1st Gen. Lunch Table - General Discussion

So what’s the fix for doors not closing smoothly? Lube?

 

Define "not smoothly"

 

Medium push and the door sits just shy of the latch, connected but not closed, cargo light on.

 

Think I know just what you're talking about. When that happened to me, lubing the latch with white lithium and trimming that plastic layer on the latch only got me so far. I ultimately took apart the door and replaced the latch assembly, now it works great.

 

I was about to suggest lube, but @des2mtn beat me to it. Anyways, obligatory meme...

 

Oh, and about doors, I've always had to be more forceful with my doors than other vehicle, but I think the corolla with its pushed back firewall and therefore pushed back pass door has my memory tainted.

 

@des2mtn got part numbers? I know, I should do my own work for that

yellowbox install time, 30 minutes? Or could I just coil it up and leave it zip tied? Maybe 3D print a waterproof box for it?

 

I fought that door for so long before buying a new latch. No part numbers on hand for AC/RC unfortunately.

So Sequoia front doors will fit DC front doors, but for some reason Tundras and Sequoias don't share the same part number for that latch. I bought and installed the Sequoia PN since it was cheaper and haven't had a single issue. Just had to swap over the lock motor

 

I seem to remember ol crackie needed some extra oomph to close the doors.

 

I got my tundra because of a broken door latch. In the middle of the scamdemic the shop couldnt get a latch for 6 months, and grandpa had had enough, so he went and bought a tacoma. I took the shop a sequoia latch i found in a JY, but it didnt fit. Took em 2 more months before i could pick it up.

 

Amazing.... and that was sealed up inside the wall like that w/ no access?

Did I miss you droppin pics somewhere of this thing? Get your sliders on today?

I still don't understand why there's a junction box in your plumbing but okay. If I'm understanding correctly, the 2 side ports are still capped. So before you knocked the cap out, that line wasn't draining at all correct? Has it ever been in service? Sounds like you gotta cut the slab anyways, and get rid of that box? twilight zone shit that it be

Mine's the same. I think it feels more like good weatherstripping than a bad latch

 

Everybody is going about this all wrong. Don't try and pull the cap out, keep pushing it till it's the cities problem.

Also, I've never seen 4" plumbing in a house. Seems a bit big for resi work.

 

I was planning on using this 4 day weekend to tear apart my interior and deep clean it, but mother nature has other plans.



That's fine with me; I never get to go play in the snow. Time to test out the hard work we did.

 

Not even a little jelly.

 

Uhhh, I dunno man, kinda glad I did electrical instead of plumbing.

 

At least the left you a cup holder

 

I'm in Galveston for the next couple days. Rained most of yesterday and 45, today is 50 and more of the same. Supposed to clear up later but it's still nicer than 28 and snow in Erie.

 

I got this years temporary greenhouse fenced. Might get my cover figured out today.


these bastards arent tearing my tarp this year.

 

Yes, we're all stumped about why the box is there. You understood correctly, it's a 4-way 4" junction box between the bathroom fixtures and main sewer line, left & right sides are still capped off, and a 3rd side was capped to boot, though some water was slowly trickling through somewhere, slower than mollases.

This bathroom's drain line was never in service, we bought the house 20yrs ago with the basement pre-stubbed to add 2 BR/1 BA, but never needed it. Now we're doing it to finish out a rec room for the kids, and get the house ready for sale 10-12 years out. This particular bath's drain line is isolated from the rest of the house, it doesn't hit the main house drain used by the floors above until about 12" below the foundation.

Slab cut is about the only way we can really solve this problem, to remove the 4-way box, with the plug in it, and replace with a new section of 4" drain.

4" is standard here, residential, for a main line, and any toilet. 6" for commercial, IIRC. You sometimes see 3" for shower drains, but 2" is most common.

City cleanout up by the meter is about 60ft away. Trying to push a curve-heavy 4" junction box cap 60ft through a 4" shit-slathered PVC drain line sounds a lot worse to me than jackhammering 8-10" foundation.

 

Enemy in sight... (initially posted this in the wrong thread)

 

Way back when...like early 90's our bathtubs would backfill when it would flood, so we had to screw a plug into the drain. I dont remember it ever reaching the tub vent. But then they dug hundreds, maybe thousands of acres of retention ponds.

at the end of my street they dug 3 giant ones, depending on time of day, whether i was on my dirtbike, or jeep. Even raced my buddies in a late 80's crown vic for fastest lap around the bottom left loop. i could carry some good speed on damp morning grass, like a sprint car.

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2003-corolla-virus.89458/page-9#post-2989259

 

@shifty` What is the city responsible for with regard to getting rid of invasive roots? Is it right to your foundation or the edge of the property?

 

They have basically no responsibility past the meter on one side, and to the sewer cleanout, which is a few feet from it. Basically, to the curb.

For the record, this is what happened. It turns out I was wrong, it's not a 4-way box as I thought based on what we saw on camera. It's a 3" backwater valve (one way valve to prevent backflow), and the assholes who plumbed the house 20 years ago installed it backwards, so water would only go inbound, not outbound. And there's basically no way in hell we would've ever gotten the flap out of there, and the O-ring that came out was from the lid, because the lid wasn't screwed on right.

They put an arrow on the body of the valve so you know which direction water flow should go. It was clearly in backwards. Bastards.

 

Does that mean it’s already been dug up?
Stupid plumbers

 

Ol Ernest

 

I emailed Serra Toyota to ask about a Black Friday sale. This is their response.

"Yes 15% additional off our normal prices plus free shipping with coupon code FREESHIP . Starts Nov 24 thru Nov 28"

It was a bit of a disaster last time for them but if you aren't in a hurry to get parts it's probably worth a shot.

 

Did you email McGeorge too? I need a parking brake cable so I may bite.

 

Actually just thought to email them too. Will keep you posted.