Lift Advice - 2004 DC 2wd

So I've had this truck about 2 years, longer than I normally keep a vehicle, and I haven't really done much besides normal preventive maintenance (radiator, lbj's, timing belt, etc..) But I think I've decided to just keep it till the wheels fall off, so I want to have a little fun with it.

All I really want to do is raise it and level it is as little as I need to, to fit 285/70/17s on these wheels, without rubbing. I don't mind doing a little trimming and banging if i need to to keep it from rubbing. I measured from center hub to the fender and have about 19.5" on the fronts, and 21" on the back.

Shopping on 1st gen offroad, I've been considering the bil 5100's/2885 springs, bil 5100 rears, freedom offroad uca's, icon 1.5" AAL set, and the maxx swaybar links (not sure if i need these). It all totals just shy of $1500.

This is my first time lifting anything, just checking to see if im missing something or if there are better routes to go? I'm not opposed to dropping down to 285/75/16's, if those tend to work better for clearance issues.

This truck will not see any major offroading or anything, just spicing it up a little.

 

A 285/70/17 and 285/75/16 are pretty much the same size tires. Give a take a little bit to account for tread patterns and tires that run a little under size and tires that run a little over size. With that said the benefit with the 17s also is you have the ability to do the big brake upgrade.

suspension wise looks like you have all your bases covered. I personally did the sway bar links on mine and my wife’s sequoia.

There’s mixed reviews out there on the freedom off-road Uca’s. Give the JBA’s or SPC’s a look.

you could probably get away with skipping the aal in the rear. My 285’s clear and stuff just fine.

The only issue I see you running into is gonna be the backspacing on those oem wheels. They come with a 5 inch backspace. 285’s on those will run into Uca clearance problems. So you’ll need to consider wheel spacers. 4.5 backspace works well on these trucks after a lift

 

Extended swaybar links are worth doing, they really don't cost that much. Look into Suspension Maxx. More info here with part number.

Yes, this, and also note: SPC arms are re-sold by Eibach and Mevotech for considerably (up to 50%) less money. More info here, scroll up two replies and you'll see I paid $484 for my Eibach-boxed SPC UCAs from Elite Race Fab, and had a great transaction with them. Highly recommended vendor. The $300-400 you'll save this route will cover your extended links, possibly even AAL if you need later.

I agree, Totally agree! 2885s should get just about level, maybe a little high up front until after everything settles. The new 5100s out back will also be lifting up the rear, which is probably sagging. May end up with a slight bit of squat at first, after install. OP can always buy AAL later if things aren't where desired by 3-4wks after.

 

So even without the AAL's in the back, the 2885's won't be overkill? I'm also not opposed to the dobinson springs at all, or even the full eibach lift kit. I like that ditching the AAL's helps me increase my UCA budget. I did already have the suspension maxx links in my list as well.

I like the idea of sticking with my stock wheels, but if there's clearance issues with the UCA and tires, is it better to spend money on spacers or just new wheels in general? I'm completely clueless on how backspacing and offset and all that works.

 

I also noticed the pair of Bilstein 5125's for the rear is actually cheaper than the 5100's. Would that be a better route?

 

Can’t ever have too much overkill.

FWIW, I started off hunting for a very mild lift and wound up where I am. On two trucks I’ve dealt with squat trouble. I really dislike it. But I can see doing the front first so you have a very clear idea of how much you need in the back. I’d just make sure you have that budgeted

 

On a double cab, no, 2885 won't be overkill. It'll get you to level, but your suspension will settle, sometimes you'll ride high.

Look, I can't recommend enough for you to read "Suspension, wheel and tires ..." section in this thread. actually, you may just want to grad a drink and read the whole damn thread, actually. It'll probably answer a lot of questions you have and open your eyes to stuff.

And yes, Josh @ 1stGenOffroad is really helpful. If you have a double cab, he'll steer you right on suspension stuff, you're lucky, Double Cab basically Sequoia with a bed, which is similar to other Toyota SUVs in weight and height, so ... it's almost like lifts were designed for them. It's us access/regular cab guys who get boned.

If you're worried about getting the right height, you may want to consider coilovers. You can get good quality front coilovers for under $1k.

 

Awesome, y'all have given me a great basis on where to start. I'll definitely read up on that thread you linked.

Thanks again for all the help everyone

 

I’ll speak on the wheels since @shifty` linked you the mega suspension thread. I’ve been down the coilover rabbit hole man it’s alot

anyways back to the wheels, spacers versus new wheels is a matter of preference. The lower backspace the further out from the hub you’ll be. Sweet pot for these trucks seems to be around 4.5 inches of backspacing. I’d had 285s with that backspace, coilovers (think leveling kit), with little to no rub. My wife’s sequoia is running 4.75 backspace, 0 offset, 275/70/17s, coil overs. It’s got a little frame rub when you cut it deep but nothing major.

 

So 4.5" of backspacing pushes the wheel towards the outside of the truck, whereas higher, in my case 5", keeps the wheel centered closer hub?

Are there any common oem Toyota rims with this ideal 4.5" backspacing, or are those mainly aftermarket?

Also, would say a 1.5" spacer basically turn my 5" backspace wheel into a 3.5"? I'm guessing the wheel would stick out past the fender slightly?

