2 10’s or 2 12’s…

There are plenty of boxes out there. Taco Tunes comes to mind then there is this one. pretty cheap only $144.00

$145 SoundBox Dual 12" Subwoofer Enclosure for Tundra CrewMax 2014-2019

https://www.amazon.com/SoundBox-Cre...mzn1.fos.f5122f16-c3e8-4386-bf32-63e904010ad0

 

You should really think about putting some grills on those drivers before you trash them. They are obviously hitting the bottom of the seats and are wearing down the drivers surrounds. They won't last much longer unless you do do something to prevent that from happening. Just saying. JL makes grills for their subs. Check with Crutchfield. They are probably the only thing JL sells that isn't expensive.

 

10’s vs 12’s… the answer is simple and contrary to what most have said. What sounds best is what fits in the space you have, not which size the cone is.

Subwoofers have two limiting factors: Xmax and RMS power (well, peak power, but that’s often misleading and is really meant for you to be able to run a clipped signal from your amp and have the speaker voice coil survive - literally that’s what peak power rating is for - so ignore it and stick to RMS power). Exceed one of those and you have reached the usefulness and output limits of the driver. Cone area and sensitivity (watts in vs db out) are typically higher for larger speakers, but Xmax also factors in to total swept area or displacement. So you can have a smaller driver with higher Xmax or sensitivity displace more air and produce more bass than a larger diver. Rated RMS power is also helpful to achieve higher spl levels with less power and typically less cone excursion (which can have effect on lowering distortion), but at the cost of low bass sensitivity.

That said, NONE of it matters if you put the sub in the wrong box. Shoe horn two twelves in to a box meant for a single 10 and you will get a crazy high system Q (not a good thing) with a large peak in the response and abysmal low bass response as that falls off dramatically below the system Q resonance peak. The air in the box acts as a spring and damps the woofer; too little air is like too short of leaf spring - it is incredibly stiff and damps the cone excursion too much. Cone excursion is necessary to produce bass and more excursion is necessary to deeper bass. This is why the system with two twelves has lots of output up high but nothing down low.

Put that single 10 in the same box and it will not only meet the output of the two 12’s everywhere but the resonance peak, but exceed it down low (to the box and drivers design limits, anyways).

As long as the driver has a decent motor design, cone size is almost irrelevant for anything but total swept area. That total swept area can be used in two ways: high SPL or lower bass extension. Punch, kick, slam, boom, etc are all elements of system design, not inherent characteristics of driver size.

For example, I run a single shallow 12 in my truck off of 300 watts in my truck. It has a peaking response in 1 cu ft, but that peak is perfectly targeted to create a flat uniform response in the vehicle due to cabin gain all the way down to 25 hz. I used to run an 8” sub in a tiny sealed box (appropriate to the driver) that kept up with the 12 above 45 hz because it was rated higher in sensitivity, but lacked below 45hz because it lacked swept area due to lower cone size.

I also have a 7” driver with more Xmax than either of those two subs; in a vented box sized between the 8 and 12” enclosure, it will easily hand it to either of those two drivers - at least until 30 hz or power levels above 200 watts rms. (The difference between 200 and 300 watts is only 1.5 db). As for the motor design on the 7” sub, it is much more advanced undergoing dual gap design that allows better use of the input power and more linear control through the excursion, producing clean CLEAN bass that a 7” driver shouldn’t do… I’m planning on a quarter of them on 1000 rms

Now, let’s contrast that little 7” driver to the 15” driver I use in my home theater. It has an 8” voice coil and is rated for 2500 watts RMS with 45mm of Xmech. It is a lower sensitive driver as far as 15” drivers go, but is more efficient in the low bass region. It flat mops the floor with any driver that I’ve ever used, including the 18” driver I used to use. And it will do it any enclosure from 1.5 cu ft sealed to 4 cu ft vented, to an 8-12 cu ft LLT tuned to 13 hz. I’ve fed it 1500 watts RMS and ut just laughs while knocking light fixtures off my wall. And it’s CLEAN. All the way down to 15hz.

So, after all that blathering, pick a driver based on what fits your space, not just what size it is.

