Air injection pump bypass kits: Hewett vs. Rutech

My Tundra is 2005. I already replaced the air injection pump at 160k miles, and now it's going bad again. I know for sure that most aftermarket pumps just don't last. Therefore, I'm heading towards the bypass kits. I searched and found there're Hewett kit and Rutech kit. Does anyone have any experience with them? Which one do you prefer for ease of installation and reliability?

After installing the bypass kit, does the bad pump make a huge noise for the first 20 seconds? How do you cope with that?

 

I went with Slyfox off the 4runner forum.
The system doesn’t allow the pump to start at all, it acts like the right temp is present to not ever run the pumps, the check of the system at all.

 

I just did the Hewitt on the 07 Sequoia, and it was easy and a clean install.

Hewitt is the bigger name I believe in the bypass world.

 

I just read up online, and it says that if you turn the ignition to on, you must start the engine within 10 seconds. Is that the case? How long do you have it in use? Does your Tundra start and run like normal?

 

in the way back..I did the Hewett on my 06 Seq.

never a problem

That thing is still rolling strong with the 2nd owner.


I loved having 12 cupholders....

 

Not sure about the 10 second rule, but mine fires up every single time without any issue and sings like a canary. I’ve had it on my truck for almost a year now probably.
Any of the kits work, I went with sly fox because I didn’t need block off plates and I’ve got a place in my heart for 4Runners, super quick ship with detailed instructions.

 

I've been using the Hewitt bypass kit for a year and a half. Fairly easy install, the hardest part is putting the block plates on. Overall, a solid kit.

After installing the kit, the pump doesn't come back on.

https://hewitt-tech.com/product/secondary-air-injection-system-bypass-kit-gen-2-3-valve/

 

Obviously I have a conflict of interests and my allegiance goes without saying. However, I wanted to provide some additional Secondary Air Injection System resources for everyone runs into this inevitable issue. I will leave it at that and anyone that has additional question do not hesitate to contact us.

What Does the Secondary Air Injection System Do?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-does-the-secondary-air-injection-system-do.113683/

What Do My Secondary Air Injection Error Codes Mean?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-do-my-secondary-air-injection-error-codes-mean.113686/

How to Fix Secondary Air Injection System?
https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-do-you-fix-the-secondary-air-injection-system.113688/

 

I’ve got the Hewitt gen 2 kit on my 06 and would highly recommend it. Splicing into my ecu made me a little nervous but their directions are super detailed and really easy to follow. As usually the block off plates were kinda rough but completely doable. Not to mention some of the cx support I’ve seen them provide on theis forum is pretty impressive

 

Ditto on our 05 Sequoia. Easy install and works great.

 

I think I’ve had it installed almost a year and no issues, it’s also nice not hearing the weird vacuum when it’s cold in the morning

 

Someone needs to make a forced induction module that, like, replaces the manifold and SAIP or something. Replace the frivolous emissions stuff with funtastic non-emissions stuff, all in a simple bolt-on piece.

 

I got a p2445 (pump stuck off bank 1) code last May. I installed the Gen 1 bypass kit but did not install the block off plates due to rusted flange bolts. Two weeks ago I got p0172 and p0175 codes (system too rich). I took the truck to the dealer for a diagnostic and they said the codes are caused by the bypass kit. Hewitt Tech said it may be a result of not installing the block off plates but could also be from a faulty MAF or dirty throttle body. I've already tried cleaning the MAF but that didn't work. This is all starting to get really frustrating. Another guy on a Tundra Facebook forum is dealing with the same issue and he has the Hewitt bypass kit. We're thinking it is the problem. Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

Sounds like installing the block off plates would be a good place to start

 

Get frustrated at the kit or its manufacturer all you want. If you don't follow the install procedure the manufacturer advises, regardless how legit your reasoning is, then you're not using the product as intended, and should not expect it to work as intended.

