Front CV Boot

Hello thread

Is it possible to change a front CV boot without removing the whole cv axel if I only remove the hub?

Also, what is the correct name for the boots that are before the tie rod ends?

Thanks in advance.

 

Rack & pinion bellows?

 

See car care nut vid->https://youtu.be/YH5Cf7uJV5Y

 

I was about to do this when I saw this on mine, but then I wiped off the excess grease and it hasn’t done it again. No rips or cracks on mine and the clamp’s holding up great, so your situation may be different, but just wanted to give my two cents:

 

Having trouble uploading a pic this morning, but imagine a CV boot with a lot of grease slung out.

 

i just rebuilt two cv axles for my trucks. what you are de3scribing is technically possible, but not easier. the easiest way to do this is remove the cv axle from the truck and replace BOTH boots.

a cv boot kit is OEM part number 04438-0C020
Available here

 

Worth also noting, the axle clamp tool ... Toyota p/n 09521-24010 but I'd recommend picking up one of the higher-rated generic ones on scAmazon fleaBay for 1/10th the cost (fleaBay's median price for the same brands on this tool is 40% less than scAmazon)

OEM tool is like $200, you can get a replica for $25-30.

Link: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=09521-24010&_sacat=0

 

Trying again

 

Am I crazy or is the problem simply that you're missing a clamp?

If so, the solution is easy. Re-pack the boot w/appropriate grease, and clamp the boot.

It appears to me you're slinging right at the seam, which would make sense if you don't have a clamp.

 

I'd just replace the clamp and run it. There's a ton of grease in there and not much has leaked out.

You can also try tightening the clamp just a little bit.

 

@shifty` @rock climber
It’s on there and tight, just greasy! Confused the heck out of my two buddies when it was on the lift, both very experienced Toyota off-road enthusiasts and mechanics.

 

Twice now, I've been party to cutting an axle core because no one present could work out how to remove the clamp that's encased within the articulating end component. Hang on, pics coming:
Here it is, cut. Basically, until we cut it, this spline portion was encased inside the articulating component that the boots fit over. So we could reach one clip and removed it, but not the other.

I understand there has to be a way, but none of us could "see" it. Has anyone got pics or a detailed description?


Here, to better illustrate what I'm talking about, is the new extended axle core just before we pushed the rebuilt end back on. Once the clip marked with orange was inserted, there's no access we could see for any tool to unfasten that clip. We had removed the other clip, marked with purple, but since we could not access the other, located inside, we couldn't remove the core.



@shifty` how/where does that tool you posted work?

 

Look at the video @chugs posted above. Skip to 22m30s. He shows the Toyota tool at 23m00 even. Then he goes into usage.

It's not used for what you're talking about. Is it possible one is a compression clip, where you need to slide a sleeve over the clip, then slide the splined piece out?

 

Thanks for all the help.

Anyone know the part number for the cap that covers the front axel not. Probably gonna have to "gently" persuade mine to come off.

 

This thread will help you look it up. https://www.tundras.com/threads/howto-use-the-toyota-parts-system-to-find-order-parts.113808/

It should be in the Brakes and Suspension area of the parts stuff, under Front Axle and Hub. The part listed for my truck is 9033933003 if I'm understanding you right, but may not be the same as yours.

 

Thank you. I was looking the suspension section and couldnt find it.

 

I just updated my reply, see if the extra content helps.

 

I'll post the part no so its in a thread

Wheel Bearing Dust Cap (Left, Right, Front) - Toyota (43514-28010)

Anyone got a good oem parts supplier on the west coast?

 

Thank you very much Mr. Shifty.

 

The Toyota Parts system will actually link you with a local participating dealership based on your zip code when you go to add it to cart.

Just know, I've got 5 dealerships near me. Two of them give almost 20% discount if I buy it through the parts system. The other two give about 5% and 10% off respectively. The 5th one charges full MSRP.

If you didn't already check to see, try a few dealerships near you and see what you can get nearby. Just don't buy on scAmazon or fleaBay, you'll probably get a very authentic looking, but very counterfeit, part.

 

I've heard of this before. I noodled on the issue of the irremovable outer cv joint and gave up. Inner joint comes off no problem though. (one snap ring that is contained in the outer cv jount)

 

i used a tool similar to what @rock climber mentioned, seemed to work good, we will see

 

Totally. That tool is what I've used on similar clamps in the past, but apparently may not get them tight enough to OEM spec? I dunno.

I admittedly haven't (knock on wood) had to touch any of my boots. YET. Up until recently, I didn't even realize the damn boot straps weren't re-usable.

 

It really wasnt as big of a job as i expected. 4 boots, and fresh paint took me about 3 hours

 

There's a way to pull a new boot over without removing the whole thing. I did it on a Sienna once.

The right way is to redo the joint or replace it. I did this on '98 4runner. I chose to buy a new one so I'd have a spare, if/when I ever got around to repacking the old one.

 

Mine is similar looks like no clamp but pretty sure it's common on lifted to sling some after lift, iirc from reading.
Is this one of those times the op should check his front diff/ axles to maybe look into ECGS mod maybe? if it'll be half way there already... probably what I'm gonna do eventually

 

I finally cleared some minutes to look at this video yesterday, and figured out I've not been clear with my question.

This video shows boot replacement using the OEM axle core... basically, did not disassemble the "inside" end of the axle.

I've replaced my OEM axle cores with extended length cores from Total Chaos. So we had to remove both of the articulating end portions from the OEM core and use them + the new TC core to build a new axle. TC's instructions are to cut the OEM core... maybe because there's really no way to disconnect this "inside" portion due to the "hidden" retention clip.

Does anyone (reading in future, maybe) know a way to completely dismantle an OEM axle without cutting the core? As parts for our trucks become increasingly rare, it breaks my heart that I've already cannibalized three of these.

 

I need to figure out what height my Billsteins are set to up front, have never looked; perhaps PO did bumped it up late in the game (after really not having done much of anything other than change oil)? The grease slung out of mine was very "fresh," not all caked with dirt and junk, and didn't have that creeping staining of the crossmember like you'd expect from something that'd been there awhile, and I don't remember seeing it when I crawled under when considering purchasing it. Anyway, thanks OP for letting me borrow your post.