharged? Or did it get hot/overheat at some point?

Just curious, not saying you don’t have a bad HG, just that they don't typically just give out on these things. Shit happens though.

Like it was stated above, id replace the HG(probably both if one is shot)and eyeball everything along the way(water pump, chains, guides etc).

Time consuming but worst part is managing space. Relatively simple deal, even if you do both sides.

 

I’d do a leak down test if possible to try to narrow down the cause of lower compression with #6 cyl as Chris pointed out, before tear-down. And even scope the cylinders if that’s an option.

Then, strip it down and see what you’re looking at from there.

 

I'd just replace both head gaskets most of the time if a head cracks oil will mix or burn. If it hasn't overheated to point where a head could warp then I wouldn't worry about machine work theres a little bit of tolerance given on unevenness for heads and deck height. And while in there do a carbon cleaning and replace chain tensioner's/guides for timing chain.

 

Not Supercharged, I got this car used from a friend and I put around 60,000 miles on it with no record of overheating. Sadly it was my mistake not to keep an eye on the coolant level but the car was driving very good. I think I'm going to do the head gasket job preparing myself it will be for both sides. replacing the water pump and full chain assembly. The only constraint I have is to find a good garage here in Dubai where I live to do the job as per the standards. prices here for such job are very cheap to a point that I can't trust them. I have some skills to even do the job myself however I lack the space and tools to do so in the meantime. so maybe I will try to spend the full time with the garage watching what they are doing as I have no trust.

 

Do yourself another favor and try to get info or service manual pdf so you have torque specs for every single bolt that gets touched, right back all the way down to the valve cover bolts.

If you’re overseeing it all, and assuming nothing mechanical needs attention, then this I would say is the most crucial attention to detail stuff in making sure you’re set for a good long while.

 

Thank you Roctane84. I'm planning to buy the service manual or at least find a pdf somewhere. but getting back to your initial suggestion if that will be the case. if I replaced only the driver's side and had the head resurfaced. Do I need to worry about the different compression ratios I may have on this side compared to the passenger side? even if done both and had to resurface the heads. am I overthinking the impact on my engine after resurfacing the heads

 

You may not have to mill the heads, but if you are, I would definitely do both sides.

 

I would also do both sides. You’re most of the way there when doing one, might as well avoid going into the other side in the near future.

 

This.

 

I had the same thing happen to me at 190k. I thought I could just replace head gasket, but neither Toyota or an independent shop thought that would work. Toyota wanted to replace engine @$37k. Lol. Looked for junkyard motors or rebuilt but couldn’t find any. Ended up Have a independent shop rebuild engine with all Toyota parts. Took the opportunity to replace things like starter etc while engine was out of truck. Like you I do get some comfort knowing history of motor. Total cost was $13k here in Houston. Took about a month to get parts and do the work. Work was done last October, and I have since put on 20k trouble free miles. I like my truck and it was trouble free outside this issue. If you do go head gasket route I look forward to hearing your results. Good luck! Side note I was able to limp home from Louisiana. Stopping along the way to disconnect battery did stop misfire. So technically the truck didn’t leave me stranded. I like the truck and in hind sight it worked out. I did have a post about my experience with pictures for reference. I believe there is a member in Dubai with a supercharged tundra, maybe he could recommend a shop.

 

Confirmed: I will do both heads. Hopefully My heads won't need an resurfacing. or maybe at least small work using sand paper. I will make sure to measure the flatness myself and inspect both heads and even the block.

Your topic was brilliant man, sadly you didn't post anything related to milling the heads if you needed. I'm happy also to get confirmation from you that you put 20,000 Miles after the repair. The thing is my car do nothing, no overheat no misfire nothing expect that coolant loss in the reservoir. those engines seem to be very strong to a point that even with a head gasket problem you still feel nothing. and to be honest I don't think that those engines blow head gaskets. and in my case it's my own mistake and responsibility to not check the coolant. maybe i had a small leak in the water pump or the expansion tank and bypass pipe under the intake. I will make sure to check those also because really I don't know what have created the blown head gasket.

 

The shop did send heads to be milled, and one valve was replaced if I remember right. No overheating for me either. Never got hot once. I did notice the reservoir low about 6 months prior and topped off coolant, but I did not do a good job keeping an eye on it. So I believe it ran for quite awhile before it finally manifested as a misfire.

 

Update:
So I found one garage and one of the mechanics there is a certified Master Mechanic from Toyota and he is aware of the engine. I discussed all my concerns with him about the job, Quality of the Job and even the warranty. So I got those labor cost from them because we agreed that I will provide the required spare parts:
- 7 Month Warranty
- 400 USD For the garage
- 300 USD up to 500 USD for the milling and resurfacing based on the conditions. this cost will include if required to do a hydrotest for the heads so they are recommending to do the valve job and Inserting New Valve Seals since everything will be covered within the total 1,200 USD. I'm expecting if the heads are OK I will pay small amount for just cleaning and sand paper them if necessary.
They Recommended the following parts to buy
- 2 Head Gaskets (Already Purchased)
- 20 Head Bolts
- Water Pump
- Valve Seals
- Complete Chain Kit
- Intake and Exhaust Manifolds Gaskets.
- Valve Cover Gaskets and Also Spark Plug Seals (Already done in my car 1K Miles ago so no need).
- Also during the way if anything required they will replace.
What do you think specially doing the valve seals job ? My engine is fine No Smoke and No Oil Consumption. So my initial though is Don't Do this , However since they are opening and Covered by the price then why not

 

Wow those rates are great. My thoughts are do what the tech suggests. Do it right the first time and have peace of mind. Good luck!

 

Stopping in to see how you were making out? Hope all is well.