 

Another good choice is the Audiomobile Evo 2410. These subs play very low and take a beating. Stereo Integrity is having a special on their new sub BM -11 for $399 shipped. In my opinion the JL10TW3, Audiomobile Evo 2410, and the SI BM-11 are the shallow subs to beat.

 

Yeah talking to more people about it on here I think I’ve decided to go the 2 10” route rather than the 2 12” I originally wanted. Sounds like with the limited space I’ll have behind the seats I will get more out of 10’s for sure

 

Just talking with my friend and others on the forum here, I feel like I would probably get more out of 2 10’s in a sealed box after all just with the limited space. I posted something yesterday on this thread showing what I am currently looking at (subs/box, still looking at amps so if you have a suggestion lmk. Rn the kicker CX1200.1 looks ok, couldn’t find anything on D4S that seemed to match the subs I’m looking at well)

also I have heard from several people on here to avoid taco tunes…I did see the box you posted but when a bunch of people warn me about a company I try to listen

 

Take a look at tech12volts
https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/

He has set ups that are already optimized for the tundra. He makes awesome boxes (I have one). And his boxes are sealed inside with resin unlike cheaper boxes out there. He has amps with dsp in them or without and he has options for subs as well. If you buy the package it will come tuned for you and there isn’t really much guess work involved. I purchased some equipment from him and he was great to work with.

I wound up with rf dsr1 to minidsp 8x12dl to 2 sundown sdx 100.4 amps on front stage and 1200.1 to 2 stereo integrity bm12 mk5.
Stereo integrity tm65 in doors (have tm8s on the way) and stereo integrity tweets in dash. However because I am going to 8s in the front doors I bought some infinity kappa 203s for dash and infinity kappa 3/4 tweets for sail panel.
Dsp makes all the difference in the world for systems.
I have the jbl system and kept the head unit.
All that to say James at tech12volts can get you a full system that’s basically plug and play. No need to cut or fabricate anything.

 

I vote for 4 full size 12s with an unmodified rear seat. Yes, it is possible.

 

Yeah yeah I know already lol

 

Not in a 2018 CM.

 

So sad.
Rear bench seat on rails was one best old features. Even better than Tow Hooks and Oh Sh!t handles that were phased out.

 

Btw I had the 12volt sundown system and it was legit, swapped it for a couple different setups , but was never satisfied. I need to be able to turn the knob and make all my mirrors fall down.

 

Looks like this JL amp could work well for the 2 kicker comp Rt 10’s I’m looking at? Slightly higher than the combined 800w @ 2 ohms so I shouldn’t put too much stress on the amp. What do y’all think?
https://www.jlaudio.com/products/jd1000-1-car-audio-amplifiers-98363

 

Disclaimer, I read post #1 and skipped to the end.

I have this kit installed but at the time, PG didn't have 10s so I got a free upgrade to 12s. I'm running this off of the factory head unit in a non JBL, sealed box.

https://www.shop.tech12volts.com/product.sc?productId=586&categoryId=124

I'm sure I would have been happy with 10s but these 12s absolutely bump. I'm very happy with the setup.

 

I can’t for the life of me figure out why they stopped doing this. Makes no sense. I didn’t realize they stopped putting that rear seat in the 2.5 gen tundra.

 

If I had the room I would have loved to run my old JL 10w7. My 4Runner was super loud with great sound quality! Miss my old system sometimes. Definitely wish the rear crewmax seats still slid forward!

 

Been looking at the Audiomobile Evo 2410’s a bit, just don’t know if they are worth double the price that the kickers are. Still doing some research on them but as of rn I think the kickers are still my first choice.

 

This was a feature available in the CrewMax or just the double cab? It certainly would have been nice to get an additional 1-1/2" of extra space back there. It would have made a big difference. I was contemplating making modifications to the seat rails to move the seats forward a bit but the steal that the rails are made of is hardened high carbon steal and it takes a lot of effort and a bunch of drill bits to even drill a small hole in the stuff so I was like , No thank you. I was able to gain a small bit of clearance needed to keep the seats from resting on the speaker grills by inserting 1/4" plate washers in between the frame of the seat and the seats mounting rails at the rear mounting bolts. This tilted the seat up and forward just enough to give me the clearance I needed but not enough to notice when sitting in them or enough to create a hazardous situation for my rear passengers by compromising the structural integrity of the connection.

