Front CV axles for 2.5" lift

Greetings,

I'm sure it's been asked in the past and I'm not coming up with anything solid but my OEM front CV's boots are torn and I've added a 2.5" lift. Who makes front CV axles that would fit properly with a 2.5" lift? I installed a rough country lift with new front struts and rear blocks. Thanks!

 

Oddly enough, I’m in the exact same boat. Local shop talked me into the RC 2.5 lift for my 2001 AC (still undecided how I feel about that), and I immediately ran into CV joint issues. Checked underneath, and the inner driver’s side boot is ripped. Not sure if the lift caused this, or merely exacerbated an existing issue. Put in a diff drop kit, which helped some, but still looking at replacing the axles. From reading here, it looks like CVJ 9550 TR is the route I’m going to go. Definitely interested in any other opinions out there.

 

You don’t need new axels you just need a new CV boot (high angle).

I run Kartek 930s. No issues.

You doing yourself? Trick is good snap ring pliars and have it facing down in a bucket so once you get it opened the CV will drop from gravity.

Good luck!

 

I'm thinking the lift caused them to tear. Mine were fine until the lift. I noticed it yesterday as I was doing other maintenance (replaced idler wheel, belt, etc.). Thanks for posting the CVJ 9550 TR's. I didn't know about them and will go this route also. Good luck!

 

I went with the Trakmotive (may be different brand now with same PN) TO8088ET off rockauto. Same as NAPA HD axles. Mine seem fine so far. They have a extended travel inner boot. @bmf4069 is also running them and has had issues with getting them to seal properly so take that as you want.

Cheaper than CVJ and less hassle with no core charges or anything. I put these on after my front level and diff drop as both my inner axle boots were already ruined anyway.

 

I have an OME lift that raised things about 3 inches.

The oem driver cv axle failed almost immediately. I wondered if it was damaged during the install.

Literally, just yesterday I replaced the original cv axle on the passenger side. It went almost 196k miles; the vast majority of those miles were with the lift kit.

Remembering what a world class baja motorcyle racer once told me..."If you want to rock, keep it stock"...I replaced the passenger cv axle with another oem axle.

If you replace it yourself and if you watch the YouTube videos, one of them says the axle nut is 35mm (if I heard correctly). It is actually a 12 point 39 mm nut.

 

My driver’s side became problematic immediately following the lift - clunking when turning under power which can be both heard and felt. Still on the original axles with about 194,000 miles on them, which is why I wonder if there wasn’t already a problem brewing that just got accelerated once the angles increased. At this point, I figure complete new axles are good maintenance, given the boot issues.

 

Isn't the axle nut 36mm for a 1st gen? And 6-sided?

 

I'm gonna have my friend check mine when they get it on the lift. It's just seeping for now. Also, the axle nut that comes with these is bigger than the 35mm so we ended up reusing the stock one.

35mm 6 point.

 

I see two options for extended axles for first gen 2000 tundras. My driver one is for sure shot.
2.5 lift

 

Extended axles? For a Suspension lift that keeps the suspension travel to the same as it is from the factory, just sitting at a different static height. No.

When the pleats of the boots touch they wear. Whenever you do suspension work on a truck with 100k plus. You need you replace the CV boots and repack the grease.

Diff drops are only to help extend the life of the boots. If your CV’s are clicking, I would check the cheap a$$ lift for over extending the suspension.

 

I bought the mid-grade CVJ axles (the ones with the red inner and aftermarket outer) and 2 years later I’ve replaced both clamps, and now have tearing outer boots that I’m going to replace with OEM boots.

I hate to say it, but buy once, cry once, and be done with it.

 

So what is the buy once item ? It’s not OEM

 

Check with RCV...

 

Buy OEM reman CV once, re-visit in another 100k-200k miles if necessary. Don't buy aftermarket or parts store bullshit, which is designed for 1/3 - 1/2 the life, if you're lucky, and get stuck doing this again 12-24 months down the road. OEM part number for reman CV is 434300C01084 or sometimes stylized 43430-0C010-84.

