Let's see your first gen - photo thread

Reminds me of the wheels @BluegrapeVr6 has on his truck: https://www.tundras.com/threads/if-you-could-do-it-over-2-2-5-lift.112577/page-2#post-2915213

 

I have the same truck and am in the process of body and repainting it. Idk something about the chrome speaks to me haha idk if I'm going to paint mine. I'm definitely blacking the badges though

 

Hey ya’ll, after traveling the US last year I’m in Maine for the winter and looking to catch up on some work.
This photo was taken back in Aug on the coast of Delaware. Looking to head back across this states this year and up into Canada and Alaska for the summer and fall.

 

Awesome! What sort of work are you looking to do? I assume timing belt and water pump've been done in the last 10yr/100k miles?

If you're new to 1st gens, check this thread.

 

Hey thanks for asking. yeah I’m fully caught up on all the standard maintenance items. Mine is a 2002 V6

The transmission is beginning to show signs with 2nd gear hanging when cold, and there’s a drivetrain buzz that I need to have professionally looked at, I’m ready to replace the transmission if needed. So I’ll start with ARX.

For sure have the leaky rear cabin situation but the camper overhead prevents most of that issue.

starter is probably failing, after warmup the truck starts weird. Like it takes a bit longer and has a soft start.

Oh is there a more durable front axle boot? Mine keep splitting at the transmission(three times now) and are throwing grease everywhere inside the engine.

 

For boots, either OEM or OffRoadSolutions (ORS) high-angle boots. Aftermarket tend to split quick. Same w/bushings. And non-OEM LBJs tend to snap.

On leaking, this thread may help.

For the starting issue, throw up a new thread in the main 1st gen forum. Give some more details, 'slow start when warm' is a pretty unique symptom set. Starters don't tend to go bad in these trucks. Rebuild is simple enough, just means you need to replace manifold gaskets which are spendy, and aftermarket usually don't last long. I'm sure some folks will have ideas. Be sure to mention what 'soft start' sounds like and battery details.

 

Thank you so much for your time responding. Those boots are exactly what I was imagining.

Can you confirm for me, the V6 3.4L 4X4 does indeed use an A340F transmission? Is there a recommended outlet for these? I’m open to getting one that is more “built” if it exists. Otherwise I’ve searched for rebuild threads and am not entirely clear if this forum has full coverage for that job. Pulling and swapping the trans on my own sounds simple enough but I would need to study/understand full instructions before spending money on parts..

 

You can still get reman transmissions at a discount from Toyota @ https://Parts.Toyota.com if you have the part number, discount varies based on which dealership you pick up from. You can plug in your VIN at the site, then click on the right category, look at the exploded to get whatever should be in your vehicle. There's more info on using the parts system over here if you need it.

I can talk about the engines, not the trannies. Most vehicles I've owned had a plate on them with the trans model number, or some identifying mark. But we do have at least one or two members who'll know the answers without thinking, though.

 

I do believe you have the same a340f as all 85-04 4Runners and 95-15 tacomas. Those forums will have tons of info! Have you done a drain and fill? How’s the fluid look and smell?

 

Finally finished the body work and got it sprayed. Very happy with the color and stance now. Working on the shell now. Going to rattle can color match it. Bondo and sanding now

 

great tip, and thanks for confirming!
The dipstick looks red/getting old and smells like dirty candy. I’m due for service on it based on mileage. planning to prioritize a professional inspection this week.

 

The tranny fluid is supposed to be red. If it were any other color I'd be worried.

 

Looks killer, but what is this spot in the body line? Weird shadow?

 

Nope shotty bodywork by yours truly

 

Red is good like @RUSTYNUTS mentioned. Brighter red the better and shouldn’t smell burnt. A simple drain and fill should improve the shifting. I personally wouldn’t drop the pan and replace the filter until trying the drain/fill and if the shifting didn’t improve. Wish you were on the best coast, I’d have you swing by the shop. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

FWIW, on the drain and fill; when I bought my truck, it was hard shifting into second gear, on the test drive. The PO told me it ha been doing that for 6-7 years and he just got used to it. (when it's about to shift, if you let off the gas so theres no torque into the tranny, it won't shift hard). I bought it anyways and got used to driving it like that. Then my radiator failed internally, which led to me doing a drain and fill, as the tranny was contaminated with coolant. Pink milkshake-bad. After I got the new radiator in, flush and filled the cooling system, drain and filled the tranny, my truck was shifting flawlessly. 6-7 years of hard shifting, and all it needed was some fluid.