Pretty sure 'system too rich' = pre-cat O2 sensor is detecting the combustion mixture it sees has too much un-spent fuel or too little oxygen, i.e. your fuel/air ratio isn't correct. Likely because the ECM is seeing more entering the manifold than what is realistic (i.e. bad MAF, not correctly sensing oxygen intake, causing ECM to dump more fuel than what's needed, or bad throttle assembly or throttle position sensor not opening enough to allow all the air the MAF senses into the manifold) or because your O2 levels after combustion are too low when they hit the pre-cat O2, which could be that the combustion mixture is being tainted somewhere post-combustion but pre-cat O2, possibly due to failure to install the blockoffs, messing with airflow.

Give you didn't follow the instructions supplied - we know, it's for good reasons, rusty bolts, and at least one of those plates is a major PITA to install - not installing the plates could create this issue and @weadjust is correct, so is @HewittTech01 staff, you should really install the plates, reset ECM, run through another ECM calibration cycle.

But I would also test your MAF. Do you have a basic multimeter, and have you done a resistance test on your MAF yet? Is your MAF the Toyota/Denso original, and if "YES", how many miles are on the truck? If more than 175k-200k, I'd replace with a Denso unit or Hitachi, since Hitachi was making the Denso unit for Toyota.

If you were only getting "too rich" on one cylinder, I'd probably blame the O2 on this one, on whichever bank was throwing 'too rich', 1 or 2. But given you're getting codes for both banks, the more likely culprit is bad MAF, the throttle body assembly, or the blockoff plates.

Start with the easy test: MAF. Then move onto correcting the part of the install you missed (blockoffs) if MAF tests OK. Remember to disconnect the battery for at least 10-15 minutes to clear the ECM.

 

We must not allow epa tryanny to ruin the 2uzfe powerplant! Oh wait they already did

 

I should be getting a new MAF today from Toyota and will see how it does. I definitely agree that the best way to run the bypass is to install the plates. When I tried doing it last May I started on the passenger side. I soaked the studs on multiple days with penetrating oil and I still managed to snap off the first stud so I stopped there. Hewitt Tech said that some people who brake off all studs are able to keep the flanges together using beam clamps. I may have to try that.

 

@stlmike I understand the frustration and sounds like you have already contacted us about the issue. We appreciate your patience as we troubleshoot and get down to the bottom of what is causing the issue. I will say @shifty` initial guidance is a great place to start. I could not agree more with his recommendation of Hitachi MAF sensor. We see a lot of issues with aftermarket parts and Toyota are pretty picky when it comes to sensors.

There are several different reason that could be causing these codes. Our first step of troubleshooting is always basic tune up items like cleaning MAF, throttle body and running some good fuel injector cleaner with techron. If problem still persists, manufacture recommends replacing MAF every 150K- 175K. If the the vehicles has several thousand miles and MAF has never been replaces that would be the next step. A mentioned above we have also seen O2 Sensor also cause these codes.

Lastly, we need to verify the Purple Starter Relay wire has been installed correctly. I will DM you steps to verify this along with the module. Again, our Products come with a Limited Life-Time Warranty and covers defects in materials or craftsmanship or is found to have failed under normal use and conditions we will repair or replace the faulty unit free of charge for as long as the original buyer owns the vehicle.

Thanks again for patience as we get down to the bottom of this.

 

@HewittTech01 Thanks for the quick reply! I tried cleaning the MAF when it first happened a couple weeks ago and cleared the codes with my scan tool. Everything was fine for 2 weeks and then the codes came back. I ordered a new MAF sensor from Toyota that should be arriving today. I'll be installing that this weekend. I have not looked at the throttle body yet. I really want to get the block off plates put on but I don't feel comfortable trying it myself. I'm hoping to find a shop that will drill the bolts and rethread so that I can put the plates on myself. I will recheck the purple wire but when I installed it the first time I used a multimeter and verified the voltage drop on startup.

I'll keep you informed on my progress. Thanks again. I appreciate your customer service! Every time I've called you all I get through to someone and I really appreciate that.