 

*4.5 backspace, 0 offset, 285/75/16s, 1.25 spidertrax. In total is 3.25 backspace. Had to flatten my pinchwelds, trim the front bumper, and my flares are still off needing to be trimmed.

if you go with 1.5 spacer that’s gonna be aggressive stance. It’ll look good

This is 4.5 backspace 0 offset, setting flush with the flares. Very minimal trimming


5th gen wheel 4Runner wheels are probably the closet oem wheel with those specs but I’m pretty sure they all have a positive offset which raises the backspace. Like for example when we bought the sequoia it had trd off-road 4Runner wheels, but also had a trail gear 3/4 inch spacer to clear with the 275’s.

spidertrax offers a 1.25 spacer for our trucks. You also have bora who offers to build custom spec spacers

 

Here is what my wheels look like. Not much poke.

 

Thanks so much for the pictures, this helps a lot. I think I definitely want at least flush with the flares.

 

Important to note here: The mechanics on your double cab will be different than what @daveeasa posted with his regular cab. My access cab results will match @daveeasa's result, because the framesets are basically the same.

Point being: Judge what you'll get based on what other double cab drivers have experienced. Like, whatever @alb1k and @abcinv are rocking on their trucks will be similar to what you'll find on yours.

 

If you're wanting Toyota like wheels that at good quality check out FN Wheels. I don't remember what the Toyota price was versus the FN price in the pro wheels everyone seems to like but he has different offsets, backspacing and width sizes available with the same wheels essentially. Some of the wheels are Toyota specific and he has a first 1gt so he has an idea of what your looking for etc. Seems super knowledgeable guy. The wheels I bought were 4.5 bs iirc and that was something I needed because of my set up.

 

I really like methods at 17x8.5 0mm offset at 4.75 backspace. I could not rub anything with 275/70/17. When I went to 285/75 I spaced and cut everything over time. If you want nice poke that is subtle and do not want to reinvent your wheel wells, 275/70/17 is the biggest with my wheels IMO. When you drop a front wheel in a hole off-road on a turn, a taller tire is going to touch and then some on a DC.

If you are doing anything 285, you probably want 4.5 or better backspace to try to avoid spacers. I run 3/4" steel spacers currently. As soon as you space for frame rub, you add front and rear rub potential on turns.

I've only found my true limits on the 285s off road. If yours is for mostly street and some campground road, everything is more forgiving in respect to size.

 

Thanks for the advice. I checked out the link that Hi06silver listed and they had some nice wheels that would be perfect, without needing spacers. I may go that route.

The truck is definitely just going to be a pavement princess, although my family owns a large ranch, I don't plan on getting off the trails at all. I think with 17s I definitely won't get anything larger than 285/70s. Although the look of the 16's is really growing on me, and I'd do 285/75s.

 

I just got some 285/70/17 with 2 inch lift, how do I eliminate frame rub on the passenger side?

 

I really wish I could drive to Erik’s w my ‘02 and have him tell me everything I need to adjust.

 

On my setup I test fit some aluminum spacers. I tried 1.25" and that took care of frame rub, but the new wheel radius was running the tires into the wheel wells on turns/bumps. The 3/4" spacers ended up being the best balance, only barely touching the frame at full lock and bump. Once I was set on the size I ordered steel spacers im 3/4" and have been running those with great success.

 

The hard part is somethings won't show up until you get in the dirt and hammer it. Like the horrible noise of shot body mounts allowing your cab to bash the slider mounts.

 

I replaced those (in theory, never checked that they look new).

I replace parts before I have a problem. Because I have problems (of the mental variety)

I run 285/75R16 and I’m not keen enough to know where I rub.

 

After I ordered my new ones, I found out the rear #3 position and the mid #2 position were the same fit but the rears are way heavier duty (DC but I'm thinking AC is the same). I would recommend to anyone to order rears for mid and rear positions if they are replacing them. The front ones (#1 position) are different and smaller diameter/design.

 

So theres no chance without spacers? I have the same wheel setup, 17x8.5 4.75 backspace 0mm offset. Im just on the fence about spacers with the stress on the suspension. Its either that or I go down to 275/70/17...

 

If you are rubbing frame you should feel it in the steering wheel at full lock and see shine on the frame where the paint has been polished off. Anywhere else, what you are doing when it rubs should be a clue. Likely the liners and that is usually loud, but get your head in there and look for shiny/clean/rubbed spots. They will be easily visible if you look carefully. And, put one side of the truck on a jack stand that is under the frame near the front. Take off the front wheel and take out the coilover. Put the wheel back on and jack that side suspension up under the LCA until the weight of the truck on that side is on the bump stops. spin your wheel and turn the steering to see the close or contact points of the tire. Know that the bumps will compress a bit more in use than static weight compresses them.

 

I don't think 285s have a chance at that offset without spacers (On a DC anyway). I couldn't make my 275/70/17s touch anything on those same wheels. And my truck was way faster with them. The 285/75 have given me more clearance, but shit I have worked hard to fit them for heavy use. And I am giving away a touch of up travel now.

 

Which ones did you get?

$109 ENERGY SUSPN Energy Suspension 8.4109G Body Mount Set-Reg, Access & Dbl Cab

This is the set I got.

 

Damn that sucks. So the 285s I have now are 45lbs a piece. The 275s would be 52lbs a piece (LT tire). Do you think I would have more power with the smaller yet heavier tire?

 

I put OEM in there - But I would rather have those, I didn't realize Energy made them. Might have to place an order...

 

The tire diameter will be the torque/speed factor with weight that close in my opinion. I don't know the weights, but at 275/70/17 I ran sub 8 seconds 0-60 with 4.88 gears. Thats fast for a truck and a lot of cars. Probably at 10 seconds now on 285/75/17.