 

Fuck yeah personalized.

 

Mine is the exact same way. I've done 2 drain and fills that made no difference. Hoping to do one or two more soon to see if it makes it better.

 

Hard shifting into 2nd? dammit. There are a couple details I left out but i don't think they helped. I actually thought I fried the tranny at first. When the rad fails, it's not something you can notice immediately. How i found out, was the tranny started slipping, and within a mile it was as if it were in neutral. 1 block from home. Tow strapped it there and found the pink milkshake. Bought the rad and all the fluids and just crossed my fingers on the tranny. When it came back better than before I was shocked, but stoked.

 

Yeah hard shift. Kinda rolls into it. Done it since I bought it. I forget the details but if I shift down to 2 from a stand-still when it shifts to 2nd it shifts perfect then just move it to D.
No pink milkshake though. Changed my rad before it had a chance to.

Here's the details actually

 

Little trip to Tahoe

 

New old truck! Been reading forums for a while now but decided to make a post about my new rig. 03 access cab 4x4 with only 108,000 miles and no rust on the frame! Timing belt is getting done tomorrow and oil change in the next week. I'm excited to be a part of the community!

 

Just joined and thanks for the add! Here's my '06 DC SR5 4.7L. Bought used in '10 with 62K miles. Now has 249K miles and runs like a champ. (Pic is that one time we got snow in Houston, lol) Top image: The day I bought it

 

Some interesting sun damage to this one from sitting outdoors forever. Not faded under the mirrors. Almost looks like someone tried some paint correction but it’s a really even, natural-looking screwup if so.

 

Too bad @shifty` isn't for hire; take a peek thru his thread where he brought his painy back to life.

 

I dunno, pretty sure that color is a metallic so it'd be two-stage, if it's clearcoat full-on fail, it's a different fix, buuuuuuut ... it's easy and cheap to check which it is.

That said, the pattern is weird, as if that's actually from something caustic or calcified raining down on the vehicle. Like, maybe it spent a lot of time under a concrete structure, or at a paper mill or similar industrial place that put chemical + steam in the air as precipitate that came down on the truck regularly.

But anyway ... @JasonC. could figure out what my method would do (see my signature, J) simply: Drop $10 on a good, mildly-aggressive buffing compound - I like No.7 Heavy Duty Rubbing compound myself, not to be confused with the white polishing compound.

Take the passenger door. Clean the worst area between the door handle and mirror. Dab your finger into the No.7 compound to get a bead about 1/4 pea size, you don't need more. Use your fingertip to work it in quarter-sized circles starting with light pressure to spread it around and increasing to medium pressure for 30-second count.

Wipe away the excess. If that spot is shiny after, this likely isn't clearcoat fail requiring a repaint, it's actually hard water stain. In which case, my method using a random-orbit polisher with an orange correcting foam and Meguiar's Ultimate Polish will get the entire truck shining again. It'll take a few hours, panel by panel, but it's do-able.

Or if you wanted to take it to a specialist, which will charge anywhere from $500 - $1,500, you can show them what the compound did so they know what they're up against. Chances are you'll be north of $1k for a qualified, reputable shop.

 

@JasonC. I just realized that post in my signature didn't link to the process I used. I've posted that info in a couple places. I updated that post I linked to include more info about how to get it done. Happy to answer any questions if you need it, inbox me.

 

My Thunder Grey truck has almost the exact same area with paint that looks similar the area around the mirror area is the same as well . Everything but the passenger side doors and bedside have been repainted at some point so if I don't like the way it looks I can just walk around to the other side.

 

Just joined a couple weeks ago, here's my '05 RCLB V8 4WD.