What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

15Jan23

Small haul for the little tundra. Met up with a gentleman out in Mountain Home, Arkansas. Picked up a set of rock warrior wheels for our 200 series Land Cruiser.

 

I always enjoy this guys' videos. This recent youtube video he made got me thinking about sway bars again. I didnt realize our trucks dont even have rear sway bars!

Anyways his video was quite interesting about sway bars and articulation and had me thinking about getting a RSB and possibly ditching the FSB.

Anyone try this RSB on our trucks. Now that I think about it, any chance the front one can be moved to the rear position?



https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=23360

 

I believe @Voss was trying to get rid of a rear sway bar not long ago.

 

Rainy day burnouts. Wumbo's truck is super impressive in 2wd with the locker. The corners are too tight for either, fiddling buttons regardless...

 

I have a rear sway bar too. I think it was on the truck for a short bit. I need longer links for my current lift.

 

Yep. Not really needed.

I mean, you could be gentle for the first couple hundred miles. But where's the fun in that?


New ones can generate a lot of heat initially so there is a 10-15 mile, stop and let diff cool down deal. Then 4-500 mile gentle drive and then change oil procedure.


I never used those, just bought them from another member (used).

 

So they've been sold 3 times before being installed again. That's kinda funny. Well, they look brand newish for sure. I know about breaking in new gears, just didn't know if they needed to be re-meshed after being set up again. Since the install I've done 3- 30 minute drives. First one I babied it, second got up to 80, third hit 95, and its silent. Pretty confident I set em up right this time and they're good to go. I am still going to drain and fill after a few hundred miles just because.
I've got another question for ya; I always thought the speedo was based off the wheel speed sensor, so no surprise that big tires threw the speedo off from actual speed. I changed from 3.91 gears to 4.10's, and back to 3.91's, and didn't think it affected the speedo. I have a scanguage and input into the settings the +17% for my 35" tires and it was correct when checking with GPS speed, and I thought for both of those gear sizes. Now with the 4.88's its WAY off. So wheres the speedo getting it's data from if not wheel speed? If it's from the crank sensor then it would seem I'd also need to input all 4 tranny gear ratios as well, or no? And, is there another setting to input gears in the scanguage or calculate it in with the tire size? I must be missing or overlooking something. Anybody else?

 

Speed sensor is in the trans tailhousing.

 

Ahh okay. That makes sense because it's before the diff but after the tranny. And thats why rear gears and tire size both affect the offset. Thanx @Mr.bee, I was unaware of a sensor in there other than reverse.

 

I’m curious how a rear sway would affect articulation on our trucks. Likely slightly different from how a 4runner or go is affected due to the 4 link vs leaf spring though

 

Kinda funny you have the gears driving around after its 3rd sale but I still haven't put the LSD I bought with it in my truck yet. I built a spare diff but it's been sitting on the shelf for a year now lol.

Early trucks 99-03 or 04 use a speedo sensor off the trans. Later trucks use the wheel speed sensors. IIRC

 

First proper night drive with the 100w halogens due to stuff needing to get done late tonight…
Low beams

high beams
They’re fantastic to say the least

 

German Osram's

 

That light output looks great. I'm running 100 watt halogens with the aftermarket headlight harness and it's just mediocre. My lenses aren't perfectly clear and have a little haze but not terrible. Wonder if that's making more of a difference than I realize.

 

My hundys and upgraded harness in aftermarket housings work great. Lenses are pretty clear still though. One of my favorite upgrades.

 

Which aftermarket harness are you guys using for that, and I take it the harness uses a direct line to battery? I'm sure these details are somewhere on here already, I'm just being lazy. (nevermind, found it, hilarious it's in a thread where I was telling someone to use the damn search )

 

Oh, and as for what I did today...

Started my next application of Seafoam High Mileage in the crankcase. I'll run it for the next 500mi before OC @ 75k on the clock. Still cleaning out PO's varnishfest.

Meanwhile, I'm on my 3rd gas fill-up since new plugs. A tank later, I cleaned my MAF, which I'm sure took at least the remainder of that tank, and probably some of the next tank before the ECU finally finished its learning cycle. I'm confident this is the first full tank since re-learning finished. I also tend to get slightly better MPG when it's cold out, so maybe it's just that I'm seeing here. But it's still interesting, that within one full tank from cleaning the MAF, I saw a significant spike in MPG w/o any other service changes than those listed.

