Undercoating necessary?

Just purchased a Platinum just curious if its needed ?

Thanks

 

agreed, depends where you live. I had mine coated by Krown last year and will continue to get it treated every year.

 

I'm a little more hands on. I use fluid film to coat it. Dont like the idea of using epoxy paints to protect from rust.
Fluid film is an oil that coats the underside. Two cans is more than enough.

Used it on my 13 Tacoma for years. When I went into Toyota service for frame warranty check they were surprised at how well it looked.
Not to mention I am in NY and they LOVE to use salt / sand mix on the roads when it gets cold out.

 

Fluid Film and PB Blaster brand has a Surface Shield corrosion protection film also which I prefer.

 

I am doing FF on my Tundra after my Tacoma rust experience. We'll see if I can keep it up and how well I am able to cover it. It would be really nice to do this on a real lift instead of on the ground or jackstands but I don't have one.

 

I was going to go the FluidFilm/WoolWax route but was running short on time before winter and decided to have it done at Krown. It's more expensive but they did a really good job so I'll just stick with them doing it.

 

Yes The state of Indiana uses some sort of alien acid blood for salt. I had my truck ziebart'ed and undercoated. Now, you pay once and get the yearly refreshing of both coatings for free.

 

Brine. Most states use this stuff now. They spray the roads in advance of the dump and it dries to keep snow and ice from sticking to the pavement. In theory, or at least for awhile. Here we can see the traces down the road left by the spray trucks, at least until the snow comes. Not sure what all goes into this stuff but surely salts of some sort.

 

Its straight prune juice in BC. Has a very low freeze rate

 

Looks like the brine here is just a mix of salt and water. I was guessing there might be some other salts but the article mentions only sodium chloride.

Maryland Increases Alternatives to Road Salts to Advance Environmental and Transportation Goals

 

Brine is common in Atlantic Canada, as is road salt in general, because of the continuous freeze-thaw cycles.

Fluid Film is used, but Krown is by far the most popular. My preference is FF, but both seem to do a good job. It must be said that it also matters how careful and thorough the person is in applying the stuff. I'd take a good job with Krown over a poor one with FF.

 

I'm in New England, traveling up to northwestern Maine for offroading often. Winter conditions are pretty much the same like in ON and QC (south parts of). I sprayed my new 2019 with Noxudol 700 cavity wax (inside the frame channels) and 1600 everywhere else. It holds up very well. Sprayed wife's new 2022 Sequoia, too. The only chance for rust to form under Noxudol is Toyota's contaminated weld seams: they rust internally and nothing you can do about that.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/noxudol-pros-and-cons.349923/
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rust-inhibitor-treatment.346218/

Noxudol is a Swedish stuff, it is used by Volvo at assembly line, which knows quite a bit about winters and rust prevention.

I recommend 1600 instead of 300 undercoating they used on BITOG. On my Volvo undercoating was gone in one trip to Trans-Taiga. 1600 resists gravel pretty well, if you apply it in a few thick layers.

 

Beet Juice in Manitoba.

 

I did corrosion free on my tundra, but didn’t find an installer down here so hit Newmarket to find one last fall. Did you find one down S/W Ont?

 

I was very happy with the coverage Woolwax provided when I used it on my Jeep Wrangler (known for being rust buckets). I plan on doing the same with my Tundra to keep the undercarriage looking new.

 

Locally, Canadian Tire in Winnipeg does it. I wouldn't trust the CT monkeys with my tires, let alone rust proofing or drilling holes to spray.

I do mine myself with a compressor and the gun. I'm guessing I don't do a good as job as a pro installer would, but it's cheaper, I can reapply in my driveway and it's better than doing nothing (like our previous vehicles).

 

The fluid film is in a spray can. (they do make a liquid if you spray) For me, two cans and you can get that stuff all over the place.
I wouldnt do it on the driveway though as the stuff that drips can leave a mark.
Doing it on grass is fine and can be easily done without lifting the truck.

 

I have used fluid film and wool wax black. I have the fluid film spray gun that hooks up to a compressor and do it myself in my driveway and it does work well. I do 2 car with a 1 gallon paint can of the FF and then I will use the rattle cans to do touch up here and there.

Just be aware, working on the car afterwards sucks. Everything is oily. Also, dust and dirt will be stuck to everything.

But the frame will look mint.

Also, after applying it I do not heavily wash the underside of the car. I dont use a pressure washer or soap as I do not want to wash off the film. I will just rinse it with a regular low pressure hose if I do wash it.

 

+1 for Woolwax....I've used PB Blaster Surface Shield for a couple touchups

 

I live in New England the roads get rocksalt and some other liquid shit for the winter so the dealership is going to apply something new to me called waxoil from what they said anything that doesn't move,rotate or spin will get coated.
Let's see how it holds up off roading on the beaches...

 

After having mine coated by Krown it dripped for at least two weeks! The mess was crazy. But they assured me that if it was on concrete it would wash away after a few good rains, but if it was asphalt it would stain it permanently. I have a concrete driveway, I was worried it would stain with how much was dripping so I power washed the driveway after about a week. You could still see the spots a little and the truck still continued to drip a little. But after 4-5 good rains you couldn't see the spots anymore. Not sure about the other products but that is my experience with Krown.

 

When I had mine coated by Krown I asked them about washing the undercarriage and they said to wait a week for the fluid to creep into areas and fully coat before washing the undercarriage. They said it would take a very high PSI rating to remove it and at that PSI it would remove paint so it would be safe to power wash with a regular power washer and nozzle, I have a wheeled attachment that has 4 sprayers that angle up to clean under the truck, works pretty good.

 

I honestly feel that any of the popular products on the market (FluidFilm, WoolWax, Surface Shield, Krown, Corrosion Free, etc.) will do a great job as long as they are applied properly.

 

That sounds similar to the treatment Toyota applied to my Tacoma for that frame recall. For some frames that weren't too bad they coated them instead of replacing them. That stuff dripped for a couple of weeks during which I parked it out on the street. Seemed to work well.

 

It means it washes away from truck in the same time frame. I think it's a part of their business model that customers are hooked forever and need to reapply it regularly.

 

Interesting DIY test here. Unfortunately doesn't include Corrosion Free 3000. Krown did not fare well.

Real World Undercoating Test: Fluid Film, NH Oil, Krown and More... - YouTube

 

The dripping was excess fluid, the undercarriage was still plenty coated weeks after application. It's not any one companies business model, all of these rust preventative fluids require reapplication every year.

 

I skimmed through the video, interesting, will have to watch it fully later

 

Yeah, that's the point. I tired re-spraying undercoatings every few months, don't do it anymore with 1600. Not single one undercoating survived through the New England slushy salty winter on my car.

Given the fact OP is in Canada, he'll be seeing the same picture over and over again: rust spreading, despite yearly re-application.