Mevotech ball joints pressed in or bolt

Question

2001 tundra. I purchased mevotech supreme control arms. (Stamped SPC) along with the upper ball joints.

I don’t think these ball joints get pressed in for upper control arms or knuckle

I have attached 3 pics

I’m just making sure it’s bolt on. I don’t think it can be any other way. But I’d like to be sure

 

My condolences. If they last beyond 2 years, I’ll be surprised.

Good luck though.

 

Mevotech uppers, not lowers. Their lowers suck, yes. Uppers are SPC. Mevotech is selling SPC uppers as their own. Even the bushings look identical. This is pretty well-known, SPC makes parts for other big brands too...

@Tundra2 I remember you made a mistake on how you assembled yours recently, and I think that's what @Mhagha is dealing with now. Trying not to make the same mistake with regards to the insert, c-clip, etc. Are you able to chime in for advice here?

Edit: To me it looks like he has the insert upside-down in the knuckle. I don't remember seeing any press-in requirement for these.

 

And just to put my money where my mouth is ...

SPC arms are sold under at least two other brands.

Eibach resells them as their own: https://eibach.com/us/1861/5.25485K-TOYOTA-Tundra-pro-alignment
Mevotech resells as their own: https://www.mevotech.com/part//CMS861201

If you don't want to pay SPC's new $895+ pricing, you can get the Eibach-sold kits for $600 and I think the Mevotech for around $300. I can't tell if the Mevotech hardware is exactly the same, but the arm itself and its bushings are 100% identical, balljoint looks identical, supporting hardware looks the same, except the insert Eibach and Mevotech use looks shinier in their pics.

My guess is SPC is trying to get out of the direct-to-consumer business, and jacking up their prices to help that happen sooner than later. You'd be nuts to pay the new pricing!

 

Is it because Mevotech made UCAs in the past and they were so horrible, they had to buy SPC’s bc of their crappy product?

 

Possibly, but I can't find any evidence they ever made their own 1st Gen uppers, only lowers.
I've heard Mevotech's 1st Gen lowers are absolute garbage, particularly the bushings disintegrate in short order.
I've never heard this claim for their 1st gen uppers, only "Their uppers are resold SPC's".

 

On website. It does state bolt on for assembly

Anyone know??

 

The ball joints don't get pressed in, but the bushing gets pressed into the knuckle and you need a press to get the old ball joint out.

@shifty` that's the correct orientation for the newer arms. They did change the design of the bushing and the install direction from the earlier design.

 

Ok. I found a video figured I would post it. Because the directions are wrong.

I put the steering knuckle insert In from the bottom of steering knuckle…..as anyone can see in pic.. That is what the directions said

I found this video. Josh did on YouTube. And it gets pressed in from the top, snap ring goes on under it. So I’m going to take it off. And do it again.

Check it out let me know.

Play video at 29 minutes

https://youtu.be/S2unFVNRry8

 

The way you did it is correct, that video is for the older style bushing.

 

You have the insert installed correctly in your first picture. I made a boo boo by using the wrong instal sheet I found online.

If you want to read about my boo boos you can click this link, and then read the saga until the upper ball joint slug adapter story

 

@Mhagha you're going to stretch the steering knuckle out if you really crank on it....

You're about to fuck up because I almost fucked up too.... there's pictures of the knuckle insert on that link I posted.

 

This is exactly why I wanted to tag you guys in

I remembered there was something squirrely, and the online directions I found (like Noah did) also showed it backwards of what I saw in the pics.

Thanks for the confirmation, guys!

 

Ok Fester W and Tundra2. I have it correct as you see in pictures. I do want to be cLear that it went in with few taps from bottom and…………I DID NOT press it in. Just making sure I’m on the same page with you guys. And ok the video is for different one. Thanks greatly. Really

Shifty. What can I say dude. Thanks a million


My LCA is killing me, I had to remove bolts from steering rack to get the LCA out. Can you believe that my wratchet is stuck under the rack middle bolt on top. Absolutely no room.
If anyone does LCA. Donot loosen bolt with ratchet too much. Just a little then take it out, use wrench or it will be stuck.

 

I think @Jack McCarthy has actually been through that recently. I swore you replaced your LCA or LCA bushings b/c they were blown out, right?

 

I also tapped the knuckle inserts in with a hammer. Normal, and ok.

Are you in a rusty area? I had to cut my lower control arms out with a Sawzall. I used Diablo thick metal blades. The steering rack is kinda a bitch to deal with. Do you have new lower arms you're putting on? What brand?

Mevotech arm bushings aren't worth half a fuck.

Do you have new cam sleeves you're putting in? Cam plates too? Reusing hardware?

 

Also, use @shifty`s rock auto discount code... https://www.tundras.com/threads/roc...e-expires-august-24-2022.107731/#post-2949310

 

Being able to tap it in is fine. That's why they switched the design with the cuts in the side so it expands a little more in the knuckle when they're tightened down. The old style wouldn't work in knuckles that folks had installed some aftermarket ball joints.