I'll add: At least 30-40 miles of this last tank was in 4HI, it's been raining excessively the last month-ish. No change in driving habits, except that I can't stay off the pedal because it's been so damn peppy after MAF cleaning. Clearly, new NGK iridiums did nothing significant, I'm thinking MAF cleaning had some impact:

(Arrows ballparked on timeline, based on when I actually hit the date; I barely drove at all the first 3wk of November)

​

 

keep an eye on your oil pressure if your running sea foam in your crank. that can get sketchy IMO.

 

Thanks for the advice. I always do. Never know when something could break off and clog your pickup tube or a port. I've read horror stories of it happening, but almost always it's when someone didn't bother to clean out under their valve covers beforehand to deal with any chunks ahead of time, where they tend to live

So far, it's been rock solid, I'm on treatment #3 at this point, I think. 1st was regular Seafoam. Last one was 'high mile', and this one 'high mile' version.

If there was clear evidence of chunks or major sludge, I would've opted for something more aggressive, like Liqui-moly, diesel, or kerosene. But it's 95% just varnish with the rest being finer than sand, and I scraped, cleaned, and vacuumed the shit out of my valve covers to avoid "chunk break-off" risks (pics of what I'm up against)

There were definitely chunks of crap inside my valve covers prior to kicking off my process. But long gone before I got too deep. No change in oil pressure through any of this process.

EDIT: Just to say ... I've been an avid Seafoam user for at least 20 years. In the tank, in the crankcase, for top-end cleaning, and in all my small engines. That and MMO. I've never had a problem with either of these causing engine damage or failure, only positive results. I've definitely read horror stories with similar products, when used incorrectly, or used in dire situations where nothing would've fixed the issue, but ... Seafoam and MMO are both just highly-refined petroleum, they're super-low on aggressiveness and super-slow on action unless you run at ultra-high concentrations (like, more product than there is base fluid). I'd be shocked to see any new, bad results.

 

I’m convinced that I’m slowly losing lift from my icons. I know I tightened the screw in the collar but she seems to be sagging more than ever. I might be making the switch to the blue boys sooner than I thought.

 

Can't bring myself to like this reply, that sucks. But the truck looks so damn nice, it's hard not to click.

 

Where are you at now?

 

It does look strangely low in the front from that angle. The top of the tire looks so close to the fender.

Side note, have you had a chance to test those tires yet? Curious how you like them. How did they do in snow?

 

I gotta find a flat spot to measure but I’m definitely lower than 22”. Thanks for finding that measurement!

 

The Falcons have been great, no complaints. Seen a lot of wet road conditions lately and they seem to handle everything great. No hydroplaning on our flooded highways and do well on the early morning black ice. We’ve been checking out potential properties with tons of snow and mud and they’ve left me very confident. Deep slushy snow has minimal traction but the same with most tires. I like them so far and are pretty quiet on the street.

 

Currently mines running one Dave threw together for me. But that was a one off. Headlight services is the one to get

 

She looks low. I dig the rake though.

The Falkens are some of the most impressive AT tires i've seen. very quiet, even when worn, and the wet and snow traction was amazing. My dad got a set of the AT3Ws waaay back when they first launched and were about 100/tire.

 

It's hard to find a bad review about them. People seem to love them. It's just weird to me because they don't look that aggressive for an AT. I may have to give them a shot when I replace my BFG's.

 

Yeah, they definitely look more aggressive in person. I'm eyeing them for my next set too. Just sucks that they're $280/tire now. then again, so are my Dick Cepek turned Mickey Thompsons.

 

It's interesting, I find myself walking around and hiking trails more often these days, and there are a lot of import trucks in my area, probably because of proximity to the AT, and the rivers and streams that come off it, + general loathe of what the big 3 have become.

The two tires that consistently make me double-take are the Wildpeak AT3 and the Nitto Ridge Grappler. Although there are two sidewall versions of the Nitto RG, and the one that's angular usually catches my attention more.