Can’t get new timing belt on

Hi folks! New member here and starting off with a question.
Got a 2005 Tundra dc 4x4 4.7 I bought brand new. 290,000 miles all by me. I bought a Aisin timing belt water pump kit and everything was going smooth until time to install the new timing belt. I have spent the last 3 hrs trying and it will not go on! I’ve installed several Subaru timing belts but this is my first attempt on my Tundra. Is there a trick to getting it on? Even installing it only on the left cam (drivers) it’s still off a tooth at the crank gear. It matches up with the old Toyota oem but has more teeth. I’m at a loss and this is my work truck. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

If it does not have the same number of teeth as the belt that came off it sounds like you have the wrong belt. It should have the same number of teeth as the original.

And, welcome to the forum!!

 

Where did you get the timing belt kit? The belt says Mitsuboshi on it?

If you turn the driver's cam one tooth clockwise and the passenger's cam half a tooth clockwise, that might help. That's what I needed to do.

 

Says Mitsuboshi CD298 on the belt.

 

I followed AllDatas instructions and got it to TDC + 50° before removing the old belt. Got the new water pump, idler pulley and tensioner pulley on but this belt is getting the best of me. Mine is the VVT version and I don’t have the cam gear tool. Only a 19mm wrench and if I turn it one hair too far clockwise (Looking at it from the front) she springs over. Then of course the 19mm bolt breaks loose trying to go back. I’m gonna wear the factory marks off the belt from handling it if this keeps up.

 

You didn't release the tensioner pulley pin before you installed the belt, did you? IIRC, you install the tensioner, the belt, then release the pin it to put tension on it after.

I can see how having the pulley tensioned already would cause this issue.

 

PS, I've posted this before and feel like it's the best explanation I've personally seen to do the TB on the 4.7 2UZ-FE, pay attention to the reinstall part. Skip to around 6m20s:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPpzLJwoxng

 

Trying to get the pin back into the tensioner is harder than trying to get toothpaste back in the tube (don't ask how I know this...).

 

Use a vice. That and rotate the holes to align before squeezing it back in.

 

I did try the vise, but even more toothpaste came out!

 

I figured it out. Never seen a timing belt that hard to get on. Before removing the belt I went to the T behind the cam gears, which isn’t 50° atdc. What was throwing me was the timing marks on the crank and lh cam gear were dead center and the rh was “off” just a hair. I was trying to get it dead center. Thought about it overnight and realized the belt markings were aligned with the green indents so there was nothing left to do but hold the lh gear and pull the pin. Spun it twice and all is well. I was overthinking it. That was the problem.
I didn’t even have the tensioner on when installing the belt.
And I’ve used a big C clamp to compress those tensioners before when I didn’t have a vice. Not on a 4.7 Toyota but other vehicles. Not easy but doable.

 

Glad to hear you worked it out, I was preoccupied the latter half of yesterday so I missed this.

I do highly recommend watching that video though, just for next time. It might help you see some things you could've done differently, learn for next time. The video was produced in a way I felt I could easily understand and kinda get to know the little tips and quirks involved. Every engine has them.

 

I tried to insert a couple pics.
The rh cam gear needed to go 1mm over to be dead center of the T. The lh was dead center as was the crank mark. Now the cam markings on the belt were lined up with the factory gear marks. When I tried to spin that 1 gear 1mm the belt would jump a tooth. Now when at tdc the mark on the rh gear is still in the “I”, just not dead center.
By the way, you can turn those cam gears with large oil filter pliers when you don’t have the sst.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z46cM-Bw1rI&t=267sYes.....use the "T" mark for changing timing belt.....that way the camshafts will not unload and shift on you when removing the old belt.....that Mitsuboshi CD298 is the correct belt....line up the left cam mark then right cam mark on the timing belt with the camshaft timing marks that are pointing to the "T" mark....then draw belt down and around the idler pulley to the crankshaft timing gear and align the marks on the belt with the marks on the timing gear.......the timing mark, threaded hole, and the keyway....the belt will have marks for all three.....at least the Mitsuboshi belts do.....

Make sure idler pulley is retighten to spec. if you loosen to get belt on....

When everything is lined up....pull pin on tensioner.....to snug the belt tight

Here is the best video hands down by a Toyota mechanic on a 4.7L......he uses the "T" mark and loosen the idler pulley for a little slack to get the belt on.

Watch entire video but especially the 4:20 to 5:20 sec mark....you will see his tip....

 

I finally left the idler pulley loose and tightened it after. Otherwise that belt wasn’t going on.
Also the old belt had roughly 190,000 on it (yea I know). It really looked good with hardly any stretching. Idler and tensioner pulley felt great. The rubber cap on the tensioner was cracked. I think it could have kept going but will never know. I was working at a Chevy/Subaru dealer at the time so I let the Toyota dealership do it with factory parts.

 

Canatct,

Did you watch the video ? Hope you found it useful......Good video, huh,...use the info next time.....I have done timing belts and camshaft seals on my 4.7L VVT-i engine.....I am very familiar with the timing marks and where to set them for a timing belt change

A Toyota mechanic once said that these belts would most likely do 200k.....they have kevlar threads built into them......not that I would let it go that long.....but I can believe your belt lasted 190k....

 

I watched that one and several others before tackling the job. It’s zipped up but still parked awaiting a new radiator scheduled for delivery Wednesday. I started to put the old cracked one fora fire up but I’ll just wait and do it once.
Thanks for everybody’s help.

 

The belt should slide right on. And you do use the “T” while swapping belts. Like mentioned Cams are in a neutral position.

Since these are interference engines you may want to slightly spin the crank pulley to make sure there is no interfering.

 

Canatct,

I am confused....did you do the work or the dealer..?

Your posts above are confusing....

 

I used the T. Alldata says go 50° past tdc which is past the T… but I used the T. I did this one.
I was working at a Chevy/Subaru dealer when the first belt was changed by the Toyota dealer. This belt I replaced at home. That sounds confusing as I read it myself. Sorry.

 

As you do these in the future, they get easier and easier....just use the "T" mark when changing belts.....can't go wrong......that way the camshafts will stay where they are and not unload and shift on you....

After you get the belt on and pull pin on tensioner and get the crankcase timing cover back on .......rotate crank 2 full revolutions to see if everything lines up.....camshaft timing marks with either the "I" or "T" marks as well the "0" mark or white dot on crankcase timing cover......if everything lines up.....you are go to go.....button every thing back up......and pat yourself on the back for a job well done...

 

I was told to use the straight vertical lines instead of the T while doing the timing belt.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/crackhead-resurrection.94083/page-21#post-2419739

 

I believe that the VVTI and non-VVTI have a slightly different procedure. I used those marks as well on my non-VVTI motor, however.

 

OH! Silly me. Didn't realize this was a VVTI...

My reading comprehension has failed me @TurdF

 

Use the old serpentine belt to hold the fan pulley when installing those 4 hard to get on nuts.

 

This is kinda weird, I saw this video use the T marks on an 08 GX470 and it sprung back on him, he recommended setting it to the I, everything was fine until the cam got bumped and it sprung which is fun! Now I get to worry about it more