Tundra Transfer Case or ?

Disclaimer - I'm new to this and not a mechanic. My 2015 Tundra recently would not come out of 4Low until I turned key off and finally it went into 4High. Then it took awhile to get it into 2High. The light kept flashing for the 4High indicator. I took it to Toyota and they told me I need a new transfer case ($4,400). There are no leaks, no humming noises & they replaced my transfer case oil last summer (never mentioned finding metal in it). I'm not sure what to do now other than I know I won't purchase a new transfer case. I'm not a mechanic but it seems like transfer cases don't go out very often (in 2 yrs I've only used 4 wheel drive three times - don't know history of the truck). They told me this diagnosis was from a Code. Thanks.

 

Get a second opinion. And not from Toyota, but at an independent shop that works on Toyotas. I had rodent damage to a wire harness that was causing my "low fuel" light to stay on. Dealer wanted to replace the entire frame harness for $5400. Went to an independent shop that I use for my other Toyotas, $350 to repair the wire damage. Post up your location, I'm sure the folks on here can find you a trusted mechanic.

 

Good idea. I live in a small town so don't have any places that may specialize on Toyotas; but have a few shops I can check. Thank you.

 

I’d replace the oil again with the correct spec 75W. Engage and disengage 4Lo several times. Even if you have to power cycle the truck (turn it on and off).

I’m wondering if they put the wrong gear oil in your TC last year. Most of the time they use

$39 75W-90 GL-5 Limited Slip, Ultra Long Drain 500k Miles, Manual Transmission, Gear/Differential Lubricant (1 Gallon)

75W-90, and that is 3-4X as thick as the correct 75W at operating temp.

 

Your electrical motor in the transfer case that actuates it from 2WD to 4WD or front diff electrical motor hub lock mechanism is probably getting stuck. There are 2 electrical motors in the transfer case (one for the 4Hi and 4Lo) and another electrical motor in the front diff to lock the hub. You suppose to activate your 4WD Hi and Lo once a month to make sure the mechanism moves and gets lubricated.

 

I checked my records (invoice) and they don't state what oil they use for the transfer case. Thanks for the ideas.

 

I used Revnol 75W oil when I did my transfer case.

 

How much was the service? That might help…

I’d bet they used 75-90 and that is the source of your problem.

 

the complete transmission/transfer case/hub service was $350.

 

Since the correct fluid for the t-case costs $160, I’m guessing they didn’t use the good stuff.

 

Found a Toyota specialist shop in Phoenix area - will get a 2nd opinion. Would a Toyota Dealer really use the wrong stuff? If that could be it, I wonder why it eventually shifts - after turning the key off/on?

 

Are you sure it was in neutral when shifting from 4 lo? The 4wd system is supposed to be exercised for about 10 miles a month. Most don’t do it though. I really only use mine in winter. Maybe it just needs to be used some and then everything will loosen up.

 

Most dealerships use 75w90 even if it’s wrong. Also, if you’re not exercising that actuator at least monthly, it’s not going to work smoothly for you.

I’ve brought actuators back from the dead just with new (correct) gear oil and going into and out of 4Lo several times with the shift lever in neutral.

 

It was in neutral.

 

I have a 2015 that I bought used.
It's doubtful the only prior owner EVER used 4wd in 98,000 miles.
I tested 4H and 4L before I bought it. It worked.
After I brought it home, it got stuck in 4L.
Fortunately I have a Toyota master mechanic family relative...
We dropped the tcase and he took it to some mechanic friends and they opened it up.
Found a "non essential piece" that had come off and got in the way of the gear mechanism.
They cleaned it out, put it back together, and I put the genuine-expensive-weird-toyota-tcase-fluid-in-a-tin-can in it.
Haven't had a problem since.
Except I am hesitant to put it in 4L ever again. :/

EDIT: Link to tin can:

$94 Toyota Genuine Transfer Case Gear Oil LF 75W 1 Litre 08885-81080

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-Genuine-Transfer-Litre-08885-81080/dp/B086R57CRP

 

This is not helping to prevent your problem from happening again.

 

This is cheaper and works...
https://www.ravenolamerica.com/passenger-car-products/75w-gear-oil-ravenol-mtf-3/

You not shifting 4L once a month makes the problem worst.

 

I understand the 4L situation. The challenge is we have one vehicle, and live in the middle of nowhere. Getting stuck in 4L again would be a very serious problem.

