Is a lifting a good or bad idea? pros and cons?

My tundra is all stock, i have been toying with the idea of getting a suspension lift by paying a local shop that does this kind of work all the time.

I am wondering what the cons are, i would like to run 33 inch tires the stocks are 31" i believe and i really don't want anything cut. Maybe a 2 inch lift nothing to drastic.

How does lifting change the handling of the truck? Will the drive line wear out quicker if it's more at a tilt and is getting a alignment more of a issue?

What happens when you have a load in the bed when it's lifted or toe a trailer?

If you get a suspension lift does that level the truck as well?

Another concern is if it will fit in my garage once lifted so if i got a 2 inch lift with 33 inch tires would the top of the cab be 4 inches taller?

Thanks for all the info!

 

You can just put 275/70/18 on stock. Thats a 33


Many guys run lifted 2 inches with very little extra wear. the ride suffers as soon as you lift it.

 

I’ve owned many lifted vehicles. Anywhere from 2-6” with tires from 33-38”. For a driver, 2” leveling kit up front with a 33” is perfect. No real extra wear to speak of, doesn’t change the handling characteristics, doesn’t change the ride, still easy to get in and out of, haven’t had an issue going in to parking garages, levels the truck out and makes for a nice look, still tows well, easy to install.

I got out of my big lift and big tire phase a long time ago after dealing with the bs of a bunch of aftermarket parts and having to rig stuff up when//if something went wrong with a non factory part. These days I prefer a lower lift with a bigger tire. I’d rather trim a little plastic and get a bigger tire than deal with a taller lift.

 

Stock tires are 32". For 33" you need no mods. The number is a diameter, so the total height increase going from 32 to 33 is 1/2".

Cheap suspension lift is almost assured to result in a firmer ride, which is usually unwelcome. I have a ~1.5" lift using Bilstein 5100 in the middle setting and aftermarket shackles in back, the truck is MUCH firmer. Right now it has got a front bumper w/ winch, steel skid plates, Leer cap and bed liner, that extra weight keeps the truck at about stock height, plus it loaded the suspension and the truck drives not as harsh as it used to be when the lift just went in.

I would also advise getting a P-rated tires, not LT, unless you're offroading. P is softer and lighter.

 

Lift it high and enjoy it, life is short!

 

What year is this Tundra? 31” would be gen 1 size stock, where 33” is a big upgrade vs. gen 3 has 32.5” from the factory wouldn’t likely notice a 33” as different.

 

My stock size is 275/65R18.

How does the ride suffer?

 

2019 TRD, i just looked it's 275/65R18

 

Well now, this is just my opinion, and you know what they says about opinions.....

I'm an old fogey now, and I'll say right up front that as far as I'm concerned folks can do to their own equipment whatever they choose, and I'm fine with it.

But even though I truly think one should do as he pleases (as long as it's not a safety issue) I really don't understand why anyone would want to waste money to lift his truck and cause a stiffer, uncomfortable ride on bigger, knobby tires that I can hear coming from 2 miles away if they don't intend to ever go rock crawling or mudding, or plowing through deep sand.

I could go on, but there's no point. Prolly no point in even expressing my opinion except to confirm my status as a bona fide "boomer." What the hell man, if you like the idea and have the wherewithal, then do it!

 

I'd say that answer to your question depends on your use. Our truck is our second vehicle, our use includes towing horses and a 16 foot trailer for hay etc. We are downgrading from a 4 horse goose neck towed by 3/4 ton to a 2 horse bumper pull (now ponies). The towing capacity of Tundra is plenty for our need, but payload of Tundras is low. We like the 1794, picked it, and knew that means lowest of low. So I won't be adding weight - lifting adds weight, bigger tires add weight. Also, I want to stick with stock suspension for towing, hoping weight distribution hitch is sufficient.

With all that said, I do like the looks of lifted trucks with aggressive tires - moderate, not extreme. I had put a leveling kit and slightly oversized rugged style all terrain tires on our 2004 4runner. That was awesome when we lived in Arizona. But times change, needs change.

We used the 4runner offroad so the tires looked like they were used for purpose - I do chuckle when see lifts with big tires that have never been of pavement.