 

Thanks guys

Upper and lower control arms are mevotech supreme CMS861201. With upper ball joints.
Lower ball joint are OEM.

IM ABOUt TO ORDER new tie rod ends. And all new cam bolts/sleeves. All new for bottom.
Top bolts are fine

I did screw up cause I didn’t mark LCA camber!!!

I’m in New York-Long Island. As of now. I can’t even get lower control arm out because of driver side bolt and now sleeve is a problem. Steering rack is in the way. I tried removing boot but I Still can’t. The sleeve is long.

I am stuck!! when I get home I willl try and tighten bolt to get my wratchet out from middle bolt in crappy little spot on steering rack. Then when I loosen rack I will be able to get bolt out. Then we’ll see if LCA IS stuck.

Man every bolt was a fight. Strut is still stuck cause LCA bolt stuck in it. But that’s all getting replaced.

I will keep u posted.

 

They started to tear on me after year two. It's only recently 7-8 years later that I replaced because the alignment was so poor, it wore out the inside edge of my new tires down to exposing the belts because the alignment couldn't be correct without replacing them.

 

I would try to find out if those 'supreme' LCAs are really made by another company like SPC because the Mevotechs I had from RockAuto were complete trash.

 

Control arms are stamped. SPC.

 

Even the LCAs? I thought you didn't even order yet?

These are the ones I had...never again.
https://www.mevotech.com/part/CMS86130/

 

For the Mevotech lower arms, it's just the Mevotech lower bushings that are shit, right?

I've seen his upper arms, the metal part is definitely SPC. Dunno about the bushings, but they look like SPC bushings too.

If his lower arms aren't stamped SPC, then I'm assuming he got the same lowers you got, which had all the problems.

 

They look exactly the same as mine and yes it’s the bushings. A 5 year warranty is nice unless you find you need it done again in a couple of years.

Let OP decide whatever he wishes. It’s his truck, good decision or bad.

 

The correct way to tell if the sleeve that goes into the knuckle is correct:
The larger side of the tapered bore goes towards the ball joint and the smaller goes towards the nut side.

It doesn't matter which version you have going by this.



Only a couple whacks with a hammer is necessary to seat the adapter. The snap ring is to keep it from backing out.

The design has a cut or split on the knuckle adapter, so when you tighten it, the taper forces it out for an even stronger fit.

 

Thanks Assassin. I will look into this more.

Jack…
I basically purchased everything already. It was very expensive….

I’m doing
struts,Upper and lower control arms, front axles,stabilizer links, upper and lower ball joints (lower OEM)
So I had to cut back some. And the crazy thing is I spent a lot more for certain tools I didn’t have.

I also just purchased 2 new Tie rod ends OEM. AND OEM LCA bolts,etc. That ended up costing me an extra $300. Purchase today. Everything bolt i touch or loosen. Turns into problem. I thought I would be at 1500 or so. And I’m no where near that!!!

I only use this truck to drive 10 or so min to work. That’s it. No off road/ nothing so we will see how everything lasts.
Also, I should of been more clear. They UCA HAVE SPC stamp. The LCA Do not. CMS 86130 and 131(pic attached)
I’m thankful for you guys on here really. I appreciate all the info.

Shifty helped me a lot and pretty much told me what I should get. Wish I could buy every single thing!! Unfortunately some things I had to cut back on. But shifty thanks man!

I finally got my ratchet out and socket. Unbelievable. I can’t begin to explain this unless you actually go thru it. Had to buy a 19m ratchet wrench. That helped a lot after bolt is loose some( middle bolt on top of steering rack)

*****Now after doing all this. Steering rack don’t move enough. I will have to completely remove it and I donot want to touch all these lines attached to it. Maybe if I remove the other ——-rusted to crap——- part from steering shaft. I think it’s called intermediate rod? I need steering rack to move out like 6”.
Any ideas?????? Or proper way to do this? Just so I can get LCA bolt sleeve out.

 

The steering rack will move back 6”. You just need to undo all the bolts (remember the hidden one on top) and the bracket and keep track where everything went and it’s orientation. Best to have someone to help support the rack while it’s almost completely out and another person puts in the new CAM sleeves/bolts in the rear. That will help avoid putting stress on the hydraulic lines.

The intermediate shaft attached to the coupler on top of the rack doesn’t need to be touched.

 

Thanks Jack,

I found this video. Incase it helps anyone else. And this is exactly what I was missing. And what you’re saying. ( I know it’s a Sequoia)
Thank you!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0h2g2MvJOk

 

Also, if the video doesn’t show it, keep the LCA bolts loose for maximum flexibility when putting back in the lower shock bolt because it can be a PIA sometimes with aftermarket arms. I needed help from another to pry the shock from underneath while I put in the bolt on one side. Loosening the shock tower bolts on top may help as well.