What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

You trust that? Time will tell.

 

@RUSTYNUTS trusted em enough to put on his truck, and got to compare it to OEM, I'm just relaying the message.

 

There was someone on here with off-road LBJs. Can’t remember who made them but they were definitely beefy and expensive.

 

That’s how my bro in law wrangled with a tree. He was in reverse at the time, sliding forward, downhill, spinning tires backward. Sometimes nothing you can do to stop an impact.

Let us know if we can help. I have a few spare parts but sounds like you’re beyond that point.

You can probably make decent money parting it out though.

 

Once I get a body, I'm gonna strip mine of anything I can use on the new truck, and probably give you guys first dibs on anything that's left. Since VF tuner cracked the VVTi 2uz I'll probably even throw my Unichip on here and switch to VF. I don't remember for certain but I think that crossmember is welded to the frame, so I doubt its worthwhile to try fixing it.

 

Testing in progress sir.

 

I mean, it's usually not that hard to fab up crossmembers, depending on the function. Also not horrible replacing sections of crossmember, just sleeve or plate over the seam for strength. I'd double-check on that; and expect potentially weird shit with steering due to possibly unseen damage to rack and tie rods.

 

That sucks man! Must of hit something really hard, at an odd angle. That area the rack bolts to is super beefy!

 

I tried out my newest version of my truck bed camper with a 2 day winter camping trip. Some improvements are still necessary...

 

Ooh. I've got the same brand/model tire as my spare. I haven't looked, but I have a feeling that it's original. Might be due for a replacement.

Does anyone know what specific tire our trucks came with from the factory? Were the non-TRD and TRD tires the same?

 

Not sure if its original, but the date code on the tire would put it around the last week of Nov 2005 -first week of Dec 2005. Truck date is Dec 2005, so it possible. Don't have the original window sticker, so cant really verify.

 

^this^
You can drive straight into a curb and if your bumper clears, you'll likely bump up on top of it. you slide sideways into the same curb at half the speed, and your steering and suspension are fukt.
Yeah that is a bummer to hear @Ghostly. I liked what you were doin with that truck. Alot of performance mods IIRC

 

You've gotta check the tag on the drivers jamb. Some came with 265/70/17, some with 245/70/17, and some with 16" rims.

 

That is definitely the original spare tire.

 

I was going to say the same thing earlier, but realized he was talking about the tire brand/make, not the size.

 

I'm not sure that the door jamb is always correct. Didn't some dealers do upgrades? My door jamb lists dinky 245 tires but the original spare I removed was a 265.

 

Same.

 

Yeah, but luckily the motor is perfectly fine, which is where most of my money went. Got a few quotes, and an opinion from a buddy who's been in the industry for decades, common consensus is that it would likely cost almost as much to have my truck fixed with a few weeks turnaround as it would be to get a solid body with off of copart or another auction site. The crossmember alone from toyota was $1200. Thinking I might as well use the opportunity to get into a 2nd gen. Don't worry though, if I find the right price it'll come back faster(VVTi, cams, 5 spd, better tuning).

 

I installed a hidden winch mount from AMP'D with Badland Apex 12,000 lbs winch and a set of 4 Crawler Off-road recovery points. I think Stevie Wonder got ahold of my sawzall on some of the bumper cuts but overall I'm happy with the results.

 

TRD trucks should be 265/70r16 BFGoodrich rugged trail (or terrain or similar). Seems like non TRD are usually Bridgestone dueler H/T.

 

Damn, I am jealous of that setup.

 

Swanky!

 

Not much going on with the truck, parts not in yet, winter storm warning, all of the above.


Wife called me up this morning around 0800 while I was at work. She called me up to come and fuel up her truck, because she was at the gas station and couldn’t get the fuel door open.

The fuel door on the Land Cruiser is one of those cable release types, and it wasn’t going. Drove there, got it open and topped off and sent her on her way.

Turns out this $6 spring is the reason. 1 hour of my life I’ll never get back. Stopped by the Toyota parts counter, and turned out they had one on hand. Will get it squared away later on tonight.

 

Nice tires!

 

So I started ripping into my 01 about a month ago. I’ve got all of my suspension ready to be installed, but I now need to get the trd s/c up and running. Here is what I posted on the general supercharger thread. They directed me here.
“So I haven’t read through all of the pages of this thread, but I haven’t really seen any 2uz supercharger setups being discussed. I have a little dilemma right now with my 01, as far as the wiring harness goes for the trd supercharger. Truck has 75k on it, and the previous owner put the unichip piggyback modules on it. The main truck ecu ended up being fried, and I have the trd ecu that came with the dealer-installed supercharger kit. I just installed a brand new main ecu, and I want to install the original trd piggyback. I’m assuming the stock s/c ecu was removed because the previous owner took it out when he added headers and methanol. I ripped out the methanol system, etc.. Can anyone tell me or point me to where these cut wires need to connect at? I’m assuming the black/white goes to black/white, along with the black/red to black/red. The red wires I’m not sure of, and especially the little red wire that’s by itself. I don’t have any of the original trd manuals that came with the kit, annd I’ve done a bunch of digging into this. Any feedback is greatly appreciated! Thanks guys.”

I have the original trd harness that came with the s/c kit. The harness is complete, but I can’t figure out two red wires that have been cut. I also don’t know if this piggyback setup is fried or not. I’m assuming that the previous owner took the original harness out and installed the unichip when he added headers and methanol injection. Any advice or anything to look for is appreciated!




Edit: accidentally posted two photos

 

So I've had this OEM gas door for over a year now.

Someone is supposed to paint it one day but he's had my girlfriend's dad's first gen for over a year now as well. Someone on the site (don't recall who) recommended just swapping the hinge assembly from the new to the old and I just hadn't thought much of it but decided to mess with it today. Pulled the old one apart first.

Came off pretty easy actually. Just bent the tabs back.

Took the new one apart and found quite a few spots missing paint so I sprayed it real quick just to prevent rust. Waiting for the paint to dry then planning to put it on one day soon.

Just have to find out some way to keep it shut as the lock arm is broken. I know I can buy new but really hate to have another key to mess with plus they are a little pricey. Might either run a magnet in there or try the @Tundra2 crackhead truck method by gluing an old key to the nub of the lock mech. Whatever it takes.

 

Go fancy.

 

On the fuel door front, while I replaced mine (and transferred my lock cylinder) I actually just attempted to order a non locking one. We will see if it fits OK before I send it for paint. It wasn’t spendy at all.

since we can’t pump our own gas in this state, it’s a fairly annoying inconvenience to have a locking fuel door on one truck. Not super worried about someone stealing my gas and I don’t think the lock cylinder would really stop them anyway.

 

Got some pics or links? Is your fuel door messed up?

 

That was me, very glad it worked well!

I think the magnet is the best idea. I got my lock cylinder working on mine, but I honestly don't feel the need for it to lock. I like the idea of a simple magnet.

I'm also not sure what the previous situation was, but if the gas cap has been left uncovered for a long time, I'd replace the gas cap. I had a P0441 and P0446 (I think?) a while back, and I chased all sorts of vacuum lines, just for it to be the gas cap. The O ring had deteriorated from being exposed for so long. It was like $14 for an OEM one if I remember correctly. Might be good to do after 22 years anyway.