 

The ride is highly dependent on what lift you choose. If you want a small level with oem ride I'd go with rough country 2in lift struts. I had them before my dobinsons kit and there literally was no change in ride quality. They also did not require ucas. If all I were doing was a level , I'd go that route again. For reference below in this order is 33s rough country 2 in level struts and 4500 lbs , same setup 1500 lbs trailer empty, and same setup no load. Only difference is I'm on 20s.

 

I don't go off road only doing it for looks.

My other truck was a 26 year old tacoma and i love how the tundra drives and feels compared to the old truck. I hate to mess with that but i do like lifted trucks.

 

Seriously, mine was lifted to provide a more safe environment from the idiots texting, drinking, etc. while they drive. As a bonus, it also provides a better view of most everything including the eye candy.

 

A 2” lift shouldn’t negatively affect anything assuming the shocks you use are decent quality. Bilstein 5100s aren’t a bad choice if you want lift. Granted mines a 1st gen, the 5100s with old man emu springs have been fantastic riding on my tundra

 

It should go without saying but DO NOT do a spacer lift. That will ride like shit and mess stuff up

 

A lift will negatively impact your fuel economy, if that matters to you. IMO it also makes the ride and handling worse and reduces your payload if you tow.

You do you.

 

I would go with a small lift like 2”. I really didn’t notice any difference in mine until I put 305/65 r18 tires on mine. They are wide 33” tires. Took a hit on gas mileage then. About 1 mile less mpg. And I have the 4.6l v8. Probably makes a difference. I do have thế tow gears though. Overall I think the lift is worth it.

 

Just go easy on the weights and make sure you stretch before and after every session.

 

Nice. Living up to your sig

 

I had zero experience with lifted trucks before levelling mine; and reading as much as I could and asking questions in this forum helped me a ton.

I added 2.25" lift in the front with Falcon shocks to bring the front of the truck up to about level with the rear, removing the 'rake'; and I added .75" in the rear with '+1' shackles from Coachbuilder to add some of the rake back in. I didn't scrimp on the quality of the parts or tires, and my ride is better now by a smidge than it was stock. You can also lift the rear a smidge with a RAS / active suspension spring if you'll be towing, which will add stability and comfort. I probably should have gone that way instead of the shackles, but here I am. I didn't add aftermarket UCA's, and it aligns just fine. I'm very happy with the way it is now.

Metric tire sizes and the sidewall ratings that typically go with them will help you keep some comfort. Going with a standard (e.g. 33" x 12") tire sizes usually comes along with a stiffer offroad sidewall, which will impact the ride quality quite a bit. Tire brands are discussed ad-nauseum in this forum, and DT and other tire sellers use ride quality and noise ratings, so that should be part of the picture for you. I'm in my mid 50's, so ride comfort and noise were important factors.

No matter what anyone here says about whether you can do the lift yourself or not; unless you're going to spend money on a high quality - high safety tool, please OH PLEASE get a shop to mount your shocks in their springs. Compressing a spring with some cheapo or home made tool is putting your life and limbs at risk, and adding inexperience bumps that risk up. Find a reasonably priced shop and let them use their much safer equipment.

Good luck with the endeavor, and come back with pics.

 

I used Rough Country's 3.5 inch Lift/Level kit but had them swap the 1 inch rear block for a 2 inch because I like just a little rack. I ran the stock 1794 Edition wheels and tires for awhile, then bought the Fuel D556 wheels in 20x9. I had the stock tires mounted and ran that through the tread life, then bought the Bridgestone Dueler AT Revo 3's in 275/60R20 (33 inch OA height) which is my current setup. First thing you'll have to do when you add wheels and tires is remove your front scuppers (they look like mini mud flaps hanging from your front bumper) as there will definitely be rubbing on these. With my 275/60R20's on 20 x9 D556 Fuels I get just an ever so slight rub when backing up with my steering wheel at about 2/3's to lock even with the scuppers removed.

 

doing a 6” lift requires some work and research. Tires:35”x12.5”x20” on rims: 20”x10”x-19. adjustable front and rear Vertex shocks, Coach builders steering, 1/2” bumper spacer, Jomax front sway bar end links, SDHQ BMC plate, Camburg rear shackles, Nitro 4.88 gearing. the ride is better than stock, mpg went down. only off road i do is mild off road, sand, dirt, camping and beach use ie; surfing.
bottom line is build it for what your gonna use it for…. me it’s my fun weekend use. i drive a Rav4 for work