 

If you don't mind paying out the wazoo then the JL amp will work just fine but so will this one for $179.00 USD.

Regardless of which amp you choose just be aware of the OHM load of the speakers. You need to pay attention to whether the speakers you are looking at are single or dual voice coil. For instance 2- 10" brand X subs that are 4 ohm dual voice coil will get you to 1ohm when everything is wired in parallel <or> 4ohms when wired in series/parallel <or> 16 ohms when wired in series. But there is NO way of wiring this example to 2 ohms. This example would be a perfect setup for use with the amp I linked to wired to 1 ohm but NOT a good choice to use with the JL Audio amp because it isn't rated to 1 ohm and should not be used at 1 ohm. You would be stuck wiring your subs to 4 ohms and then the amp would not be able to output enough power to drive the RT's. If your goal is to have your subs wired to 2 ohms the I would suggest two 4ohm single voice coil versions.

Just something to bare in mind.

 

That wasn't the Taco Tunes box I linked to. It was a box I found on Amazon. There is a 10" version as well. Nothing to do with Taco Tunes at all. They did however look as if they where a decent box though and worth taking a look at.

 

Sound quality for a subwoofer is defined by having a natural, even output without distortion or other artifacts. For most drivers that is easiest achieved by putting the driver in an enclosure that creates a 0.703 Qtc and that won't be possible with those in an under seat enclosure.
But car audio is defined by different parameters due to the confines of the listening environment and how a driver effectively couples to that with cabin gain and other boundary loading parameters that are not easily modeled in software.
One thing that remains constant though is that cone area is king and the more of it you have, the more control you have over the output and bandwidth to create the curve you desire. I'll just leave that here.

 

What driver are you referring to?

 

Sorry I read that wrong that does look like a good box to consider, thanks for linking it!

 

From what I’ve seen I should be able to wire the 10” kickers comp RT’s @2Ohms, but correct me if I’m wrong (2 DVC 2Ohm subs wired in series parallel) but correct me if I’m wrong.
But if that is correct then I could run them at 2Ohms final impedance and the JL amp should work fine.(also if I’m correct and I can run 2 DVC2ohm @2ohm, is there a reason you suggested SVC@4ohm? Like is it safer to run SVC at 2Ohms or something? Or were you just saying it would be easier to run those subs?)
If I’m wrong, then I could go with the D4S amp you linked and find subs that are SVC@4ohm like you said…
I’m just weary of running at 1ohm, I’ve heard that will have the sub running super hot. But maybe I was just misinformed

But if higher Ohms is safer to run, I could also opt for the DVC 4Ohm option of the kicker subs and get this amp that has 800@4ohms by scar (I’ve heard decent things about scars subs, don’t know too much about their amps. Only bringing this up as you brought up the price of the JL amp and this is 1/2 the price)
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/rp-2000-1d-car-amplifier

 

That's what I thought you where talking about. That's the Peerless 15" correct? That's a real beast of a sub. I've been looking for an excuse to make a powered sub with one of those for a while. Something like an Icepower or Purfi plate amp, but I have no place to put it. When you said there was a 8" voice coil this is the driver that came to mind.

 

dual voice coil subs have two voice coils so if they are 4 ohm then you have two voice coils each are 4 ohms. So you wire each sub parallel then wire both subs together parallel and you end up with a net ohm load of 1 ohm You can run a one ohm load with that amp all day long and it will be fine. Unless you are running a continues sinewave through the subs or just maxing them out for extended periods of time the subs will be fine it is usually the amps that get hot running 1 ohm but this amp is well built with a solid heat sink and an internal fan and I have had no problems running this same amp at 1 ohm in my truck.

 

Two 10's.

 

Nice. Super clean. What else did you install? Do you have a build thread? I wouldn't mind checking it out. Here is mine if you are interested..

https://www.tundras.com/posts/3154326/

 

Looks awesome man! Could you give more details about your setup? (The subs/amp, the box, anything else you want to mention)