Brake bleeding woes

Having issues now that I've installed new SS lines on front. I've bled brakes within the last 1.5 years due to faulty Toyota caliper and didn't have any issue bleeding with the 2 person old school method. Well, yesterday I went to bleed using a bottle filled with new fluid with hose submerged etc. Everything seemed fine but couldn't get a good pedal afterwards. When I tried to start again this morning trying with a 2x4 jammed between the seat and pedal to simulate another person holding their foot, I went to crack the passenger rear bleeder and the pedal held. But it looks like fluid was coming out slowly from the little oval area on the back of the backing plate where the two fittings bleeder and line go to back of drum.
Does this point to a bad wheel cylinder back there?
First bleed went: RR-lsvp-LR-RF-LF making sure to not allow the Master cylinder not to get low. I did have quite the flow of fluid purge out of lsvp bleeder. Not sure if that matters.

 

Sounds like a bad wheel cylinder to me

 

Strongly recommend a Schwaben pressure bleeder. Do yourself a favor; it's worth every penny and it's the most effective way to bleed your brakes: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/3-liter-european-pressure-brake-bleeder/007237sch01a/

 

There are a few members here including me who have the Speedi-bleed with Toyota reservoir fitting.
Same concept I think. I bled all 5 points in 20 minutes solo using it.
https://www.speedibleed.com/k800b-toyota-lexus-brake-bleeder-kit.html

 

Did this require an adapter for Toyota? All it's says is European cars...

 

Did you try bleeding with the truck running?

The assist with the booster working makes a big difference in the amount of fluid pushed through the lines.

 

I did 1x. But when I crack the passenger rear it's starts leaking around where the cylinder mates to the backing plate. Everything I've read says not to do that.

 

I always bleed my brakes with the truck running. Not even sure how you do it with the truck off because after a few pumps the brake pedal barely moves.

 

Makes sense. I've always done it with two people also with truck off. I don't think it would matter at this point. Would it hold pressure to get a good pedal with this bad cylinder? My logic says probably not but I'm not a real wrencher. I'm gonna pull that drum later and inspect.
According to my Toyota order the parts aren't moving yet so don't know when I'll get to replace it. Guess I'll just inspect, clean up the rears and wait.

 

I wonder if the bleeder valve is clogged.

 

The pressure bleeders do need a universal adaptor for Japanese cars (because european cares have a screw-on mastercylinder (m/c) cap. Both companies sell them. I found the Schwaben easier to use because it's self contained, while the EZ-bleed brand needs to be connected to a tire for air pressure.

The benefit of pressure bleeding is that it's the only effective one-person way to bleed your brakes. It's worth buying for that reason alone. In addition to that, it provides constant, uniform pressure which allows you to continue to bleed unitl the line is clear (i.e., keep the bleeder nipple open as long as you want). You can't do that by pumping the pedal; you can only do short burst. Little bubles can be trapped upstream that will never come out if you can only open the nipple for short burts. Additionally, it's very common to push the brake pedal beyond normal travel when you are bleeding (even to the floor). By doing that you push the m/c piston seals beyond the normal wear portion of the m/c cylinder bore. And by doing that you risk damaging the piston seals, so don't be surprised if you need a new master cylinder in a few months. If your only option is to pump the pedal, at least put a 2x4 under the pedal so the person helping you doesn't push it to the floor.

P.s.- for what it's worth, my brakes never felt right until I pressure-bled the crap out of my rear lines. We all struggle with weak brakes on these trucks, so the incremental benefit in brake feel after pressure bleeding was worth the $70 purchase price. I can't recommend it enough.

 

I suppose it could be, I should try a pick may be small vacuum attachment. I'd think air would push anything farther in...

 

Makes sense with the constant pressure. I'll see if I can get lucky and they sell something in town and then hopefully the bleeder is just clogged and seeping around the nipple/ hose and making it look like it's coming from the cylinder. At that point I just bought new cylinders and springs etc. For a rainy day !