Are you sure shifting into 4L monthly is required? The manual states:


It doesn't say anything about 4H or 4L. However it also doesn't say anything about the transfer case, and both will use the "front drive components".

 

I do put it into 4Hi and 4Lo at least once a month. The manual could have been worded better. The gears in the front diff turn in 2H, so you don't need to activate 4wd in order to lube them. It appears to me that the manual here is talking only about the transfer case, which seems to be what the manual means by "front drive components". The actuators need to be used, 4wd needs to be engaged, and the gear oil in the transfer case needs to be whipped up to lube everything up properly at least once a month.

The 4Lo in my LX wouldn't engage properly and would throw dash lights on every time until I swapped fluid and engaged it every day (after warming the vehicle up) for the better part of a week. Now it works perfectly and smoothly.

 

Going to both 4Hi and Lo helps with electric motor actuation preventing the electric motors getting stuck beside the benefit of system lubrication. Watch the link video for actual operation of the system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47m7QAPrpsI

 

Looks like 4wd activates the big ring gear and the entire passenger side CV axle. Very cool video. Loved seeing inside the transfer case.

 

Why is it so expensive?

 

$3,600 for a new transfer case!

 

Don’t know. But it’s about $90 for Toyota 75w and about $20 for ravenol. I’ve changed mine twice with ravenol and haven’t had any issues. Takes just under 2 qt.

$94 Toyota Genuine Transfer Case Gear Oil LF 75W 1 Litre 08885-81080

https://www.amazon.com/TOYOTA-Genuine-Transfer-Litre-08885-81080/dp/B086R57CRP

https://parts.toyota.com/p/TRANSFER-GEAR-OIL-LF/69285144/0888581080.html

 

I’ve called 5 local Toyota and Lexus dealerships and all use bulk 75w90 valvoline. Some haven’t even heard of Toyotas 75w fluid.

I only used 75w90 in my transfer case for the 4runner, GX460 and now tundra without any issues. I do put it in 4H/4L once a month so maybe that’s why I haven’t had any issues.

 

Where in the Phoenix area are you? I have a very qualified Toyota only independent shop on the east side that can likely get this resolved for you. PM me if you would like more info.

 

The Toyota 75W has a very unique additive pack. Lots of phosphorus.

 

I don't think "dealers" are a fair representation of Toyota. Instead they are a fair representation of the current state of society, which, IMHO, is in a pretty bad state.

That's why they charge you $90 for a cabin air filter installation.

Or recommend replacing your transfer case when it can be fixed for far less.

Or severely over tighten your lug nuts leading to warped rotors.

Or recommend "turning" your rotors.

Or countless other examples you'll find here in this forum which is has led "dealers" to be renamed to "stealers".

Anyhow, the reason I'm saying this is just because the dealer knows nothing about "genuine Toyota transfer case fluid" doesn't mean it's not the best thing to use.

From my perspective, I find it odd how people are willing to spend $50,000 or more on a truck, and then go cheap on fluids.

 

Please don't get wrapped around the wrong oil. 75w vs 75-90 vs every other gear oil imaginable will not create the issue you are having. Yes, for long term, use the proper spec oil but you're having an issue with solenoid(actuator) and the actuation of modes. Please just find a nice piece of straight QUIET road and shift between 4HI back to 2WD many, many times. Then start going from 4HI to 4LO to 4HI to 2WD again, many times. The only weak point in our transfer case is the actuation solenoid and this is only weak from lack of use as others have pointed out. No guarantee but, as shown and in many other forums here, this is almost always the problem. Then, of course, try to switch modes at least once a month. When it starts working normal you can change the oil if you feel the need. The dealership will absolutely use the cheapest bulk 75-90 it can find but this will absolutely not harm your transfer case. I, like everyone here chooses a higher quality oil like a Ravenol 75W but again it's a minor difference. Please, always understand, the dealer will always use the cheapest fluids they can find in a 55gal drum. Your dealership engine oil change will absolutely be 0w-20 but it will be some bulk, almost no additive, garbage.

AND NOW THAT I SAID THAT ALSO CHECK THIS OUT. Sorry, computer illiterate, just type into search bar. I live in Phoenix so water, ice, and slush don't effect us.
2007-2020 Transfer Case Actuator

 

its not the oil its the actuator ...

ran into the same issue with my taco , the dealer quoted 14 hours to replace the actuator..

I went to the next higher assembly and found a 100k mile transfer case in the junk yard for $250...

pretty easy swap...