 

@HewittTech01 I got my truck back from the dealer after they diagnosed. They said the too rich condition was caused by the bypass kit because after they disconnected it my fuel trims were back to normal. I drove it home and have left the bypass disconnected. The truck ran great. The next day the p2445 code came back which was the reason I installed the bypass back in May. Now I'm faced with leaving the bypass off and dealing with the p2445 code or connecting it and dealing with the p0172 and p0175 codes.

 

Mike Thanks for the update. I have sent you a DM and we will get down to the bottom of this.

 

I just Installed the Hewitt Bi pass on my 2005 Tundra. Truck is a Northeast vehicle and those stud nuts on the air tubes were pretty rusty . I wire brushed and used Kroil oil, penetrant and rust dissolver on the nuts for over a week. Then with the tire off i went in and used a torch to heat before removing the nuts and the studs and they still broke. Was P/O and did not even attempt the other side. After looking at how to try and install the block plate I noticed the air tube behind the engine where it attaches to the valves was the same size connection and decided to put the plate there . Small work area, but laying on the motor I could just get behind and reach via the side to the bolts on the other end of the tube. Had to loosen the two 10 mm bolts holding the valve as well to get room to push the plate in between but it worked. Much Much easier and no rusty studs to break . If I knew this was and option i would have went this route to start with. Did not want to even try to remove and drill out the broken studs attached to the exhaust manifold as just more rusty bolts to break. I went with JBL weld high temp putty , the company gave this as option after I contacted them to plug the tube at the manifold end. If your truck is northern and or rust belt you may want to put plates on upper tube at switching valve and avoid the potential of busted studs. So far truck is running and starting fine, no codes or Limp mode. Just an option someone may want to be aware of.

 

Thanks for this, and welcome to the forum!

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/secondary-air-system-sais-replacement-info-and-instructions.90175/
Just going to leave this here. It does have some relevant info to the bypass kits

 

I Hewett bypassed mine four years ago. Install wasn't hard at all. Not a single problem since install. Pump never runs and doesn't make a sound. I don't know anything about the Rutech. My guess is unless someone here has a shop that installs whatever the buyer wants, there's going to be very few people, if any, that have experience with both. My vote's to Hewett bypass it and don't look back.

 

Rutech kit here. I installed it several years ago, the install was trouble-free. Worked fine no issues. Then after a few years, my battery died and after replacing it, I kept getting trouble codes for the SAIS. I emailed and sent my module to Rutech and they replaced it free of charge for me. No issues with the SAIS since then.

 

@dooboo First, we really appreciate you taking the time to leave your experience on the forum. I have no doubt that your post will help customers searching alternatives when installing the Block off Plates.

That said, on the 5.7L and older 4.7L engines layouts you can install the Block off Plates Directly at the Air Switching Valves / Check Valves. However as you mentioned it is pretty tight and may require more specific tool / automotive ingenuity to install. The Flanges are the same size as the ones through the wheel well and yes any vehicle that has spent significant time up north (Harsh winters with salt on the roads) will see rust/corrosion at this location. From our experience most DYI customers will find it easier to work through the wheel well rather than between the engine block and the fire wall. The other alternative would be to remove the intake. Some people avoid that at all costs and others dont even blink at the task.

Thanks again for taking the time to share your install and if there is anything else we can assist with in the future please do not hesitate to contact us.

PS @Baller thanks for the endorsement!

 

I had the gen 2 kit installed on my 2011 Tundra 4.6 V8 with the block plates last week.. It got rid of the original code P0415, BUT now it runs in limp mode with new codes P2443 & P2447 (Neither were there prior to installing the bypass kit) Before installation the codes were for electrical issues, new codes after installation were for mechanical issues??????? HELP!

 

Contact Hewitt's support line. They're really responsive to customers. For now, reset the codes on the truck, having those codes set/stored are what's making the truck stay in limp mode. Simply clearing the codes will take it out of limp mode until they set again.

Also, note you're posting on a thread in the 1st gen 2000-2006 subforum. Solid chance none of the members reading your reply will be able to help with your newer model truck...