And while you're in there, if lifted, consider buying a new set of high-angle boots like those ORS makes. ORS seems to be the brand everyone recommends for OEM-like longevity: https://www.offroadsolutions.com/products/high-angle-inner-cv-boot/
Yes, $81/ea for boots is spendy, but if they do the job and last a long time, it's better than spending twice to do the work twice. Time, efford, and pain == money.

 

Awesome didn’t know they remaned the axle. For the price it’s the easy pick.
The boots do cost but like you said if they last 5 years that’s not to bad at all.
I’m in.
Time to do brakes also so I guess it will be a busy week

 

Cheaper option for a higher angle inner CV boot, just need your own grease:

https://www.kartek.com/parts/empi-b...v-joint-and-covers-up-the-cv-joint-bolts.html

 

Take this with a grain of salt but I read on the Facebook page a lot of people have had issues with CVJ. Apparently the quality isn't what it used to be. No real surprise there.

I bought the most expensive CVJ axles 2.5 years ago and I haven't had any issues yet but I only put 3-5k miles/year on my truck.

If these crap out I'll buy OEM.

This is the way...

 

Offroad solutions installed ~4 years ago. Still going strong.

 

That looks nice. The red adds horse power

 

Well if you're looking for something to do you may want to do OEM lower ball joints and new bolts while you're in there (if you haven't already). You'll have to take out the lower ball joint bolts anyway to do the axles. Also may be good time for you to do the ECGS bushing upgrade to keep your front diff needle bearing from going out.

 

I just got lower ball joints. I will have to look into the bushing upgrade. I am getting brakes together now. Seems right to do it all at once.

 

Hopefully OEM lowers. People who choose non-OEM lowers usually end up like this guy. There are a couple dozen similar pics here on the forum of folks who didn't go OEM. 3rd party brands don't make them as robust as Toyota, and 1GT suspension design puts a lot of load/stress on the lower.

 

OEM from McGeorge Toyota.
My 94 pickup taught me. Buy OEM everything unless you want to do a job twice.

 

Hey Shifty,
I am about to install front CV Axles to connect my 4wd on my 2001 Tundra and wad wondering if anything has changed since a year ago when this thread was posted. I am not sure if I have OEM LBJ but there only a year old. I guess I will replace them anyways along with the OEM reman CV. The truck is lifted so I will buy those $85 Boots you suggested. I appreciate your time.
Drew

 

Not much has really changed, although I'm seeing a lot of people recommending using inner boots off one of the Porsche SUVs saying it's even better than what ORS is selling, and it's not red which is always nice.

I dunno if you want the extra work, but you may just want to roll with OEM re-man axles, see if they sling grease or not, and if not, just skip the reboot, it looks like it's a messy process.

 

Hey Man-I appreciate your time. Ill do just that than. Ill get OEM LBJ and OEM CV reman. Does anyone happen to know how common it is for the OEM axles to sling on lifted 2001 Tundra's? Does anyone happen to have the link to the outer boot used for this from Porshe SUV;s?
Thanks for your time
Drew

 

I’ve been running OEM boots on my truck for 90k, the pleats are almost, maybe mostly touching, and they are still looking good.

That being said, hose clamps might be a better option over the factory CV clamps, my knuckles are covered with leaking grease.

 

Thank you Man. I appreciate feed back. I'm gonna run OEM and see how it goes.

 

I had a set of CVJ axels installed this year. I went with the re-man axels with the red silicone inner boot and I opted for the aftermarket outer boot. My passenger side started slinging grease a few months ago so I contact CVJ and they said they would send a new aftermarket boot at no cost but recommend replacing it with an OEM boot kit. I opted for the CVJ aftermarket outer boot at no material cost to replace it over the OEM boot. I dropped it by the shop today to replace it. after the mechanic took a look, both outer boots are now leaking. I am now thinking it is best to bite the bullet and order the OEM replacement kits and see if I can resolve the issue. I wish I would have bought the OEM outers with the CVJ axel in the first place but it seemed like a big add at the time, now I am paying it. Shame on CVJ for even selling such a shitty outer boot knowing that it fails so often.